Datsko, O.I.

SocioEconomic Challenges Journal (Sumy State University)

Using natural dyes in ukrainian lizhnyck’s textile crafts: ecological aspect 
 
O.I. Datsko 
Lviv National academy of arts, Ukraine 
 
There are some unic textile crafts in Ukraine. One of the famous of them is the Carpathian lizhnyck’s 
craftcentre. A lizhnyck is a handmade carpet weaved from woolen yarn, specially kneaded and carded, decorated in 
traditional mays. But there are many problems appeared in this craftcentre during last 20 years: political, 
economical, ecological and technological. Among the ecological and technological problems the main are using 
synthetic dyestaffs for dyeing wool, and as a result, it courses decreasing of quality level of produced lyzhnycks, 
pollution of environment etc. Also is a problem to preserve this textile craft with ethnical peculiarity and ecological 
safty for environment, becourse using of synthetic dyes coursed deterioration of colouristic design of lizhnycks and 
pollution of springs and rivers of this region by toxic deviation of dyeing process. 
That’s why in 1998 in Javoriv village Ivano Frankivska region started long-term project, named “Ecologacal 
perspective”, the main aim of which was to revive traditional producing of lizhnycks, including 100% acceptable in 
ecological term, on the basis of that traditions. Such traditional textile, like lizhnycks, should be made of ecological 
wool and, preferably, be hand-woven fabrics that have been dyed witn natural dyestaffs taking into account 
ecological requirement. Also using of synthetic dyestaffs coursed, that traditional ethnic decoration of lizhnycks 
became to lose. 
During eight years the planaries had been held in Javoriv (within project “Ecological perspective”), many 
professinal artists and craftsmen had taken part in this project. The scientists, among them the author, conducted 
researches of properties of natural dyes, suggested by them for deying wool, which had been used for making 
lizhnycks. But the safty of fabrics and yarn, dyed with natural dyes, during dyeing process heavy metals are used 
like mordants, isn’t confirmed in many cases and must be researched. Many of natural dyes, being used abroud are 
tested on ecological safety and as dyeing process such dyed textile materials correspond to all ecological demands 
and to be concidered ecofriendly. In Ukraine many natural dyes and methods of dyeing must be tested on their’s 
ecosafety. Some of them are confirm to ecological standards. The natural dyes, proposed for dyeing lizhnyck’s wool 
were mainly extracts from plants: Allium Cepa, Chamaenerium angustifolium, Rumex confertus, Frangula alnus and 
many other. But the main aim of pleneries was to use plants, widespread in the Carpathian region, which have high 
expluatation characteristics and to elaborate ecofrendly technologies of dyeing with natural dyes.  
Many of plant dyes and methods, proposed for dyeing wool during long-term project “Ecological perspective”, 
allowed to receive coloured wool and lizhnycks, which confirm to ecological standard ECO-TEX-100 (the safty of 
textile material) and use ecological friendly technologies of wool dyeing. Was also estimated stability of colours of 
many textile materials, dyed with plant dyes. Almost all of them have hight light resistance, resistance to dry 
cleaning, heat stability etc. Many of researched dyes were reccomended for dyeing textile materials, especially wool 
for lizhnycks making. 
That’s why during “Ecological perspective” were held master-classes of dyeing with natural dyes. The 
scientists and professors teached the participants of planairies and craftsmen of wool dyeing methods. 
The main results of long-term work of reviving dyeing with natural dyes in Javoriv during “Ecological 
perspective” are: 
- Reviving using of natural dyes in lizhnycks textile craft in Javoriv region; 
- Using for colouring wool plant dyes widespread in this region of Carpathian mountings, which have good 
exploitational propeties; 
- Proposed methods of dyeing of lizhnyck’s wool with natural dyes allowed to decrease pollution of 
environtment;  
- Liznycks, had been made from wool coloured with natural dyes, had better design, the assortment of this 
products became much more various as in was some years before; 
- Lizhnycks, coloured with natural dyes much more correspond to traditional decoratin of this products of 
textile craft then synthetic ones; 
- Colours, received by natural dyes on textile materils are “soft”, “not aggressive” and make the man in 
harmony with the elements of interier, clothes etc. 
- Using dyeing of textile with natural dyes like element of merketing strategy for promotion of product of 
lizhnyck’s textile craft. 
The introdution of dyeing technolologies with natural dyes in practice of craftmen and professional artists is an 
example of effective strategy reviving and preserving national textile crafts according to ecological policy of state. 
 


