The study conducted intends to demonstrate to what extent Nordic fashion brands are positioning themselves in the market and the way they are assuming a leading position in a globalized market through the adoption of personalized communication strategies.
Through the analyses of the differentiation concepts and the “country of origin” effect we have conducted an empiric study of these brands, whose market recognition has been crescent in recent years.
We intend to show that these brands are differentiation themselves from the competitors by the adoption of well integrated communication strategies reinforce by the promotion of a Scandinavian heritage.
Through successful communication languages, clear positioning and international expansion, these brands are transforming the “Nordic” term into a major key asset, due to its favourable perceived brand attributes and region’s strength.
Studied brands were:  Acne, By Malege Birger and Designers Remix Collection.
The gathered data allowed us to develop a data base of brand analyses, one that is built upon 3 main directions:  brand character, emotional territory and communication registry.Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT

Alves, Ana Isabel Roncha

Guedes, Maria da Graça

Universidade do Minho: RepositoriUM

  	  COMMUNICATION	  STRATEGIES	  AND	  PROCESSES	  WITHIN	  FASHION	  BRANDS	  	  Nordic	  Brands	  as	  case	  studies	  for	  successful	  communication	  strategies	  	  Graça	  GUEDES1	  e	  Ana	  RONCHA2	  1Universidade	  do	  Minho	  2	  Universidade	  do	  Minho	  	  CIPED	  –	  VI	  International	  Congress	  on	  Design	  Research	  -­‐	  An Agenda for Design	  Lisbon,	  10-­‐12	  October,	  2011	   	  ABSTRACT	  	  The	  study	  conducted	  intends	  to	  demonstrate	  to	  what	  extent	  Nordic	  fashion	  brands	  are	  positioning	  themselves	  in	  the	  market	  and	  the	  way	  they	  are	  assuming	  a	  leading	  position	  in	  a	  globalized	  market	  through	  the	  adoption	  of	  personalized	  communication	  strategies.	  Through	   the	   analyses	   of	   the	   differentiation	   concepts	   and	   the	   “country	   of	   origin”	   effect	   we	   have	  conducted	  an	  empiric	  study	  of	  these	  brands,	  whose	  market	  recognition	  has	  been	  crescent	  in	  recent	  years.	  We	   intend	   to	   show	   that	   these	   brands	   are	   differentiation	   themselves	   from	   the	   competitors	   by	   the	  adoption	  of	  well	  integrated	  communication	  strategies	  reinforce	  by	  the	  promotion	  of	  a	  Scandinavian	  heritage.	  Through	  successful	  communication	  languages,	  clear	  positioning	  and	  international	  expansion,	  these	  brands	  are	  transforming	  the	  “Nordic”	  term	  into	  a	  major	  key	  asset,	  due	  to	   its	   favourable	  perceived	  brand	  attributes	  and	  region’s	  strength.	  Studied	  brands	  were:	  	  Acne,	  By	  Malege	  Birger	  and	  Designers	  Remix	  Collection.	  The	  gathered	  data	  allowed	  us	   to	  develop	  a	  data	  base	  of	  brand	  analyses,	  one	   that	   is	  built	  upon	  3	  main	  directions:	  	  brand	  character,	  emotional	  territory	  and	  communication	  registry.	  	  KEYWORDS:	  Fashion,	  Communication,	  Differentiation,	  Branding	  	  	  1.	  INTRODUCTION	  Communication,	  as	  we	  know	  it	  from	  Barthes	  and	  his	  “Fashion	  System”,	  holds	  its	  premises	  on	  the	  written	  word.	  However,	   fashion	   communication	   is	   not	   based	   solely	   on	   the	   written	   word	   but	   also	   in	   the	   translation	   of	  concepts.	  1	  Fashion	  is	  built	  upon	  several	  signs	  to	  which	  we	  attribute	  a	  meaning	  2	  and	  most	  of	  the	  times	  we	  are	  not	  attentive	  enough	  to	  their	  connotation	  or	  to	  their	  subjective	  quality.	  