Urban Research Program. Research School of Social Science. Australian National University.
Doi
Abstract
This paper is the third in a series on the clothing industry, .
forming part of the research project 'A Local Division of
Production: Technological Change and the Productive
lnterlinkages in Australian Manufacturing'. The findings and
arguments presented in this paper are based on a variety of data
including face to face interviews with industry, government and
union representatives.
The garment industry is characterised by labour intensity, the
predominance of small firms and the pervasive practice of subco
ntracting out the assembly stage of production . The results of
the current study indicate that within certain sub-sectors of the
clothing industry, these features are a consequence of the need for
fl exibility and that in particular, sub-contracting, a critical link in
the clothing chain of production, appears to be the only
economically viable strategy for many firms in the current
economic climate. However this strategy succeeds at the expense
of a severely exploited hidden workforce of outworkers.
The future of the Australian clothing industry has come under
close scrutiny recently through Government measures designed to
open up the se ctor to international competition. Both the
Government and the union movement argue that the only survival
path open to local clothing firms is to adopt the latest technology,
improve quality, exploit niche markets and target export
potentials. This paper suggests however, that although many of
Australia's largest clothing companies are adopting this approach,
many other companies cannot afford to and are likely to devise
instead, an alternative survival strategy which incorporates the
traditional practice of outwork.
Unless more effort is made to understand the structure and the
dynamics of change within this industry, the future scenario is
likely to be quite different from that which the Government
believes it is promoting and may well conflict with the grand
vi sion of award restructuring being fostered by the Government and the unions