1 online resource (PDF,  2 pages)This archival publication may not reflect current scientific knowledge or recommendations. Current information available from the University of Minnesota Extension: https://www.extension.umn.edu

McKinnon, Jane P.

Read, Paul E.

1 online resource (PDF,  2 pages)This archival publication may not reflect current scientific knowledge or recommendations. Current information available from the University of Minnesota Extension: https://www.extension.umn.edu.Read, Paul E.; McKinnon, Jane P.. (1973). Storing tender bulbs and bulblike structures. Retrieved from the University Digital Conservancy, https://hdl.handle.net/11299/207037

University of Minnesota Digital Conservancy

HORTICULTURE NO. 33-1973 PAULE. READ and JANE P. McKINNO llNIVERS/TY OF r,,,., .. ,-s . ..,,,,,,,,_" OTA DOC[!':,;:,s Storing Tender Bulbs and Bulblike Structures ST. P.1\UI re,, , --- - ... -1,,,F':JS LIBRAR Plants with tender bulbs, corms, tubers, and roots are -- lfi_Si= r most species listed, the curing period should be valuable additions for the home gardener to use in the perenni- relative y hart (e.g. dahlias, cannas, calla, caladium). This short-al border, cutting garden, or for bedding plant usage. Because term curing period or drying period should be 1 to 3 days, de-of their tender nature these plants require special attention, pending somewhat on temperature. It should be done in a room but will be rewarding if given the special treatment they deserve or area away from direct sunlight or drying winds. For long and require. What is a tender bulb? The term "tender bulb" re- term curing, as with gladiolus, tigridia, montbretia, and oxalis, fers to plants which have fleshy storage structures (bulbs, corms, the curing period should be approximately 3 weeks. Then, in tubers, and roots) which are killed by the cold Minnesota win- the case of gladiolus, the old corm and cormels should be re-ters if the plants are not brought indoors during the winter. Be- moved. Drying and curing temperatures for such materials cause of their "tender" nature they must be given special should be 60-700 in a dry, well-ventilated area. See Fig. 1. protection, usually by digging and bringing the fleshy storage structure into a warmer area for storage through the winter months. Harvest-Harvest techniques for these plants are as important as careful harvesting of any vegetable crop. Just as the keeping quality of potatoes or squash may be impaired by rough hand-ling and crude digging and harvesting techniques, the fleshy root of the dahlia or the corm of the gladiolus may also be damaged and its storage life reduced. When to dig -For most tender materials the plant should be dug after the foliage dries up or is killed by frost. An exception to this is Hymenocallis (lsmene or Peruvian Daffodil), which should be dug before frost damages the plant. Another excep-tion is the tuberous begonia. These should be harvested before the first killing frost occurs in the fall and usually after the leaves have started to turn yellow or become unattractive in late summer or early fall. Note: If inconvenient to wait until frost has occurred, those materials which are recommended for digging after frost has killed their foliage can usually be dug in late summer and successfully stored if they have stored enough food in the bulb, corm, or root. Dig Carefully-For all structures such as dahlias, cannas, and other materials, it is important to loosen the root gently with a fork or spade, digging several inches back from the base of the plants so that the roots are not cut off unnecessarily. With dahl-ias or other large plants, loosen the soil on all sides of the plant before lifting the clump of roots and soil. In all cases, avoid cutting, breaking, or "skinning" the fleshy structure involved. Diseases enter through cuts and bruises very readily and this leads to rotting and losses in storage. Cleaning-Some of these plant materials are best washed gently with a hose (e.g. dahlias). One technique that is used by some growers is to put hardware cloth (or a large mesh screen) across the top of a large garbage can and set the clump of dahlias or cannas on the hardware cloth or screen and wash the soil into the garbage can. This eliminates mess and loss of soil and the soil and water can be returned to the garden so it is not com-pletely wasted. Another technique to reuse the soil is to place it on the compost pile. Materials like gladiolus corms are prob-ably best left unwashed and allowed to dry. After drying, the soil may be gently removed. Pest Control- Before storing corms, dust them with a fungicide-insecticide mixture. Use one part 10 percent chlordane (diazinon, methoxychlor, or sevin may also be used) to one part of a fungi-cide dust or wettable powder, such as thiram, captan, folpet, maneb, or zineb. This will control thrips and protect small cuts from rot. Storing-One of