"File: Clothing and Textiles, 6/28/8M""More and more people need to dress for their job because semi-professional and professional positions are on the increase. More than two-thirds of the U.S. population are employed in positions associated with the production of services rather than products. Although some employees can wear uniforms or career apparel for work, many others find most of their clothing is for the job rather than social occasions or pleasure."--First paragraphBetty Feather (State Clothing and Textiles Specialist)Includes bibliographical reference

Feather, Betty L.

English

University of Missouri: MOspace

HOME ECONOMICS "J.Jli,,Jd, 6f fM IJ.~ o/ ~iMIJtui,-~ ~ '/JillililNI, ~"If""~ GUIDE JUL 2 0 1982 Men's Wear Body Dimensions and Wardrobe Coordination Betty Feather Clothing & Textiles Specialist More and more people need to dress for their job because semi-professional and professional positions are on the increase. More than two-thirds of the U.S. population are employed in positions associated with the production of services rather than products. Although some employees can wear uniforms or career apparel for work, many others find most of their clothing is for the job rather than social occasions or pleasure. As the type of occupations has changed so has the manner in which people are appraised. Your appearance is frequently used to make first impressions, as well as evaluate potential and capabilities . Ninety percent of what employers see when they first interview a person is what they are wearing. That ninety percent is a major part of the first impression . Appearance is an index to what people think of themselves and what they are striving for. As Will Rogers said, "You don't get a second chance to make a first impression." Clothing is a communication tool. But clothing doesn't do it all; ability, drive and goals have a great deal to do with success. While good-looking clothes don't always make you a success, the wrong clothes can definitely detract from your best efforts and prove to be a major stumbling block. Realizing the importance of personal appearance , many business firms have called upon clothing consul-tants to assist their employees. With the breakdown of established dress codes in the 1960s many businessmen were freed from a prescribed way of dressing. The dilem-ma consumers face is a bewildering array of choices with very few guidelines for wardrobe coordination. Clothing is expensive--clothing mistakes are even more expensive. Researchers in a study of men's clothing purchases found that unworn suits and sport coats were discarded because they were out of style , boring, not suitable, not needed or had been replaced by new items . The garments were not worn out but realistically had become unwearable. The quality of the fabric far outlasted 711 Men's wear should enhance the body build and coordinate to provide a pleasing appearance. the garments' fashion life. "Planned obsolescence" can empty your wallet and fill the closet with outmoded apparel. What guidelines can be offered that will help build a wardrobe which will make a man look his best and give him the most mileage for his clothing dollar? The purpose of this g uidesheet is to provide a basis for men to evaluate their body build so they can select clothing that will enhance their appearance. The second purpose is to provide some basic guidelines in wardrobe coordination using color, line, texture and style to one's personal advantage . A companion g uidesheet, GH 712, "Men's Wear II : Garment Fit, Quality and Care ," targets Arhiv versionPERSONAL COMPARISON WITH THE FIT MODEL Measurement Directions 1. Height: Measure without shoes against a wall 2. Chest: Measure around the fullest part You Fit Model 6 ft. Variation 3. Neck size: Measure around the neck at the Adam's apple. For correct shirt neck size add ½". 40 inches 15 ½ inches 4. Sleeve measurement: Measure from the permanent bone at the back of the neck along the shoulders over a bent elbow and down tO the wrist bone. 34 inches 5. Waist measurement: Measure the natural waistline. 