Nordic	   fashion	   brands	   have	   been,	   these	   latest	   times,	   object	   of	   a	   high	   level	   of	   growth	   and	   notoriety	   in	   the	  market,	  due	  to	   its	  aesthetic	  proposals	  and	  market	  strategies.	  With	  this	   in	  mind,	   this	  study	   intends	  to	  answer	  the	  following	  questions:	   What	   are	   the	   communication	   elements	   that	   are	   used	  by	   these	   brands,	   that	   define	   them	  and	  makes	  them	  differentiated?	   In	  what	  ways	  can	  we	  identify	  a	  coherent	  and	  total	  integration	  of	  products,	  colour	  tones,	  point	  of	  sale,	  communication	  supports;	  that	  enhances	  and	  reinforces	  the	  brands	  concept?	  	   Ultimately	  we	  have	  analysed	  these	  results,	  using	  the	  definitions	  of	  brand	  character,	  emotional	  territory	  and	  communication	  registry,	  as	  a	  way	  of	  establishing	  a	  common	  ground	  and	  to	  demonstrate	  a	  national	  identity	  of	  the	  selected	  brands.	  	  	  2.	  METODOLOGY	  To	  begin	  the	  study,	  we	  have	  selected	  an	  array	  of	  communication	  supports	  –	  digital	  and	  print	   -­‐	  and	  elements	  that	  are	  used	  by	  these	  brands.	  After	  a	  thorough	  analyses,	  comparisons	  and	  contradictions	  were	  noted	  down	  to	  provide	  a	  common	  ground	  basis.	  The	  selected	  brands	  were:	   	  Acne	  Jeans,	  By	  Malene	  Birger	  and	  Designers	  Remix	  Collection.	  This	  study	  was	  put	  together	  around	  the	  concepts	  of:	  brand	  character,	  emotional	  territory	  and	  communication	  registry.	  Brand	  character	  is	  related	  top	  the	  way	  the	  brand	  positions	  itself	  in	  the	  mind	  of	  consumers,	  through	  the	  uses	  of	  its	  communication	  elements.	  Emotional	   territory	   intends	   to	   characterize	   the	   way	   it	   expresses	   itself	   through	   these	   elements	   and	   the	  personality	  it	  holds	  in	  itself.	  Communication	  registry	  demonstrates	  the	  brand	  speech	  towards	  the	  consumer,	  the	  communication	  language	  it	  holds	  and	  provides.	  	  3.	  CONCEPTUALIZATION	  ACNE	  JEANS	  Through	   the	   study	   of	   the	   brand	   supports,	   the	   following	   core	   values	   were	   identified:	   simplicity/	  modernity/	  urban	  character/	  comfort	  /	  style.	  Colour	  tones	  (Product	  wise):	  The	  colour	  palettes	  used	  in	  the	  collections	  reflect	  the	  purity	  and	  urban	  style	  of	  the	  brand.	  There	  is	  very	  strong	  base	  made	  up	  of	  neutral	  tones,	  gently	  touched	  by	  the	  use	  of	  bright	  and	  vivid	  colour	  accents,	  defining	  the	  season.	  The	  collection	  is	  based	  on	  this	  neutral	  and	  easy	  to	  mix	  shades.	  Communication	   elements:	   For	   both	   collections	   -­‐	   Acne	   Jeans	   and	   Acne	   Collection,	   the	   communication	  campaigns	  are	  built	  on	  monochromatic	  tones	  and	  in	  imagery	  with	  barely	  any	  accessory	  and	  without	  targeting	  specific	  sceneries	  or	  locations.	  Emphasis	  is	  placed	  on	  the	  models	  pose	  –	  informal,	  strong	  and	  remarkable	  and	  in	  the	  aesthetic	  proposals	  of	  the	  clothing.	  The	  brands	  website	   reflects	   the	  direct	  and	  clear	  communication	  that	   the	  brands	   intends	   to	  establish	  with	   its	  audience:	  easy	  to	  browse,	  neutral	  colours,	  no	  animation	  effects	  or	  any	  elements	  of	  distraction	  –	  reinforcing	  the	  simplicity	  and	  clarity	  of	  information.	  