the most important items to remember before placing the bulbs in storage is to label the plant material care-fully. In the case of gladiolus and similar materials, this is easily handled by placing the corm in a small paper bag which has been properly labeled. Larger materials, like the fleshy roots of dahlias or the fleshy rhizome of canna, can be handled in sever-al ways. One technique that works quite well is to write directly on the fleshy root with a permanent felt marking pen. If this is done on large clumps the variety name should be written on several roots rather than on just one, because in storage occasion-ally a root is broken off of the main clump. "Tree labels" of the wood-and-wire type work very well for labeling this type of plant materials also. In all cases, variety name and/or other im-portant identifying characteristics should be written on the label and also recorded in a notebook or in some other way. Labeling is not emphasized adequately in many cases and many a prized plant has been lost because of poor labeling. The following fact sheets are available for more infor-mation on specific crops: Horticulture No. 5-Tuberous Begonias Horticulture No. 31-Growing Dahlias Plant Pathology No. 11-Gladiolus Diseases Fig. 1--Storing gladiolus and similar corms. 3 1. Dry for 2-3 weeks after digging. 2. Remove cormels. 3. Remove old corm and discard. Plant Material Achimenes Acidanthera Anemone or Windflower (A. Coronaria) Tuberous begonia (B. Tuberhybida) Caladium Calla (Zantedeschia) Canna Dahlia Freesia Gladiolus Gloriosa Lily (G. Rothschildiana) Hymenocallis (lsmene, Peruvian Daffodil, H. Calathina) Montbretia (Tritonia) Oxalis Tigridia Tuberose (Polianthes) Structure involved rhizome corm tuber tuberous root tuber rhizome tuberous rootstock tuberous root corm corm tuberous roots bulb corm bulb corm tuber Storage temperature 45-50° F. 35-40° F. 40-45° F. 50-55° F. 50-550 F. 50-55° F. 40-50° F. 40-50° F. 35-40° F. 35-40° F. 40-50° F. 60-65° F. 35-40° F. 35-40° F. 35-40° F. 55-65° F. Additional considerations Store cool and dry. Dig when leaves turn yellow and let dry after digging. Dig 6 to 8 weeks after bloom. Store as gladiolus. Store like dahlias. Frequently sold as an autumn-planted bulb, but not winter-hardy in Minnesota. Dig when foliage turns yellow and cure with foliage. Remove foliage and store in sphagnum peat or vermiculite. Dig when foliage turns yellow or after frost has killed foliage. Cure with remaining foliage and store in sphagnum peat or vermiculite. Dig when foliage turns yellow or when foliage is dam-aged by frost. Store in sphagnum peat or vermiculite. Dig after frost has damaged foliage and allow foliage to dry a few days before digging. Dig carefully to avoid damage which will cause rotting. Store in sphagnum peat, vermiculite, or sand. Dig after frost has killed foliage or damaged foliage. Dig carefully to avoid damage. Cure carefully to avoid desiccation. Pack roots in vermiculite or sphagnum peat. One recommended technique is to place the roots in plastic bags with small perforations and enclose an equal volume of vermiculite or peat to absorb the mois-ture which is given off by the roots. Treat as gladiolus. Dig 6 to 8 weeks after bloom or when frost kills foliage. Cure 2 to 3 weeks, then remove old corm and cormels. Cure in a dry, well-ventilated area at about 60-70° F. Store in labeled paper bags with a light dusting of 10 percent chlordane. May be stored in the pot or dig the tuberous roots and store.like dahlias. May be started indoors again after 2 months storage. Should be dug before frost. Avoid breaking the heavy roots attached to the bulb. Store upside down in vermiculite or dry sand. Dig before freezing. Otherwise store and handle as gladiolus. Do not break corm cluster apart until spring. Dig after tops freeze and store in paper bags or in verm icu I ite. Dig 6 to 8 weeks. after bloom or after frost. Cure and store like gladiolus. Dig after tops die or are killed by frost. Store in plastic bags with sand or vermiculite. Remember to periodically check your stored bulbs, tubers, and roots during the storage season. Remove any dam-aged or rotting material and in cases where tuberous roots like dahlias have some rot occurring, cut back until you reach clean white, fleshy tissue again. Remember that these structures are living plants and as such need attention and care even during their dormant period. Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Roland H. Abraham, Director of Agricultural Extension Service, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minne• sota 55101. We offer our programs and facilities to all people without regard to race, creed, color, sex, or national origin. 

Storing tender bulbs and bulblike structures

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Storing tender bulbs and bulblike structures

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