Bjerregaard, Lena

Peters, Ann H.

English

DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska

University of Nebraska - LincolnDigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - LincolnPreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas deTextiles PreColombinos VII Centre for Textile Research11-10-2017Introduction, contents, coversLena BjerregaardUniversity of Copenhagen, bjerregaardlena@aol.comAnn H. PetersUniversity of Pennsylvania, ann.h.peters@gmail.comFollow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/pct7Part of the Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Chicana/o Studies Commons, Fiber,Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Indigenous Studies Commons, Latina/o Studies Commons,Museum Studies Commons, Other History of Art, Architecture, and Archaeology Commons, andthe Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures CommonsThis Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Centre for Textile Research at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It hasbeen accepted for inclusion in PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII by an authorized administrator ofDigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln.Bjerregaard, Lena and Peters, Ann H., "Introduction, contents, covers" (2017). PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas deTextiles PreColombinos VII. 4.http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/pct7/4PreColumbian Textile Conference VIIJornadas de Textiles  PreColombinos VIICentre for Textile ResearchUniversity of Copenhagen 2016Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters, editors Contents: Introduction — Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters  • Mexico • 1. Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts — Laura Filloy Nadal • 2. Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México — Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres • 3. Los textiles procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio desde la perspectiva arqueológica y et-nohistórica — Elizabeth Jiménez García • 4. Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological context and conservation issues — Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela • 5. Textiles y otros mate-riales arqueológicos del valle de Tehuacán, México, en los Museos reales de Arte e Historia (MRAH), Bruselas — Julia Montoya • 6. The World on a Whorl: Considerations on Aztec Spindle Whorl Iconography — Jesper Nielsen  • 7. Mex-ica Textiles: Archaeological Remains from the Sacred Precincts of Tenochtitlan and Tlatelolco — Leonardo López Luján & Salvador Guilliem Arroyo  • Peru  • 8. Andean Textile Traditions: Material Knowledge and Culture, Part 1  — Elena Phipps  • 9. Introduction into the history of the textile collection at the Ethnological Museum Berlin — Beatrix Hoff-mann • 10. Archaeological Textiles of Sechín Bajo – a formative Site of the North Coast of Peru: Preliminarily Results — Katalin Nagy  • 11. Headdress forms in the Paracas Necrópolis Mortuary Tradition — Ann H. Peters  • 12. Nasca Tex-tiles of south Peru, Los Molinos, Sector B. Analysis and Insights  — Dr. Daniela Biermann • 13. Pre-Columbian Textile Structures at Castillo de Huarmey, Peru — Aleksandra Laszczka, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser, & Miłosz Giersz • 14. The cu-rious case of Sir Henry Wellcome’s wooden statuette clad in tie-dyed Wari cloth — Penelope Dransart • 15. Tocados del Horizonte Medio al Intermedio Tardío en la costa central: Una visión desde el valle de Asia, Perú (Siglos VII-XII d.C.) — Rommel Angeles Falcón • 16. Hallazgo de una Ofrenda Textil con material Horizonte Tardío e Inca Local en el valle medio de Pisco — Luis Peña Callirgos • 17. Trajes de poder. Los conjuntos Chimú con borlas — Victòria Solanilla • 18. Structure, Design, and Gender in Inka Textiles — Blenda Femenías • 19. Lambayeque Textile Iconography and its Continuity in Chimu and Inca Cultures, and its link to modern Ecuadorian Pujilí Corpus Christi Celebrations — Yvonne Fleitman & Alisa Baginski • 20. La imagen divina y el simbolismo religioso en textiles del Antiguo Perú — Uwe Carlson • Conservation, reconstruction, analyses  • 21. Provenance investigations of raw materials in pre-Columbian textiles from Pachacamac; strontium isotope analyses — Karin Margarita Frei & Lena Bjerregaard • 22. Analysis of Paracas fi-bre material from the Gothenburg Collection — Anna Javér • 23. La conservación de dos fardos funerarios provenientes de contextos arqueológicos: El caso de la cueva del Lazo, Ocozocoautla, Chiapas y la cueva de la Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México — Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela • 24. The Arizona Openwork (Tonto) Shirt Project — Carol JamesTextile  fragment  from  Cueva  de  la  Candelaria, cortesey of INAH.  Image by Proyecto de Digitalización de las colecciones del Museo Nacional de Antropología, INAH-Canon.  Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional De Antropología e Historia, MéxicoZea BooksLincoln, Nebraskaisbn 978-1-60962-115-5doi: 10.13014/K2X63K311PreColumbian Textile Conference VIIJornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIICentre for Textile ResearchUniversity of Copenhagen 2016Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters, editors Zea BooksLincoln, Nebraska 2017All articles are copyright © 2017 by their authors.Compilation copyright © 2017 Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen.isbn 978-1-60962-115-5doi: 10.13014/K2X63K31Cover image: Textile  fragment  from  Cueva  de  la  Candelaria, cortesey of INAH.Image by Proyecto de Digitalización de las colecciones del Museo Nacional de Antropología, INAH-Canon.  Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional De Antropología e Historia, México.Title page image, chapter 20, fig. 28: Imagen divina dual, textil Paracas, Lavalle “Tejidos milenarios  del Peru”, 1999, pp.166/167, dibujo Uwe Carlson. This page, chapter 20, fig. 15: Rosto felínico, objeto  en oro de la colección de Dumbarton Oaks, “Andean Art at Dumbarton Oaks”, 1996, p. 67, dibujo Uwe Carlson. Composed in Sitka types, with Matura numerals.Zea Books are published by the University of Nebraska–Lincoln Libraries.Electronic (pdf) edition available online at http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/zeabook/Print edition available from http://www.lulu.com/spotlight/unlibUNL does not discriminate based upon any protected status.Please go to unl.edu/nondiscrimination3ContentsIntroduction .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .  5 Lena Bjerregaard & Ann PetersMexico1  Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts  .    .    .    .    .    .  7 Laura Filloy Nadal2  Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   40 Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres3  Los textiles procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio  desde la perspectiva arqueológica y etnohistórica   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .    50 Elizabeth Jiménez García4  Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological context and  conservation issues  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .    68 Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela5  Textiles y otros materiales arqueológicos del valle de Tehuacán, México, en los Museos reales  de Arte e Historia (MRAH), Bruselas    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  104 Julia Montoya6  The World on a Whorl: Considerations on Aztec Spindle Whorl Iconography  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   132  Jesper Nielsen7  Mexica Textiles: Archaeological Remains from the Sacred Precincts of Tenochtitlan and Tlatelolco .   .   .   141 Leonardo López Luján & Salvador Guilliem ArroyoPeru8  Andean Textile Traditions: Material Knowledge and Culture, Part 1  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   162 Elena Phipps9  Introduction into the history of the textile collection at the Ethnological Museum Berlin  .   .   .   .   .   .   176	 Beatrix	Hoffmann10  Archaeological Textiles of Sechín Bajo – a formative Site of the North Coast of Peru:  Preliminarily Results.   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   191 Katalin Nagy11  Headdress forms in the Paracas Necrópolis Mortuary Tradition  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   214 Ann H. Peters12  Nasca Textiles of south Peru, Los Molinos, Sector B. Analysis and Insights    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  238 Daniela Biermann413  Pre-Columbian Textile Structures at Castillo de Huarmey, Peru  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   253	 Aleksandra	Laszczka,	Jeffrey	C.	Splitstoser,	&	Miłosz	Giersz14  The curious case of Sir Henry Wellcome’s wooden statuette clad in tie-dyed Wari cloth   .   .   .   .   .   .   259 Penelope Dransart15  Tocados del Horizonte Medio al Intermedio Tardío en la costa central: Una visión desde  el valle de Asia, Perú (Siglos VII-XII d.C.)  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   277 Rommel Angeles Falcón16  Hallazgo de una Ofrenda Textil con material Horizonte Tardío e Inca Local en el valle  medio de Pisco.   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   . 308 Luis Peña Callirgos17  Trajes de poder. Los conjuntos Chimú con borlas .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   330 Victòria Solanilla18  Structure, Design, and Gender in Inka Textiles    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  341 Blenda Femenías19  Lambayeque Textile Iconography and its Continuity in Chimu and Inca Cultures, and  its link to modern Ecuadorian Pujilí Corpus Christi Celebrations   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   349 Yvonne Fleitman & Alisa Baginski20  La imagen divina y el simbolismo religioso en textiles del Antiguo Perú   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   361 Uwe Carlson Conservation, reconstruction, analyses21  Provenance investigations of raw materials in pre-Columbian textiles from Pachacamac;  strontium isotope analyses.   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  387 Karin Margarita Frei & Lena Bjerregaard22  Analysis of Paracas fibre material from the Gothenburg Collection  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .  398 Anna Javér23  La conservación de dos fardos funerarios provenientes de contextos arqueológicos:  El caso de la cueva del Lazo, Ocozocoautla, Chiapas y la cueva de la Candelaria, Torreón,  Coahuila, México  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   405 Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela24  The Arizona Openwork (Tonto) Shirt Project .