Food as Voice

Abstract

We often interpret “voice” as a means of communication. By extension, we can also consider food and drink as possessing their own voice, as they express our deeply held beliefs about our identities. Having the ability to speak is about having power, and the voices of food and beverages are particularly notable for their capacity to unveil the complexities of race, class, gender, and various other social categories that shape human experience. Alcohol as an intoxicant is particularly rich with social significance, as evidenced by the historical necessity to regulate its consumption across societies. Food scholar Diana Pittet discusses the concept of “beverage voice,” stating, “Wherever there’s drinking, there’s an institution—governmental, religious, cultural, social— that dictates who gets to drink what, where, and when. Additionally, wherever there’s a power dynamic, there are voices that are disproportionately loud, others that are expressed subversively, and some that remain silenced.” Oaxacan mezcal, the distilled spirit made from agave that has experienced a surge in popularity in recent years also embodies a powerful voice, at times elevating itself as the voice of Mexico. By engaging with it, we can gain insight into the shifting attitudes and socioeconomic divides prevalent in Mexico’s history and those emerging within the contemporary global market