Points	  of	   sale	   can	  also	  be	   identity	   as	  a	   clear	   vision	  of	   the	  utilitarian	  and	   functional	   character	  of	   the	  brand	  –	  limited	  accessories,	  monochromatic	  tones	  and	  a	  clean	  product	  display,	  easily	  accessed	  by	  the	  consumer.	  The	  stores	  have	  a	  strong	  presence	  of	  the	  colour	  white,	  taking	  advantage	  of	  lighting	  and	  pure	  environments.	  We	  have	  put	  together	  the	  3	  vectors	  of	  study	  of	  the	  brand	  in	  the	  following	  terms:	  Brand	  character:	  A	  young,	  urban,	  independent	  and	  slightly	  punctuated	  with	  sensuality.	  Emotional	  territory:	  The	  brand	  intents	  to	  express	  itself	  as	  a	  confident,	  strong	  and	  holding	  a	  distinct	  and	  genuine	  personal	  trail.	  Communication	   registry:	   Focus	   is	   given	   to	   lifestyle,	   simplicity,	  minimalism	  and	   individual	   registry	  of	   personal	  expression.	  	  BY	  MALENE	  BIRGER	  The	  core	  values	  of	  the	  brand	  were:	  sensuality/	  strong	  connection	  to	  its	  roots/	  elegance/	  dare/	  sophistication.	  Colour	  tones	  (Product	  wise):	  The	  colour	  palettes	  used	  reflect	  a	  dual	  direction	  for	  colours:	  neutral	  and	  functional	  tones	  as	  basis	  and	  the	  conjunction	  of	  strong	  and	  remarkable	  colours	  as	  contrasts.	  A	  strong	  presence	  of	  colours	  originated	  from	  ethnical	  and	  distinct	  cultural	  inspirations.	  	  Communication	   elements:	   By	   looking	   at	   an	   historic	   of	   the	   communication	   campaigns,	   we	   can	   establish	   a	  common	  denominator:	  the	  use	  of	  strong	  images,	  secure	  poses	  and	  combinations	  that	  reflect	  sophistication	  and	  daring	  attitudes.	  The	  fact	   that	   they	  use	  barely	  any	  scenery	  helps	   to	  accentuate	  the	  differentiation	  aspects	  of	  the	  garments.	  The	  brand	  website	  is	  a	  strong	  proof	  of	  the	  sensual	  and	  strong	  character	  of	  the	  brand	  with	  the	  use	  of	  black	  and	  white	  images	  with	  strong	  contrasts.	  These	  dual	  tones	  arrive	  as	  almost	  clinic,	  providing	  full	  focus	  on	  the	  product.	  As	  for	  the	  3	  vectors	  of	  study	  we	  have	  come	  up	  with	  the	  following	  conclusions:	  Brand	  character:	  An	  adult,	  independent	  and	  liberal	  brand.	  Emotional	   territory:	   The	  brand	   intends	   to	  position	  as	   a	   confident	  brand,	   secure	  and	  with	   a	  high	   level	   of	   self	  esteem.	  Communication	  registry:	  Its	  speech	  is	  based	  on	  a	  metaphorical	  registry,	  enhancing	  differentiation	  and	  impact.	  	  DESIGNERS	  REMIX	  COLLECTION	  The	  core	  values	  identified	  were:	  sensuality/	  dare/	  femininity/	  difference/	  distinction	  Colour	  tones	  (Product	  wise):	  The	  colour	  palettes	  identified	  have	  a	  strong	  emphasis	  of	  neutral	  and	  soft	  colours.	  There	  is	  a	  base	  of	  a	  simple	  and	  easy	  coloration	  that	  are	  punctuated	  by	  the	  insertion	  of	  soft	  and	  light	  tones	  –	  in	  subtle	  degradations.	  Communication	  elements:	  The	  communication	  campaigns	  are	  mainly	  black	  and	  white,	  with	  strong	  presence	  of	  product	   instead	   of	   the	  model.	   Although	   they	   use	   sceneries	   as	   a	   complement	   of	   the	   image,	   these	   acquire	   a	  metaphorical	   character	   interacting	  with	   the	   visual	   composition	   and	  with	   the	   product.	   The	   results	   are	   highly	  classified	  and	  impacting	  images,	  due	  to	  an	  almost	  clinical	  control	  of	  the	  composition	  lines	  of	  the	  image.	  