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   415 Carol James5IntroductionFrom May 31st to June 4th, 2016, the 7th International European conference on pre-Columbian textiles was held in Copenhagen. The conference was sponsored by Queen Margrethe and Prince Henriks Fundation, by Carlsberg-fondet and FKK in the Ministery of Research and Edu-cation in Denmark. It was hosted by the Centre for Tex-tile Research, Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen and organized by Lena Bjerregaard, assistant researcher at CTR.The European conference on pre-Columbian textiles was founded in 1999  by Dr. Victòria Solanilla, who orga-nized the first five international meetings with support from the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona and Insti-tut Català de Cooperació Iberoamericana, as well as the Museu Textil de Terrassa. Five volumes of papers from these conferences (Actas de las Jornadas Internaciona-les de Textiles Precolombinos I – V) have been published by the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona, Departament d’Art, from 2000 to 2011.The 6th conference, VI Colloque International sur les Textiles Amérindiens (2013), was organized by Sophie Desrosiers (École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales) and Paz Nuñez (Musée du Quai Branly) and held at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris. Papers from this confer-ence were published online in the journal Nuevo Mundo / Mundos Nuevos in two sections: Textiles amerindios. Investigaciones recientes: del presente al pasado y vice-versa / Amerindian Textiles. Recent Studies : from Pres-ent to Past and Conversely; Amerindian Textiles. Crossed Perspectives on Colors / Textiles amerindios. Diferentes perspectivas sobre los colores. The essays can be read on-line at: https://nuevomundo.revues.org/68800.The location of each European conference on pre-Co-lumbian textiles depends on the initiative of both individ-ual organizers and hosting institutions. The 7th meeting was held in Copenhagen, hosted by the Center for Textile Research. From the 34 papers presented at the Copenha-gen conference between May 31st and June 3rd, 2016, a se-lection were further developed by their authors and con-stitute the 24 articles presented in this volume.While the Jornadas have always included papers on textile practices from throughout the Americas, the Pre-Columbian Textile Conference VII for the first time has invited scholars representing national and international projects to talk about archaeological textile finds in Mex-ico. Ancient textile finds are relatively unusual in Mex-ico due to diverse climatic conditions not ideal for their preservation, but cave finds recovered throughout the 20th century have been preserved in regional museums and more recently conserved in the national conservation laboratory. This volume unites seven original articles on pre-Columbian textiles from Mexico, which compare in-formation on 20th century finds first described by Alba Guadelupe Mastache with that from previously unpub-lished finds and recently discovered contexts.A unique chapter presents the technical analysis and replication of a pre-Columbian tunic recovered in a cave site in Arizona, at the northern margins of the Meso-american interaction sphere.Thirteen articles on archaeological textiles from the central Andes include analysis of both textile assemblages preserved in museum collections and those recovered during recent fieldwork in archaeological sites of the An-dean desert coast. These include textile assemblages rep-resenting the Initial and Formative Periods, Paracas and Nasca contexts, the Middle Horizon, diverse late Interme-diate Period assemblages and emblematic Inca garments.It has been an exciting and very interesting process to edit these articles, and the editors thank all the authors for their fine, pleasurable and inspiring collaborations.April 1, 2017 Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters

Introduction, contents, covers

UNL | Libraries

University of Nebraska - Lincoln
DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln
PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de
Textiles PreColombinos VII Centre for Textile Research
11-10-2017
Introduction, contents, covers
Lena Bjerregaard
University of Copenhagen, bjerregaardlena@aol.com
Ann H. Peters
University of Pennsylvania, ann.h.peters@gmail.com
Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/pct7
Part of the Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Chicana/o Studies Commons, Fiber,
Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Indigenous Studies Commons, Latina/o Studies Commons,
Museum Studies Commons, Other History of Art, Architecture, and Archaeology Commons, and
the Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures Commons
This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Centre for Textile Research at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has
been accepted for inclusion in PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII by an authorized administrator of
DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln.