6. Trouser inseam: Measure the inside of the crotch point (where the seams meet) to hem. 32 inches 32 inches Measurements Sleeve Measurement Inseam-+---■ Height recommendations for appropriate fit; evaluates garment quality and suggested proc~dures for selecting accessories; and emphasizes the importance of clothing maintenance. A related g uidesheet for the enti re family, "Managing Your Clothing Cents" GH 991 , treats clothing resource management for the entire fam ily. Topics addressed include clothing related tO lifestyle, how to revamp the wardrobe and make it workable, and when and where tO buy for the best dollar value. Are You a Fit Model? Americans idea of a fit model is a well proportioned man who has broad shoulders, well defined but not overly muscular chest tapering tO a firm waistline and flat abdomen. His hips are narrow; butrocks, not roo round; and he has long, strong legs . Men's wear designers and manufacturers make up sample styles of new designs before going into produc-tion. These samples are produced in sizes tO be worn by the fit model type . If the new style doesn't look good on that type, chances are it's not going tO look good on those who do not match the model. To compare yourself with the fit model, take your measurements according tO the diagram and directions. After taking the measurements you will be able tO determine if you're short, tall , heavy or thin. These categories will determine the more appropriate garment lines , color, texture and accessories for best appearance. After taking your personal measurements, compare those t0 the fit models and indicate the variation. lf your height and inseam measurements are less than the fit model, you will want to consider suggestions for the short person in the Body Dimension Chart . If the chest and waist measurements are greater than the fit model's, follow the suggestions for the heavy person . A Narrow Color Focus In men's and women's fashions, the popularity of particular colors change according tO the season. Men should select the colors that enhance their personal coloring since fashion colors are only in vogue for a short period of time . Fashion colors may or may not be your best color and only you can decide . But , by selecting the best color he will look good all the time not just when the color is in fashion. Colors are classified into three groups-basic, semi-basic and fashion colors. The basic colors are traditional and are good year in and year out. For suits, basic colors include navy blue, gray, brown (camel and tan) and black; for shirts white, pale blue and ivory. Colors that are not available every season include the semi-basic ones such as rust brown, dark forest green, olive, powder blue and creamy tan. Yellow, pink, pale green and gray are semi-basic colors for shirts . Fashion colors are the season's newest colors. Howev-er, basic and some semi-basic colors are generally available and in the most abundance. Remember that basic or semi-basic colors please more people most of the time because they are easy on the eye. Skin tone, eyes and hair color determine the most becoming colors for the individual. Although authorities appear to agree that most men look good in gray suits, the best color depends upon personal color. Keep in mind that no single color is necessarily good nor bad; it is only when a color is worn in combination that makes it pleasing, dull or boring. Color has many qualities - light or darkness, brightness or dullness and, in the case of gray, could have a blue or yellow cast . Try on several garments in one color family to find your best color. Authorities suggest the following color families for specific skin tones, hair and eye color. Use these as a general guide to select your most becoming color. Keep in mind that line, style, texture , pattern as well as color affect the total image. Consult the chart with your body dimensions for those design suggestions. Suppose you are faced with purchasing a new suit, have a small wardrobe, and limited budget. The answer would be to keep a narrow color focus. If the one and only suit you have is blue, then don't select brown for a second suit. Select a gray suit (providing it looks good on you) because many of the items you have in your existing wardrobe will coordinate such as shirts, ties, belts and shoes. Purchasing a brown suit automatically necessitates brown dress shoes and a belt. Putting It All Together "Colors , patterns and combinations of clothing that scored the highest with the largest majority of the population were traditional and conservative," according to John Molloy author of Dress for Success. In the Blackwell and Kernaleguen study men's fabric preferences from best to least liked were plain, smooth, shade , small design, textured, tint, large design and patterned fabrics. Most people tire quickly of large designs and bright colors and we have a tendency to remember someone dressed like that for what he was wearing rather than he just looked well put together. Keep in mind some of the most successful businessmen have worn conservative clothing for years and probably will continue to do so for many more years . Basic Color Guidelines Hair Eyes Suggested Basic Colors* Brown Brown Brown, Beige and Gray Brown Blue Brown, Blue and Gray Black Blue Blue, Gray Gray Blue Gray, Blue Gray Brown Gray, Brown Red Brown Brown, Gray Red Blue Gray, Blue Blond Brown Brown, Gray Blond Blue Brown, Blue *Select suit colors that are lighter or darker than hair color. Problem Skin