The	   website	   reflects	   a	   direct	   and	   easy	   browsing	   system,	   with	   the	   use	   of	   clean	   and	   functional	   menus.	   The	  information	  appears	  in	  a	  structured	  and	  organized	  display	  method,	  in	  an	  almost	  geometric	  organization	  of	  the	  contents.	  The	  fact	  that	  there	  are	  no	  animations	  supports	  the	  simplicity	  of	  the	  communication.	  The	   points	   of	   sale	   are	   structured	   on	   monochromatic	   tones,	   with	   the	   use	   of	   wide	   and	   functional	   store	  environments,	   focusing	  on	  the	  product	  on	  not	  on	  decoration.	  The	  product	   is	  placed	  with	  no	  distractions	  and	  not	  allowing	  multiple	  references	  of	  each	  piece	  –	  intended	  to	  gain	  importance.	  We	  have	  put	  together	  the	  3	  vectors	  of	  study	  of	  the	  brand:	  Brand	   character:	   A	   sophisticated,	   urban	   and	   independent	   brand	   where	   the	   differentiation	   elements	   of	   the	  product	  extend	  to	  an	  unpredictable	  character	  of	  the	  brand.	  Emotional	  territory:	  The	  brand	  intends	  to	  express	  itself	  as	  a	  confident	  one,	  daring	  and	  at	  the	  same	  time	  with	  an	  emotional	  accentuated	  background.	  Communication	  registry:	  The	  brand	  communicates	  with	  elements	  of	  simplicity	  and	  minimalism,	  creating	  at	  the	  same	  time	  a	  distance	  and	  an	  impact	  on	  the	  consumer.	  	  4.	  CONCLUSION	  The	  brands	  personality,	   in	   the	  eyes	  of	   the	  consumer,	   is	  usually	  well	   identifiable	   through	  total	  and	   integrated	  communication	  processes	  that	  allow	  it	  to	  be	  sustainable	  and	  consistent.	  Brands	  communication	   is	   crucial	   in	   the	  way	   that	  a	  brand	  exists	  only	  when	   it	   is	  well	   communicated.	  Kapferer	  says	  that	  a	  brand	  is	  an	  entity	  of	  speech;	   it	  exists	  only	  through	  communication,	   it	   is	  necessary	  that	   it	  acquires	  some	  language	  terms,	  in	  order	  to	  be	  identifiable	  and	  recognizable.	  3	  The	  strategic	  definition	  of	  the	  multidimensional	  elements	  of	  brand	  differentiation	  for	  the	  universe	  of	   fashion	  brands	  holds	  its	  premises	  in	  the	  way	  these	  same	  elements	  are	  communicated	  and	  integrated	  to	  the	  consumer.	  In	  the	  case	  of	  these	  Nordic	  Fashion	  Brands	  that	  were	  studied	  –	  and	  yet	   it	   is	  a	  concept	  that	  we	  can	  extend	  to	  others	   provenience	   from	   the	   same	   geographic	   background	   –	   we	   can	   identify	   the	   use	   of	   common	   brand	  denominators	  that	  makes	  them	  consistent	  and	  easily	  positioned	  in	  the	  mind	  of	  the	  consumers,	  and	  ones	  that	  allow	  for	  a	  direct	  communication	  with	  their	  target.	  These	  brands	  have	  adopted	  strong	  and	  clear	  strategies	  of	  differentiation,	  adjustable	  and	  directly	  connected	  to	  the	  brands	  inner	  characteristics,	  creating	  a	  strong	  identity	  for	  themselves	  and	  ultimately	  for	  the	  country	  they	  originate	  from.	  	  5.	  REFERENCES	  1	  [Barthes],	  The	  Fashion	  System,	  University	  of	  California	  Press,	  1983	  	  	  2	  [Barthes],	  The	  Fashion	  System,	  p.263	  	  3	  [Aaker],	  D.	  A.	  (1991).	  ‘Managing	  brand	  equity’.	  New	  York:	  The	  Free	  Press	  

Communication strategies and processes within fashion brands : Nordic brands as case studies for successful communicationstrategies

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