Bjerregaard, Lena and Peters, Ann H., "Introduction, contents, covers" (2017). PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de
Textiles PreColombinos VII. 4.
http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/pct7/4
PreColumbian Textile 
Conference VII
Jornadas de Textiles  
PreColombinos VII
Centre for Textile Research
University of Copenhagen 2016
Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters, editors 
Contents: Introduction — Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters  • Mexico • 1. Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An 
Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts — Laura Filloy Nadal • 2. Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. 
Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México — Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres • 3. Los textiles 
procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio desde la perspectiva arqueológica y et-
nohistórica — Elizabeth Jiménez García • 4. Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological 
context and conservation issues — Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela • 5. Textiles y otros mate-
riales arqueológicos del valle de Tehuacán, México, en los Museos reales de Arte e Historia (MRAH), Bruselas — Julia 
Montoya • 6. The World on a Whorl: Considerations on Aztec Spindle Whorl Iconography — Jesper Nielsen  • 7. Mex-
ica Textiles: Archaeological Remains from the Sacred Precincts of Tenochtitlan and Tlatelolco — Leonardo López Luján 
& Salvador Guilliem Arroyo  • Peru  • 8. Andean Textile Traditions: Material Knowledge and Culture, Part 1  — Elena 
Phipps  • 9. Introduction into the history of the textile collection at the Ethnological Museum Berlin — Beatrix Hoff-
mann • 10. Archaeological Textiles of Sechín Bajo – a formative Site of the North Coast of Peru: Preliminarily Results 
— Katalin Nagy  • 11. Headdress forms in the Paracas Necrópolis Mortuary Tradition — Ann H. Peters  • 12. Nasca Tex-
tiles of south Peru, Los Molinos, Sector B. Analysis and Insights  — Dr. Daniela Biermann • 13. Pre-Columbian Textile 
Structures at Castillo de Huarmey, Peru — Aleksandra Laszczka, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser, & Miłosz Giersz • 14. The cu-
rious case of Sir Henry Wellcome’s wooden statuette clad in tie-dyed Wari cloth — Penelope Dransart • 15. Tocados 
del Horizonte Medio al Intermedio Tardío en la costa central: Una visión desde el valle de Asia, Perú (Siglos VII-XII 
d.C.) — Rommel Angeles Falcón • 16. Hallazgo de una Ofrenda Textil con material Horizonte Tardío e Inca Local en el 
valle medio de Pisco — Luis Peña Callirgos • 17. Trajes de poder. Los conjuntos Chimú con borlas — Victòria Solanilla • 
18. Structure, Design, and Gender in Inka Textiles — Blenda Femenías • 19. Lambayeque Textile Iconography and its 
Continuity in Chimu and Inca Cultures, and its link to modern Ecuadorian Pujilí Corpus Christi Celebrations — Yvonne 
Fleitman & Alisa Baginski • 20. La imagen divina y el simbolismo religioso en textiles del Antiguo Perú — Uwe Carlson 
• Conservation, reconstruction, analyses  • 21. Provenance investigations of raw materials in pre-Columbian textiles 
from Pachacamac; strontium isotope analyses — Karin Margarita Frei & Lena Bjerregaard • 22. Analysis of Paracas fi-
bre material from the Gothenburg Collection — Anna Javér • 23. La conservación de dos fardos funerarios provenientes 
de contextos arqueológicos: El caso de la cueva del Lazo, Ocozocoautla, Chiapas y la cueva de la Candelaria, Torreón, 
Coahuila, México — Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela • 24. The Arizona Openwork (Tonto) Shirt Project — Carol James
Textile  fragment  from  Cueva  de  la  Candelaria, cortesey of INAH.  
Image by Proyecto de Digitalización de las colecciones del Museo Nacional de Antropología, INAH-Canon.  
Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional De Antropología e Historia, México
Zea Books
Lincoln, Nebraska
isbn 978-1-60962-115-5
doi: 10.13014/K2X63K31
1PreColumbian Textile 
Conference VII
Jornadas de Textiles 
PreColombinos VII
Centre for Textile Research
University of Copenhagen 2016
Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters, editors 
Zea Books
Lincoln, Nebraska 2017
All articles are copyright © 2017 by their authors.
Compilation copyright © 2017 Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen.
isbn 978-1-60962-115-5
doi: 10.13014/K2X63K31
Cover image: Textile  fragment  from  Cueva  de  la  Candelaria, cortesey of INAH.
Image by Proyecto de Digitalización de las colecciones del Museo Nacional de Antropología, INAH-Canon.  
Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional De Antropología e Historia, México.
Title page image, chapter 20, fig. 28: Imagen divina dual, textil Paracas, Lavalle “Tejidos milenarios  
del Peru”, 1999, pp.166/167, dibujo Uwe Carlson. This page, chapter 20, fig. 15: Rosto felínico, objeto  
en oro de la colección de Dumbarton Oaks, “Andean Art at Dumbarton Oaks”, 1996, p. 67, dibujo Uwe Carlson. 
Composed in Sitka types, with Matura numerals.
Zea Books are published by the University of Nebraska–Lincoln Libraries.
Electronic (pdf) edition available online at http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/zeabook/
Print edition available from http://www.lulu.com/spotlight/unlib
UNL does not discriminate based upon any protected status.
Please go to unl.edu/nondiscrimination
3Contents
Introduction .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .  5
 Lena Bjerregaard & Ann Peters
Mexico
1  Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts  .    .    .    .    .    .  7
 Laura Filloy Nadal
2  Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   40
 Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres
3  Los textiles procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio  
desde la perspectiva arqueológica y etnohistórica   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .    50
 Elizabeth Jiménez García
4  Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological context and  
conservation issues  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .    68
 Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela
5  Textiles y otros materiales arqueológicos del valle de Tehuacán, México, en los Museos reales  
de Arte e Historia (MRAH), Bruselas    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  104
 Julia Montoya
6  The World on a Whorl: Considerations on Aztec Spindle Whorl Iconography  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   132
  Jesper Nielsen
7  Mexica Textiles: Archaeological Remains from the Sacred Precincts of Tenochtitlan and Tlatelolco .   .   .   141
 Leonardo López Luján & Salvador Guilliem Arroyo
Peru
8  Andean Textile Traditions: Material Knowledge and Culture, Part 1  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   162
 Elena Phipps
9  Introduction into the history of the textile collection at the Ethnological Museum Berlin  .   .   .   .   .   .   176
	 Beatrix	Hoffmann
10  Archaeological Textiles of Sechín Bajo – a formative Site of the North Coast of Peru:  
Preliminarily Results.   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   191
 Katalin Nagy
11  Headdress forms in the Paracas Necrópolis Mortuary Tradition  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   214
 Ann H. Peters
12  Nasca Textiles of south Peru, Los Molinos, Sector B. Analysis and Insights    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  238
 Daniela Biermann
413  Pre-Columbian Textile Structures at Castillo de Huarmey, Peru  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   253
	 Aleksandra	Laszczka,	Jeffrey	C.	Splitstoser,	&	Miłosz	Giersz
14  The curious case of Sir Henry Wellcome’s wooden statuette clad in tie-dyed Wari cloth   .   .   .   .   .   .   259
 Penelope Dransart
15  Tocados del Horizonte Medio al Intermedio Tardío en la costa central: Una visión desde  
el valle de Asia, Perú (Siglos VII-XII d.C.)  .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   277
 Rommel Angeles Falcón
16  Hallazgo de una Ofrenda Textil con material Horizonte Tardío e Inca Local en el valle  
medio de Pisco.   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   . 308
 Luis Peña Callirgos
17  Trajes de poder. Los conjuntos Chimú con borlas .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   330
 Victòria Solanilla
18  Structure, Design, and Gender in Inka Textiles    .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  341
 Blenda Femenías
19  Lambayeque Textile Iconography and its Continuity in Chimu and Inca Cultures, and  
its link to modern Ecuadorian Pujilí Corpus Christi Celebrations   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   349
 Yvonne Fleitman & Alisa Baginski
20  La imagen divina y el simbolismo religioso en textiles del Antiguo Perú   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   361
 Uwe Carlson 
Conservation, reconstruction, analyses
21  Provenance investigations of raw materials in pre-Columbian textiles from Pachacamac;  
strontium isotope analyses.   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .  387
 Karin Margarita Frei & Lena Bjerregaard
22  Analysis of Paracas fibre material from the Gothenburg Collection  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .  398
 Anna Javér
23  La conservación de dos fardos funerarios provenientes de contextos arqueológicos:  
El caso de la cueva del Lazo, Ocozocoautla, Chiapas y la cueva de la Candelaria, Torreón,  
Coahuila, México  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .   405
 Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela
24  The Arizona Openwork (Tonto) Shirt Project .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .   415
 Carol James
5Introduction
From May 31st to June 4th, 2016, the 7th International 
European conference on pre-Columbian textiles was held 
in Copenhagen. The conference was sponsored by Queen 
Margrethe and Prince Henriks Fundation, by Carlsberg-
fondet and FKK in the Ministery of Research and Edu-
cation in Denmark. It was hosted by the Centre for Tex-
tile Research, Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen 
and organized by Lena Bjerregaard, assistant researcher 
at CTR.
