Duble, Richard L.

English

Texas A&amp;M Repository

L-1889LAWN ESTABLISHMENTRichard L. Duble*A lawn, the single most important feature of awell-landscaped home, is often the first improvementa homeowner plans when moving into a new home.Although a lawn adds to the beauty of a home, itsprimary purpose is functional rather than aesthetic. Alawn prevents soil erosion, reduces runoff, lowerstemperatures around the house, reduces glare anddust and helps muffle noise. In addition, it providesinexpensive, non-abrasive and attractive recreationalareas.Proper selection and establishment of turfgrasseswill help the homeowner maintain an attractive andfunctional lawn and keep the cost of maintenancedown.Three distinct steps are necessary in the establish-ment of a new lawn. First is preparation of theseedbed which involves grading, providing drainage,soil modification and fertilization. Second is the estab-lishment of the grass which involves seeding, sprig-ging or sodding. And, third is the care and mainte-nance of the young grass during the first 2 to 4 weeksafter planting.Preparing the SeedbedAs the foundat~on is the strength of a building, theseedbed is the support of a lawn. The seedbed refersto the few surface inches of soil that are modified priorto planting. Poor soil conditions, like a faulty founda-tion, result in continuous lawn maintenance problemsfor homeowners. To prepare a seedbed, first removeall debris such as large stones, wood or other trashthat may have been left after construction. ext, thenature of the soil may need to be altered. A sandyloam soil high in organic matter is best for turf. If theoriginal surface soil is a heavy clay or a fine sand, add*Extension turfgrass specialist, The Texas A&M UniversitySystem.25.14organic matter to improve soil structure. This organicmaterial can be peat, compost, decomposed gin trash,bark or sawdust (preferably hardwood), leaf mold orsimilar material. Thoroughly mix 1 inch of organicmatter with the top 3 to 4 inches of soil to produce auniform seedbed. This mixing can be done by re-peated cultivation with a garden tiller or with a tractorand rotovator.When adding undecomposed organic matter tothe soil, also add 3 pounds of ammonium nitrate or 5pounds of ammonium sulfate per 1,000 sq. ft. to aiddecomposition of the organic material.In areas of the state with acid soils, add groundagricultural limestone at a rate of 50 to 100 poundsper 1,000 sq. ft. of surface. Limestone, like theorganic materials, should be rototilled into the top 3to 4 inches of soil.Adding FertilizerTexas soils are deficient in the major nutrientsrequired for turf. East Texas soils normally are defi-cient in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime. Inthe blackland areas of the state, nitrogen and phos-phorus are not adequate for good turf development.Potassium in the soil may become deficient for turfgrowth when high amounts of nitrogen are used inareas not normally deficient in potassium.If possible, base rates and combinations of fertiliz-er nutrients on the results (,1 soil tests. In the absenceof a soil test, apply a complete fertilizer to the surfaceof the seedbed. Apply a fertilizer with a 1-2-1 (10-20-10, 6-12-6) or 1-1-1 (8-8-8) ratio at a rate to supply 2pounds of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet of lawn(see Table 1). On soils naturally high in potassium,use a fertilizer containing only nitrogen and phos-phorus. See Table 1 for fertilizer equivalents andrates.Texas Agricultural Extension Service. The Texas A&M University System. Daniel C. Pfannstiel, Director. College Station, Texas-... <,,'.TABLE 1. Percent Nutrients in Various Commercial Fertilizers and Recommended Rates of Application for Turf EstablishmentFertilizerGrade18-8-86-12-610-20-1012-6-66-10-412-9-616-20-0Ratio ofFertilizer AnaJysis (Percent2)Amount to apply toplant food Elemental provide 2 lb. phos-nutrients nitrogen P20 S K20 phorus per 1,000 sq. ft.1-1-1 8 8 8 251-2-1 6 12 6 161-2-1 10 20 10 102-1-1 12 6 6 333-5-2 6 10 4 204-3-2 12 9 6 224-5-0 16 20 0 1010ther fertilizer materials are available and can be used. The amount needed to supply 2 pounds of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet from any fertilizer canbe calculated in the following manner: the phosphorus content of the fertilizer divided into 100 gives the amount of fertilizer needed to supply 1 pound ofphosphorus. Thus, doubling the figure gives the amount required to supply 2 pounds of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet. For example: In the case of 8-8-8,8 into 100 equals 12.5; thus 12.5 pounds of 8-8-8 are required to