Using natural dyes in ukrainian lizhnyck’s textile crafts: ecological aspect

Electronic Sumy State University Institutional Repository

Using natural dyes in ukrainian lizhnyck’s textile crafts: ecological aspect  O.I. Datsko Lviv National academy of arts, Ukraine  There are some unic textile crafts in Ukraine. One of the famous of them is the Carpathian lizhnyck’s craftcentre. A lizhnyck is a handmade carpet weaved from woolen yarn, specially kneaded and carded, decorated in traditional mays. But there are many problems appeared in this craftcentre during last 20 years: political, economical, ecological and technological. Among the ecological and technological problems the main are using synthetic dyestaffs for dyeing wool, and as a result, it courses decreasing of quality level of produced lyzhnycks, pollution of environment etc. Also is a problem to preserve this textile craft with ethnical peculiarity and ecological safty for environment, becourse using of synthetic dyes coursed deterioration of colouristic design of lizhnycks and pollution of springs and rivers of this region by toxic deviation of dyeing process. That’s why in 1998 in Javoriv village Ivano Frankivska region started long-term project, named “Ecologacal perspective”, the main aim of which was to revive traditional producing of lizhnycks, including 100% acceptable in ecological term, on the basis of that traditions. Such traditional textile, like lizhnycks, should be made of ecological wool and, preferably, be hand-woven fabrics that have been dyed witn natural dyestaffs taking into account ecological requirement. Also using of synthetic dyestaffs coursed, that traditional ethnic decoration of lizhnycks became to lose. During eight years the planaries had been held in Javoriv (within project “Ecological perspective”), many professinal artists and craftsmen had taken part in this project. The scientists, among them the author, conducted researches of properties of natural dyes, suggested by them for deying wool, which had been used for making lizhnycks. But the safty of fabrics and yarn, dyed with natural dyes, during dyeing process heavy metals are used like mordants, isn’t confirmed in many cases and must be researched. Many of natural dyes, being used abroud are tested on ecological safety and as dyeing process such dyed textile materials correspond to all ecological demands and to be concidered ecofriendly. In Ukraine many natural dyes and methods of dyeing must be tested on their’s ecosafety. Some of them are confirm to ecological standards. The natural dyes, proposed for dyeing lizhnyck’s wool were mainly extracts from plants: Allium Cepa, Chamaenerium angustifolium, Rumex confertus, Frangula alnus and many other. But the main aim of pleneries was to use plants, widespread in the Carpathian region, which have high expluatation characteristics and to elaborate ecofrendly technologies of dyeing with natural dyes.  Many of plant dyes and methods, proposed for dyeing wool during long-term project “Ecological perspective”, allowed to receive coloured wool and lizhnycks, which confirm to ecological standard ECO-TEX-100 (the safty of textile material) and use ecological friendly technologies of wool dyeing. Was also estimated stability of colours of many textile materials, dyed with plant dyes. Almost all of them have hight light resistance, resistance to dry cleaning, heat stability etc. Many of researched dyes were reccomended for dyeing textile materials, especially wool for lizhnycks making. That’s why during “Ecological perspective” were held master-classes of dyeing with natural dyes. The scientists and professors teached the participants of planairies and craftsmen of wool dyeing methods. The main results of long-term work of reviving dyeing with natural dyes in Javoriv during “Ecological perspective” are: - Reviving using of natural dyes in lizhnycks textile craft in Javoriv region; - Using for colouring wool plant dyes widespread in this region of Carpathian mountings, which have good exploitational propeties; - Proposed methods of dyeing of lizhnyck’s wool with natural dyes allowed to decrease pollution of environtment;  - Liznycks, had been made from wool coloured with natural dyes, had better design, the assortment of this products became much more various as in was some years before; - Lizhnycks, coloured with natural dyes much more correspond to traditional decoratin of this products of textile craft then synthetic ones; - Colours, received by natural dyes on textile materils are “soft”, “not aggressive” and make the man in harmony with the elements of interier, clothes etc. - Using dyeing of textile with natural dyes like element of merketing strategy for promotion of product of lizhnyck’s textile craft. The introdution of dyeing technolologies with natural dyes in practice of craftmen and professional artists is an example of effective strategy reviving and preserving national textile crafts according to ecological policy of state.  

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Using natural dyes in ukrainian lizhnyck’s textile crafts: ecological aspect

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SocioEconomic Challenges Journal (Sumy State University)

Electronic Sumy State University Institutional Repository