The European conference on pre-Columbian textiles 
was founded in 1999  by Dr. Victòria Solanilla, who orga-
nized the first five international meetings with support 
from the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona and Insti-
tut Català de Cooperació Iberoamericana, as well as the 
Museu Textil de Terrassa. Five volumes of papers from 
these conferences (Actas de las Jornadas Internaciona-
les de Textiles Precolombinos I – V) have been published 
by the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona, Departament 
d’Art, from 2000 to 2011.
The 6th conference, VI Colloque International sur les 
Textiles Amérindiens (2013), was organized by Sophie 
Desrosiers (École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales) 
and Paz Nuñez (Musée du Quai Branly) and held at the 
Musée du Quai Branly in Paris. Papers from this confer-
ence were published online in the journal Nuevo Mundo 
/ Mundos Nuevos in two sections: Textiles amerindios. 
Investigaciones recientes: del presente al pasado y vice-
versa / Amerindian Textiles. Recent Studies : from Pres-
ent to Past and Conversely; Amerindian Textiles. Crossed 
Perspectives on Colors / Textiles amerindios. Diferentes 
perspectivas sobre los colores. The essays can be read on-
line at: https://nuevomundo.revues.org/68800.
The location of each European conference on pre-Co-
lumbian textiles depends on the initiative of both individ-
ual organizers and hosting institutions. The 7th meeting 
was held in Copenhagen, hosted by the Center for Textile 
Research. From the 34 papers presented at the Copenha-
gen conference between May 31st and June 3rd, 2016, a se-
lection were further developed by their authors and con-
stitute the 24 articles presented in this volume.
While the Jornadas have always included papers on 
textile practices from throughout the Americas, the Pre-
Columbian Textile Conference VII for the first time has 
invited scholars representing national and international 
projects to talk about archaeological textile finds in Mex-
ico. Ancient textile finds are relatively unusual in Mex-
ico due to diverse climatic conditions not ideal for their 
preservation, but cave finds recovered throughout the 
20th century have been preserved in regional museums 
and more recently conserved in the national conservation 
laboratory. This volume unites seven original articles on 
pre-Columbian textiles from Mexico, which compare in-
formation on 20th century finds first described by Alba 
Guadelupe Mastache with that from previously unpub-
lished finds and recently discovered contexts.
A unique chapter presents the technical analysis and 
replication of a pre-Columbian tunic recovered in a cave 
site in Arizona, at the northern margins of the Meso-
american interaction sphere.
Thirteen articles on archaeological textiles from the 
central Andes include analysis of both textile assemblages 
preserved in museum collections and those recovered 
during recent fieldwork in archaeological sites of the An-
dean desert coast. These include textile assemblages rep-
resenting the Initial and Formative Periods, Paracas and 
Nasca contexts, the Middle Horizon, diverse late Interme-
diate Period assemblages and emblematic Inca garments.
It has been an exciting and very interesting process to 
edit these articles, and the editors thank all the authors 
for their fine, pleasurable and inspiring collaborations.
April 1, 2017 
Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters



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