supply 1 pound of phosphorus; 25 pounds of 8-8-8 are required to supply 2 pounds ofphosphorus per 1,000 square feet.20r pounds of nutrients per 100 pounds of fertilizer.3Length times width of lawn equals square feet. For example, a lawn 50 feet long and 20 feet wide contains 1,000 square feet.Grass Variety Common bermudagrasscontainers in lots over 10 pounds. Low-priced seed isoften the most costly because it may have a lowpercent germination and purity. Purchase seed on thebasis of percent "Pure Live Seed," which is theproduct of the percent purity and the percent germi-nation. For example, common bermudagrass seedwith 85 percent germination and 98 percent puritycontains 83 percent "pure live seed." In contrast,common bermudagrass with only 80 percent germina-tion and 85 percent purity contains only 68 percent"pure live seed."Although seed can be sown by hand, it is better touse small seed distributors. Divide seed required fora specific area into two equal parts, one to be broad-cast as you walk back and forth in a given direction,the second to be sown as you walk at right angles tothe first seeding. This method provides uniform dis-tribution of seed (See Fig. 1).After seeding, water the area lightly and keep thesurface moist until a satisfactory stand of grass ap-pears. When seeding grasses with a creeping growthhabit such as bermudagrass, carpetgrass or centipede,seedlings on 2 to 4 inch centers provide a satisfactorystand. The time required to develop a satisfactory97.85%0.10%2.00%0.05%87%Pure SeedCrop SeedInertWeedsGermination 9/10/80Sample Seed TagGradingGrade the seedbed to provide surface drainageaway from the house, walks and driveways. A fall of 6inches for every 40 to 50 surface feet is adequate fordrainage, provided no pockets or depressions exist. Insome cases, subsurface drainage systems may beneeded to remove excess water from poorly drainedsites.If a considerable part of the lawn needs to befilled, use a loam or sandy loam soil. Repeated wet-ting of the filled site will help settle the soil.Avoid terraces, if possible, because of the difficul-ty of establishing and maintaining grass on steepslopes. If a lot slopes steeply, build retaining wallsrather than terraces. When trees are to remain in thelawn, grade the soil gradually away from the trunk. Ifa fill more than 2 or 3 inches above the existingsurface surrounding a tree is required, build a retain-ing wall with drainage to prevent covering tree roots.The wall should be constructed at least 4 to 6 feetfrom the trunk.The final step in seedbed preparation is raking thesurface to remove large clods and stones. At the sametime, fill depressions that have developed and levelhigh spots. Walks and driveways should be flush withthe final lawn surface. The site is now ready to beseeded, sprigged or sodded.Planting the GrassWhether to seed, sprig or sod the lawn dependson the type of grass used and the rapidity of coverdesired. Table 2 shows the type of planting materialto be used, method of planting, quantities neededand best season to plant for each grass.SeedingGrass seed for lawns should have a high percentgermination and purity. Information on germinationand purity is required by state law to be on all seedstand will vary from 10 to 14 days, depending onclimatic conditions and grass variety.Figure 1 . Proper distribution of seed.Sprigging or PluggingSprigging or plugging refers to the setting of sto-lons, runners, rhizomes or small sod blocks (2 to 4inches square) in rows or by broadcasting on the soilsurface. Stolons, runners or rhizomes broadcast overan area give a quicker and more uniform cover thansod blocks or plugs set in rows. However, broadcastsprigs usually require more attention during the firstseveral weeks after planting.IncorrectFigure 2. Do not cover sprigs too dee1~ly;'leave part ofthe sprig (or stolon) above the soil level.Lawns should be sprigged in the spring, thoughthey may be sprigged at any time during the growingseason when adequate moisture is available. Theproper distance between sod blocks or sprigs dependson grass species and how soon a cover is desired. St.Augustine grass plugs 2 to 4 inches in diameter,planted on 2-foot centers, should cover within 3months if adequately watered and fertilized. Bermu-dagrass sprigs broadcast at 3 to 5 bushels per 1,000square feet should cover within 2 months; zoysia mayrequire an entire growing season. After spriggingbermudagrass or zoysia, cover the sprigs with a thinlayer of topsoil or mulch. Pack and roll sod blocks orsprigs firmly into the soil to leave a smooth surface formowing.Figure 3. Stagger spacing of grass