A comprehensive study of the dyes and dyeing methods for textiles excavated from a Qing tomb in Shijingshan District, Beijing

Abstract

In this study, a group of textiles excavated from a Qing Dynasty tomb in Shijingshan District, Beijing, were studied in terms of their dyes and dyeing methods. Using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography, and pioneering in China detailed comparison with recorded historical dye recipes, and colors and dye compositions of some textiles handed down from ancient times, we identified sappanwood, Chinese cork tree, a dye containing ellagic acid (probably from acorn cup) and indigo. In most samples, one or two dyes were identified. Only a few samples might have been dyed with three or more dyes. Different color shades were obtained through the same combination of dyestuffs but different amounts of the dyestuffs. Comparison results show for the first time that the same dye was used for textiles of different types and materials, and threads for different uses. The dyes and dyeing methods used for this group of textiles are consistent with the historical records and with the analytical results of historical textiles. This study is also the first successful dye analysis of excavated textiles of the Qing Dynasty. These results supplement historical textile dyeing records, contributing to research on dyeing history of the Qing Dynasty

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