This paper begins with a pedagogical discussion of the propagation of cosmic
rays and the showers produced when a cosmic ray primary hits the upper
atmosphere. The paper focusses cosmic rays, with energy > 10^19 eV. Emphasis is
placed on the shower properties that are relevant to the detection of cosmic
rays by surface arrays and fluorescence telescopes. The two major experiments,
AGASA and HiRes are described in some detail. Then the experimental results are
reviewed. It is no surprise that more data will be needed. But it is also true
that improved analysis and further data from HiRes can make significant
improvements in the experimental situation.Comment: 43 pages, 38 figures, Taup 2003 proceeding