Stuff happens: a material culture approach to textile conservation

Abstract

Textile conservation, defined here as the preservation, investigation andpresentation of textiles, is often viewed largely as a technical andaesthetic problem. This research develops an alternative view byunderstanding objects as being subject to both material and socialchange. The dynamic aspects of this material and social process isemphasised as ‘stuff happens’. This research proposes, and providesevidence for, a material culture approach to textile conservation, anddemonstrates its development and application. An analysis of case studiesshows how the material and the social interact at the point of assessmentand intervention. Examination of the material aspects of textileconservation reveals that social values influence decision-making. Valuesheld at the time of conservation are shown to depend on the categoriesused. Investigation of these categories demonstrates that any anomalousquality of the textile undergoing conservation allows for contestation ofsocial values. As values change over time, analysis of each conservationassessment and intervention reveals a comparison of values held atdifferent times viewed retrospectively. The resulting approach is centredon the interaction between things, persons and language where eachmediates relations of the others. It is argued that this material cultureapproach enhances understanding of the dynamic material and socialenvironment of textile conservation principles and practices