plugs to helpcontrol erosion.SoddingSodding is the laying of solid blocks of sod directlyover a prepared seedbed. Sodding provides an instantlawn and overcomes many of the problems associatedwith starting a new lawn. Solid sodding a lawn elimi-nates weeds, soil erosion, mud, and, in many cases,the need for replanting. When sodding a lawn, lay sodblocks like brick on a smooth surface that has beenfirmed by rolling. The smface should be free offootprints, stones, depressions, and mounds. Afterthe sod is laid, roll the sod lightly and keep it moistuntil it is well-rooted. Then, topdress with a sandyloam topsoil that is free of trash, stones and otherdebris to smooth the surface.Figure 4. Lay sod slightly belme the level of concretecurb or walks. Stagger sod strips or rolls to reduceerosion.Purchase Texas certified sprigs or sod to insurethat you get the variety of grass you request andthe quality of sod you should plant. The TexasDepartment of Agriculture inspects certified sodfields to guarantee varietal purity and to maintainquality standards. Poor quality sod contains weedsand other grasses that delay development of auniform lawn and increase maintenance costs. Pay-ing a premium price for certified or high qualitysod is less expensive in the long run than plantingpoor quality, but "cheaper" sod.Care after EstablishmentWater newly-established turf areas regularly. Wa-ter lightly and frequently to prevent the surface fromdrying. As the young seedlings develop, or as thesprigs or sod begin to take root and spread, reducethe frequency of watering and increase the amountapplied per watering. This permits the developmentof a d ep root system and ultimately reduces theamount of water needed.The time to mow will depend on the species plant-ed. Mow newly turfed areas as soon as the grass is 1Y2to 2 inches high. Clip lawns frequently enough toprevent removing more than half of the growth at anyone mowing.Fertilize newly planted turfgrasses once a monthwith a complete fertilizer, at a rate equivalent to 1pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Follow soiltest recommendations, but in the absence of thisinformation a I-I-lor 2-1-1 ratio fertilizer should beused. On sandy textured soils during grass establish-ment, supplement the complete fertilizer with anadditional pound of nitrogen between applications.Use ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate or urea forthe nitrogen source. Water after each application offertilizer.ewly planted lawns are likely to become weedybefore the area is covered with grass. Control weedsby frequent mowing, adequate fertilization and judi-cious use of water. Where weed eradication is neces-sary, the safest method is hand weeding. Use ofchemicals for weed control is discussed in MP-1062BSuggestions for Weed Control With Chemicals-Landscape Horticulture.TABLE 2. Types of Planting Material, Methods, Rates and Times of PlantingGrass Species Established from Method of Planting Quantity per 1,000 Best Planting Seasonsq. ft.Seed Broadcast '/2 to 1 lb. -Sprig 6" apart inBermudagrass Sprigs 12" rows or broad- 5 to 10 sq. ft. of Spring and earlycast nursery sod summerSod Solid-lay as bricks Same as area to besoddedSod Solid-lay as bricks Same as area to besoddedSt. Augustine 2" blocks on 12" Sod blocks: 30 sq. Spring and early2" sod blocks or run- centers; runners ft. of nursery sod summerners planted on 12" cen- Runners: 3 to 6 sq.ters ft. of nursery sodTreated seed Broadcast % to % lb.Buffalograss 2" sod blocks On 1% to 2 ft. cen- 25 to 50 sq. ft. of Springters nursery sodSeed Broadcast % to 1 lb. SpringCentipede Shredded sod (sprigs) Sprig 6" apart in 5 to 10 sq. ft. of Spring and early fallor 2" sod blocks 12" rows nursery sodSprigs or 2" sod Sprig 2" apart in 40 to 45 sq. ft. of Spring and earlyZoysia blocks 6" rows in a clean nursery sod summerseedbedRyegrass Seed Broadcast 6 to Sib. Sept. to Nov.Tall fescue Seed Broadcast 6 to Sib. Sept. to Nov.Kentucky bluegrass Seed Broadcast 1% to 2 lb. Sept. to Nov.Educational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service serve people ofall ages regardless of socioeconomic level racecolor, sex, religion or national origin. ' ,Coo.perative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, The Texas A&M University System and the United States Department ofAgnculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914.30M-1-82 TURF 4

Lawn Establishment.

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Lawn Establishment.

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Lawn Establishment.

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