Analysis of false waves in numerical sea simulations

[EN] It is common practice to consider the random sea waves as a succession of discrete waves characterized by individual amplitudes and periods. The zero-up-crossing criterion for discretizing waves, as well as other criteria proposed by different authors, has been found to isolate some discrete waves that do not correspond to physical waves. These false waves alter the wave statistics of random sea waves. A new orbital criterion is proposed to avoid this problem. The orbital criterion has been shown to be consistent and robust with respect to the zero-up-crossing criterion. Furthermore, the new criterion produces a distribution of wave heights in better agreement with the Rayleigh distribution. The mean period of the discrete waves corresponding to the orbital criterion is proved to be T01, while the mean period of the zero-up-crossing waves is T02. A formula relating the Longuet-Higgins spectral bandwidth nu with the relative number of false waves is given.Gimenez Valentin, MH.; Sánchez Carratalá, CR.; Medina, JR. (1994). Analysis of false waves in numerical sea simulations. Ocean Engineering. 21(8):751-764. doi:10.1016/0029-8018(94)90050-7S75176421