University of Zagreb. Faculty of Textile Technology. Department of Fashion Design.
Abstract
Pojam identiteta je relativno nova, ali i nejasna pojava. U ovom radu proći ćemo kroz razvitak istoga od esencijalističkih shvaćanja identiteta kao nepromjenjivog do novih shvaćanja sebe kao performera. U doba figuracije života i fluidnih identiteta u tvorbi identiteta kao refleksivnom projektu pronalaženja osobnog identiteta otvara se prostor daljnjem razvitku svijesti o slobodi, koji se možda krije upravo u modi i njezinoj tendenciji da uvijek iznova izmiče pravilima. Ipak, postoji bojazan da cijeli identitet svedemo na maske kojima se prikazujemo. Identitet i izgled su povezani, ali ne i sinonimi. Sada smo u novim problemima, moguće i težim od klasne represije-u represiji kulture. Sloboda se izjednačava s odgovornošću i tijelo se regulira na mnoge suptilne načine. Za feminističke ideje i ideale to je posebno opasno jer se sloboda praktički svodi na razlog za kupovinu. Ako suvremena moda nema prostor, ni vrijeme, nego mrežu i vječno sada, tijelo je jedino što nam preostaje te će nam ono biti nit kojom ćemo se voditi u pokušaju pronalaska smisla.The concept of identity is a relatively new but unclear phenomenon. In this paper, we will go through the development of the same from the essentialist conceptions of identity as unchangeable to the new understanding of ourselves as performers. At the time of figuration of life and fluid identities in the creation of identity as a reflexive project of finding a personal one, space is further created for the development of the consciousness of freedom, which may be hidden in the fashion and its tendency to always re-emerge from the rules. However, there is a fear that we will allow our identity to be reduced on the masks we are depicting. Identity and appearance are related, but not synonyms. We are now facing new problems, possibly more difficult than class repression. These are the time of cultural repression. Freedom is equated with responsibility and the body is regulated in many subtle ways. For feminist ideas and ideals this is especially dangerous because freedom is virtually reduced to the reason for shopping. If modern fashion does not have space, time, but network and Eternal Now, the body is the only thing left to us and it will be the thread we are going to follow in our search for meaning