Tones Skin Tone Sallow (yellowish cast) Ruddy Pale skin Tanned or dark Colors to A void Gold, Green, Gray with Yellow overtones Reddish brown, Greens Tan, Grayish greens Colors of similar darkness; select lighter colors than skin tone . Consult the chart on Body Dimensions and use those guidelines to help build becoming combinations for you. There are common pitfalls that people make in combining colors, lines, patterns, style and textures. Let's examine those and keep them in mind when putting together a good looking outfit. The two most common errors in combining color are either those that clash or are so similar they fade into one another. The fading problem reminds one of listening to a monotone voice- there's no variation, no excitement and little imagination . Rather than a beige suit , white shirt and tan print tie, consider the same beige suit with a pale beige and faint green stripe shirt and raspberry tie. This could be garish and clash if the stripes were bold and grass green and the tie more red than raspberry. But, with taste and imagination, it is interesting but not memorable . Overlooking the lines within the garment is the second common error. Lines should travel one direction and should progress in size. When similar patterns are worn together contrast as well as balance should be considered. If the suit is a fine pinstripe, the shirt could have a slightly larger stripe with the tie carrying the boldest stripe of the three. When the same design family The classic blue blazer can be worn for dressy occasions. is used such as line, every pattern should be arranged on a descending scale to create contrast . Three different patterns can be coordinated but it requires skill and imagination. Plaid jacket, striped shirt and a polka dot tie rarely are coordinated successfully. When combining dissimilar patterns one pattern should dominate; the other patterns should be softer and more neutral to buffer the pattern mixtures. Keep in mind that more intense colors create a stronger pattern . A beige jacket with a soft brown and black overplaid can carry a bolder shirt and tie than the same beige jacket in a rich maroon and black overplaid . A frequently overlooked element in garment coordi-nation is fabric texture. Corduroy, wool tweed, linen, silk and cashmere can turn a dull outfit into one with a very pleasing effect . Combining colors in the same family creates interesting results when textures are varied . A camel colored pair of gabardine trousers , corduroy sport jacket and wool knit tie are more interesting than tan gabardine trousers, sport jacket and challis tie . As with any other combination, one texture should dominate, others be in lesser amounts and should be compatible . The cut (silhouette) and fabric determine garment style. Quickly one has a sense of formality or casualness . There is very little crossing over in men's wear. But, shirts and ties can be switched between suits or sportswear with caution. A knit wool tie suitable for a corduroy sport The blue blazer is a versatile item that can also be worn for casual purposes. jacket doesn't work with a pin stripe suit. The navy blazer is perhaps one versatile item that can be dressed up or down and still be appropriate. More conservative clothing consultants would sug-gest these guidelines in wardrobe coordination: 1. Never place two different patterns next to each other. 2. Wear two plains and one fancy such as a gray suit, light blue shirt and paisley tie. 3. Wear a basic color suit (gray, navy, brown) with a lighter accent color shirt and brighter tie . 4. Wear light with dark and dark with light . Darker suits look better with lighter shirts and ties; lighter suits, with darker shirts and ties. 5. Select ties that match or contrast with shirts and do not clash with suits . What Is Appropriate? Dressing for various occupations and social occasions run from being very precise to non-existent . When unsure of the situation and the opportunity for observation doesn't exist , ask someone who should know. It is much better to ask than be uncomfortable and inappropriately evaluated . Sportswear is quite acceptable for many occupations and social occasions. Due to the flexibility of sportswear, it can be slightly informal or extremely casual. A navy Line Color Texture Style Pattern BODY DIMENSION CHART Short Accentuate up and down lines . Jacket must be correct length, hem should be even with thumb knuckles. Vents accent vertical line. Avoid pocket flaps . Choose one overall color. Avoid contrasts between jacket and trousers . Select smooth types, sharkskin, gabardine, clear faced worsteds, soft tweeds and knits. Single breasted preferred; 2 or 3 button style. Make sure you have a long lapel line . Avoid wide lapels . Slightly built-up shoulders add height. Narrow