Influence of Force-Length Relationship and Task-Specific Constraints on Finger Force-Generating Capacities

Grip strength loss in extended and flexed wrist postures has been explained by reduced force-generating capacities of extrinsic finger flexor resulting from non-optimal length, owing to the force-length relationship. Recent works suggested that other muscles, especially wrist extensors, participate in this grip strength loss. The objective of this study was to clarify the role of the force-length relationship in finger force production. 18 participants performed maximal isometric finger force production during pinch grip (Pinch) and four-finger pressing (Press) tasks in four different wrist postures (extended, flexed, neutral, spontaneous). The maximum finger force (MFF), finger and wrist joint angles, as well as activation of four muscles were determined using dynamometry, motion capture, and electromyography. The force and length of the four muscles were estimated from joint angles and muscle activation using a musculoskeletal model. MFF decreased for flexed wrist during Pinch but remained stable across wrist postures during Press. The results suggested that the loss of pinch grip force in deviated wrist posture is partially related to force-length relationship of finger extensors. In opposition, MFF during Press was not influenced by the modulation of muscle capacities but was probably first limited by mechanical and neural factors related to finger interdependenceComment: Annals of Biomedical Engineering, 202

Finger flexion to extension ratio in healthy climbers: a proposal for evaluation and rebalance

IntroductionFinger strength is a key factor in climbing performance and is highly dependent on the capacity of the finger flexor muscles. The majority of finger-specific training therefore focuses on improving such capabilities by performing finger flexion contraction during hanging exercises on small holds. However, greater strength in the finger flexors causes an imbalance with the extensor muscle capacities. Such an unfavourable imbalance may be detrimental to finger strength and could possibly lead to an increase in the risk of finger injury. The aim of this study was to develop an easily implementable method to assess the flexor-to-extensor imbalance and evaluate the effects of different training on it.MethodsSeventy-eight experienced climbers were tested to assess their maximum finger flexion strength (MFS), maximum finger extension strength (MES) and MFS/MES ratio. Fifty-two of them were randomly assigned to one of three training regimens: intermittent static flexion at 80% MFS (TFlex; n = 11), intermittent static extension at 80% MES (TExt; n = 10), intermittent repetition of alternating flexion and extension (TPaired; n = 11) or no specific training (CTRL; n = 20). They trained twice a week for four weeks on a hangboard. Before and after training, force data were recorded on a force-sensing hangboard and MFS, MES and the MFS/MES ratio were compared using ANCOVA.ResultsThe mean value of the MFS/MES ratio was 6.27 (confidence interval: 5.94–6.61) and the extreme ratio was defined above 8.75. Concerning the training intervention, no difference was observed in the CTRL group between pre- and post-tests. MFS improved significantly in the TFlex (+8.4 ± 4.4%) and TPaired (+11.9 ± 10.5%) groups, whereas MES increased significantly in the TExt group (+41.4 ± 31.3%). The MFS/MES ratio remained statistically stable among all groups (+0.9 ± 17.5% in TFlex, −1.9 ± 16.1% in TPaired), although the TExt group showed a decreasing trend (p = 0.1; −27.8 ± 17.6%).DiscussionThese results showed that only the extensor-based training had an effect on finger extension strength and the potential to rebalance the MFS/MES ratio

Comparison of three local frame definitions for the kinematic analysis of the fingers and the wrist

International audienceBecause the hand is a complex poly-articular limb, numerous methods have been proposed to investigate its kinematics therefore complicating the comparison between studies and the methodological choices. With the objective of overcoming such issues, the present study compared the effect of three local frame definitions on local axis orientations and joint angles of the fingers and the wrist. Three local frames were implemented for each segment. The “Reference” frames were aligned with global axes during a static neutral posture. The “Landmark” frames were computed using palpated bony landmarks. The “Functional” frames included a flexion–extension axis estimated during functional movements. These definitions were compared with regard to the deviations between obtained local segment axes and the evolution of joint (Cardan) angles during two test motions. Each definition resulted in specific local frame orientations with deviations of 15° in average for a given local axis. Interestingly, these deviations produced only slight differences (below 7°) regarding flexion–extension Cardan angles indicating that there is no preferred method when only interested in finger flexion–extension movements. In this case, the Reference method was the easiest to implement, but did not provide physiological results for the thumb. Using the Functional frames reduced the kinematic cross-talk on the secondary and tertiary Cardan angles by up to 20° indicating that the Functional definition is useful when investigating complex three-dimensional movements. Globally, the Landmark definition provides valuable results and, contrary to the other definitions, is applicable for finger deformities or compromised joint rotations

Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers

International audiencePurpose: This study investigated the hand and wrist muscle capacities among expert rock climbers and compared them with those of non-climbers. The objective was to identify the adaptations resulting from several years of climbing practice.Methods: Twelve climbers (nine males and three females) and 13 non-climber males participated in this study. Each subject performed a set of maximal voluntary contractions about the wrist and the metacarpo-phalengeal joints during which net joint moments and electromyographic activities were recorded. From this data set, the muscle capacities of the five main muscle groups of the hand (wrist flexors, wrist extensors, finger flexors, finger extensors and intrinsic muscles) were estimated using a biomechanical model. This process consisted in adjusting the physiological crosssectional area (PCSA) and the maximal muscle stress value from an initial generic model.Results: Results obtained from the model provided several new pieces of information compared to the analysis of only the net joint moments. Particularly, the capacities of the climbers were 37.1 % higher for finger flexors compared to non-climbers and were similar for finger extensor and for the other muscle groups. Climbers thus presented a greater imbalance between flexor and extensor capacities which suggests a potential risk of pathologies.Conclusions: The practice of climbing not only increased the strength of climbers but also resulted in specific adaptations among hand muscles. The proposed method and the obtained data could be re-used to optimize the training programs as well as the rehabilitation processes followinghand pathologies

Handle Shape Affects the Grip Force Distribution and the Muscle Loadings During Power Grip Tasks.

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