The new costumes of odd sizes: Plus sized women\u27s fashions, 1910-1924

The purpose of this research was to examine the fashionable styles available to women in the 1910s and 1920s, the advice, both prescriptive and proscriptive, given to plus sized women in the 1910 and the 1920s, and the apparel-related patents issued during the 1910s to 1929 to aid the plus sized woman. Primary sources analyzed included The New York Times, Vogue, Good Housekeeping, and utility patents. They provided multiple viewpoints regarding the plus sized woman during this period. The percentage of larger women grew during the early twentieth century, and it was estimated that by 1916 there were over 13 million women, or 12.7% of the total population in the United States was considered overweight or stout. The term stout indicated a figure (often of matronly appearance), with generous bust, back and hip curves that decidedly did not fit in with fashion\u27s demands for the slim figure. Generally, women ten to fifteen percent above the average weight were considered overweight. In 1924, The New York Times stated that stout sizes ranged from 38.5 to 52.5 bust; a 48 in ordinary or average sizes was comparable to a size 42 to 44 in plus sized sizing. This research demonstrated that plus sized women were able to purchase ready-to-wear clothing in the years 1910 to 1929. The ready-to-wear industry did exist for plus sized women in the 1910s though it was just in its infancy. By the latter half of the 1910s, the ready-to-wear clothing industry had expanded for the plus sized woman. Plus sized woman strayed away from dressmakers clothing because of the satisfaction and convenience of ready-to-wear clothing. By the 1920s, plus sized women were able to purchase ready-to-wear clothing specially designed for their size. More clothing manufactures saw the potential and purchasing power of the plus sized woman

Material relationships: the textile and the garment, the maker and the machine. Developing a composite pattern weaving system

This research brings together the disciplines of woven textile design, zero waste pattern cutting and fashion design to form the Composite Pattern Weaving system; an innovative approach to woven garment design and construction which assimilates textile and garment lay-plan design and construction to produce engineered zero waste and integrally shaped woven garments, containing multiple fabric qualities, from a single length of woven textile. The approach challenges conventional textile and fashion design processes and systems by adopting a holistic and simultaneous approach to the design and production of textile and garment components; facilitating the integration of functional and sustainable design strategies to enhance garment durability and longevity through the implementation of a multi-method lifecycle approach to design. This research adopts the Transitional Design Methodology; an alternative approach of working between traditional and advanced technologies which challenges the constraints of the two modes of production whilst capitalising on their advantages. This cyclical iterative approach emphasises the importance of the relationship between the maker, materials and the machine(s), whilst recognising the potential for a transitional dialogue and knowledge transfer between all aspects of hand and digital production. Employing both modes of production in parallel, the Transitional Design Methodology facilitates a reciprocal relationship whereby concepts, designs and ways of working evolve as the maker moves between modes. Through the production of zero waste woven garment prototypes using hand and digital weaving technologies, the research establishes new integral shaping techniques and woven garment construction methods to minimise material production, consumption and waste, and identifies some of the limitations of fully-fashioned and composite garment weaving. The garment prototypes embody the learning and knowledge derived through the application of the Transitional Design Methodology. They demonstrate the advantages of working iteratively between hand and digital modes of design and construction to produce innovative (and interconnected) design outcomes, to advance skills and processes, and enhance personal practice

Fashion parades - for men only: Multiple tailor Hepworths, designer Hardy Amies and the marketing of men's suits in Britain in the 1960s

This article will examine the use of male fashion shows as a marketing and promotional tool by British high street multiple tailor Hepworths in the 1960s as part of their design collaboration with women’s fashion designer and couturier Hardy Amies. The partnership successfully brought the concept of the branded designer label to British men for the first time and was a major initiative for the menswear industry as it highlighted and consolidated a design ethos which strongly emphasized men’s fashion. Drawing on a wide range of primary source material including oral history interviews with two male models who worked for Hepworths and Amies; object studies of surviving garments; and film and images of the shows, this article will explore the significant and innovative approach to selling men’s fashionable tailoring taken by this mid-market menswear company. It also provides a broader understanding of the history of men’s fashion during this period, a narrative which is dominated by the concept of the peacock revolution, by demonstrating Hepworths’ important contribution to everyday men’s fashion in post-Second World War Britain

Study on 3D modeling and pattern-making for upper garment（上衣の三次元モデルの構築およびパターンメーキングに関する研究）

信州大学(Shinshu university)博士（工学）ThesisZHANG JUN. Study on 3D modeling and pattern-making for upper garment（上衣の三次元モデルの構築およびパターンメーキングに関する研究）. 信州大学, 2017, 博士論文. 博士（工学）, 甲第663号, 平成29年03月20日授与.doctoral thesi

Refashioning Style from the Outside-In: A Pakistani Diasporic Response

Pakistan’s traditionalists and modernists hold opposing political, religious, social and nationalist views creating a constant tension within the culture. This tension creates a fashion industry with two extremes, one side reflecting traditional influences and the other reflecting western trends. I address the tension by analysing the craft and context of traditional Pakistani men’s clothing and incorporating traditional construction techniques into garments that reflect aspects of both points of view. In a series of five looks, I extract from influences like Persian, North Indian, Afghani, Colonial and Neo-Colonial, to generate hybridized garments that offer a new perspective, blending traditional elements with the global vocabulary of fashion

Computational Design of Wiring Layout on Tight Suits with Minimal Motion Resistance

An increasing number of electronics are directly embedded on the clothing to monitor human status (e.g., skeletal motion) or provide haptic feedback. A specific challenge to prototype and fabricate such a clothing is to design the wiring layout, while minimizing the intervention to human motion. We address this challenge by formulating the topological optimization problem on the clothing surface as a deformation-weighted Steiner tree problem on a 3D clothing mesh. Our method proposed an energy function for minimizing strain energy in the wiring area under different motions, regularized by its total length. We built the physical prototype to verify the effectiveness of our method and conducted user study with participants of both design experts and smart cloth users. On three types of commercial products of smart clothing, the optimized layout design reduced wire strain energy by an average of 77% among 248 actions compared to baseline design, and 18% over the expert design.Comment: This work is accepted at SIGGRAPH ASIA 2023(Conference Track

The Evolution of Men’s Fashion Trend on Malay Festival Costume “Baju Raya” in Malaysia (1930-2017)

The evolutionary process of Malay clothes reached the highest level during the Malacca Sultanate. Tun Hassan was the first person to change the shape of the original Baju Melayu. Nowadays, the modernization process is becoming very extensive. This research aimed to analyze the evolution of the trend men's Baju Melayu in Malaysia regarding social change and transformation of new trend Baju Melayu. The theory of social changes and Malay dress principles and ethics will use. This is a qualitative research approach. This research, hopefully, would fill in the gap of knowledge and provide a vital source to future references.    Keywords: Baju Melayu; costume; Malay festivals; men’s; social.    eISSN: 2398-4287 © 2020. The Authors. Published for AMER ABRA cE-Bs by e-International Publishing House, Ltd., UK. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Peer-review under responsibility of AMER (Association of Malaysian Environment-Behaviour Researchers), ABRA (Association of Behavioural Researchers on Asians) and cE-Bs (Centre for Environment-Behaviour Studies), Faculty of Architecture, Planning & Surveying, Universiti Teknologi MARA, Malaysia.   DOI: https://doi.org/10.21834/ebpj.v5iSI1.232