stripes and herringbones . Miniature muted plaid. Tall Contrasts in color of jacket and trousers will reduce apparent heig ht. Avoid narrow, prominent vertical stnpes. Color contrasts will reduce height. Dark top will add weight and decrease apparent size . Textured fabrics are great, cheviots, twists, tweeds, shetlands and flannels. Two or three button suits with wide spacing. Moderate rolled lapels. Jacket accent width, double breasted or Edwardian. Shoulders should be squared . Waist fit loose . Pocket flaps good. Subtle plaids are good . Checks, herring bones must be widely spaced and in soft tones. Heavy Emphasize vertical line use subtle vertical stripes, one color schemes, loose fit. A shorter jacket will make the legs appear longer. Sleeves should be tapered. Fitted jacket better. One-color scheme. Avoid pale or bright colors as it increases apparent size. Use medium to dark value colors. Smooth fabrics avoid heavy fabrics or light weight that crease easily. Neatness very important . 3 button suit will add height. Avoid a wide lapel to reduce horizontal effect. A long roll lapel stresses the vertical line. Muted tweed, faint plaid. Use no more than two patterns, too much contrast breaks up vertical line. Thin Details that increase body width -pleats and cuffed trousers ; peaked/ wide lapels fill out the chest. Bright, light, warm colors help fill out the body. Very dark/very light combinations stress height; light/bright combinations are desirable. Bulky fabrics add width use wide-wale corduroy, tweed, cheviot, tweeds, flannel. Double breasted with wide lapels. Avoid sack-like styles, but an easy fit is better than too tig ht. Vests add bulk. Avoid obvious stripes, use fabrics that add width, such as plaids. blazer worn with gray slacks with appropriate shirt and tie could be informal; the same blazer could be worn with blue jeans and be quite casual. Cut, fit, price and sizing make sportswear popular. With suits, trousers invariably wear out before the jacket and the practice of providing two pairs is not common today. But with a sports jacket, several pair of trousers can be coordinated and the jacket's life increased. A sports jacket and pair of trousers are generally less expensive than a business suit; it is difficult to generalize as there is an extensive price range for both suits and sportswear. Cut, fit and sizing for sportswear differs from the business suit. Sportswear (slacks, vests and jackets) are sized and sold separately, which helps with fitting problems. Sportswear slacks are sold by waist and inseam measurement and cut with less ease than suit trousers. They are not necessarily designed to be worn with a jacket. Coordinating sportswear involves the same principles as those discussed with business suits, shirts and ties. Since sportswear is purchased by the piece you might have a tendency to get a piece in every color. Think about the image you want to project - you want to look pulled together not multi-colored. Keep your body proportions in mind to determine if you should select contrasting slacks and jacket. Will a vest give an appearance of a ten-pound weight gain:> Does a single breasted sports coat look better on you than a double-breasted blue blazer? Review your body proportions and recommended garment designs. Above all remember only one feature should dominate-either color, pattern, line or texture . References Blackwell, Lorna and Kernaleguen, Anne. "Men's Fabric Preferences Related to Age, Inherent Color Vision and Perceptual Disembedding Ability. " Pemptllal and Motor Skills, October 1980: 5 l (2) 551-557. "Esquire's Wear and Care Guide." New York: Vol. I No. 1, 1972. Gist, Noel P. and Fava , Sylvia Fleis. Urban Society . New York: Thomas Y. Crowell Co., 1974. Hix, Charles. How to Dress Your Man. New York: Crown Publishers, Inc., 1981. Levi Strauss and Company. "The Whole Man Handbook." San Francisco, 1978. Levitt, Mortimer. The Executive Look. New York: Athene-um. 1981. Margerum, B. Jean, Walker, Norma E. and Kernaleguen, Anne. "Men's Clothing Practices." Jo11mal of Hmm Economics. January 1977 , 39-40. Molloy, John T. Dress For Success. New York: Warner Books. 1975. Rola, Charles J. "A Man's Guide to Dressing Well For Business. " Money. February 1982, 85-92. Apparel items and models courtesy of Puckett's Men's Wear, Columbia, Mo. ■ Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Leonard C. Douglas, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Missouri and Lincoln University, Columbia, Missouri 65211. ■ An equal opportunity institution. File: Clothing and Textiles 6/82/BM 

Men's wear : body dimensions and wardrobe coordination

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Men's wear : body dimensions and wardrobe coordination

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