Low-Energy Rip Currents Associated With Small Bathymetric Variations

Abstract

The article of record as published may be found at http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-11-00024We show for the first time that low-energy waves can induce a rip current system over subtle alongshore bathymetric variations. Comprehensive field measurements across a rip current that morphologically migrated (∼ 12 m/day) through a coherent cross- and alongshore array of co-located pressure and velocity sensors were obtained. The rip current is associated with a small bathymetric surfzone non-uniformity (1 in 300 alongshore variation). The circulation was kinematically non-uniform for ∼5% of the time over the course of the 20 day experiment and was present at low tides associated with increases in rip current activity. The presence of the rip current and mild-sloped rip channel induce statistically significant alongshore variations in Hrms, wave direction, directional spreading, infragravity waves, and very low frequency motions. Changes in the directional spreading are correlated with the presence of very low frequency motions influenced by the presence of the rip current.JM was funded by ONR under contract number N00014-05-1-0154 and N00014- 05-1-0352 and the Naval Postgraduate School. EBT and TPS were funded by ONR under contracts N0001405WR20150 and N0001405WR20385. AJHMR was funded by ONR under contract N000140310829 and the Dutch National Science Foundation (NWO) under contract DCB.5856. GS was a National Research Council Fellow during a sabatical funded in part by the ONR under contract N0001405WR20150.JM was funded by ONR under contract number N00014-05-1-0154 and N00014- 05-1-0352 and the Naval Postgraduate School. EBT and TPS were funded by ONR under contracts N0001405WR20150 and N0001405WR20385. AJHMR was funded by ONR under contract N000140310829 and the Dutch National Science Foundation (NWO) under contract DCB.5856. GS was a National Research Council Fellow during a sabatical funded in part by the ONR under contract N0001405WR20150

    Similar works