Moore, Alan

Moore, Tui

English

Aquatic Commons

DOG DAYS ON ISABELA 
by 
Alan and Tui Moore 
The midnight calm over our campsite was shattered as loud barking and growling erupted only a few feet 
from our tent door. A half hour later the angry animal was still persisting with its enraged racket, so we 
climbed out of our sleeping bags somewhat apprehensively and, shining our flashlight into the dog's eyes, 
ran toward it, yelling as loudly as possible, and causing our nearby camp-mates to believe we were being 
eaten alive. Nevertheless, to our relief the dog fled without another sound across the lava fields under the 
full moon! A few years earlier, on our first encounter with these feral dogs that have roamed the rugged 
volcanoes of southern Isabela Island for many generations, our meeting was not so uneventful. On that 
occasion a pack of eight of these long-legged, long-snouted, hefty beasts had attacked our party offour. 
We had taken refuge on a steep lava outcropping as the dogs encircled us. Teeth bared, they began to move 
in on all sides, until at last they retreated under a shower of stones. 
But tonight we had barely regained our tent when not one, but six dogs appeared and again besieged our 
camp with wild barking. Soon another pack chimed in down the coast. Eventually they broke out into 
chilling howls and we were comforted to know that, in case of real problems, the Park wardens in the next 
tent had a rifle. The strange concert continued for several hours. What had gone wrong? We had been here 
almost three weeks on the first trip of the feral dog eradication campaign and, just as we thought we were 
beginning to achieve significant results in reducing the dog population, they were turning out in record 
numbers. 
There were six of us involved in this new project launched in 1981 by the Galapagos National Park and the 
Darwin Station with funding from the Frankfurt Zoological Society. Every day we and the four Park 
wardens hiked several miles along the coast, laying poisoned baits at regular intervals. By placing the baits 
hidden under dark ledges in the lava we would allow the dogs to find them with their keen sense of smell, 
while the native animals, who seek their food primarily by sight, would be in no danger of locating them. 
Even as we worked we could observe the devastating activities of the dogs. It appeared that the adult dogs 
devoured one medium-to-Iarge marine iguana every day, and more when eating small ones. Considering 
that there were at least 100 dogs in the vicinity of Caleta Webb, our first work site, this translated into 
staggering numbers of hapless reptiles consumed each year. We were amazed that there were any left at all. 
Despite this large scale depredation, on several occasions we were able to watch as dogs approached the 
marine iguanas closely without the latter showing the slightest fear, obviously not comprehending the 
dogs' deadly intentions. Having evolved in an environment totally devoid oflarge carnivores, the iguanas 
were clearly unable to cope with these introduced predators. The shoreline of Caleta Webb was littered 
with iguana carcasses, although the dogs frequently consumed their entire prey, bones and all, leaving no 
sign of their feast. While in coastal areas marine iguanas constitute the dogs' primary food source, we also 
encountered the twisted remains of hundreds of masked and blue-footed boobies, pelicans, penguins, 
flightless cormorants, sea lions, and fur seals. And we knew that only a few miles away the dogs were 
responsible for destroying almost all the giant tortoise eggs and young. 
Working conditions were not very pleasant at Caleta Webb, as the dogs thrive in one of the most rugged 
environments of Galapagos. Not a tree grows in the entire area, and heat waves rise mercilessly from the 
sunbaked lava fields. Our only refuge was a small awning over our kitchen area, and our tiny two-man 
tents. When we were not being broiled by the sun, the torrential rains of the warm season flooded our 
camp. Fresh water cannot be found here so our supplies, brought in dozens oflarge plastic containers, had 
to be used carefully, lest we run out before the end of the trip. 
The day we landed at Caleta Webb a tremendous swell was running so all our gear had to be hauled ashore 
through six-foot breakers. This made for hilarious scenes such as people completely covered with black 
beach sand madly chasing water containers and bunches of bananas as they washed up and down the tiny 
20 
Noticias de Galapagos, no. 35 1982
Juve nile Wild Dog o n Isabela Photo by Tui Moore 
beach. But the Park wardens are well-adapted to life in the field . Daily they would ca tch fresh grouper off 
the steep, rocky shore and coo k delicious meals fro m o ur limited stores. 
Aft er some refining of our techniques, the project soo n caught mo mentum . In onl y three mo nths over 100 
dogs were killed . incl uding almost a ll of those which li ved a long the western coast of Isa bela. There the 
marine igua nas can bask once more in the sun without becoming a dog's next meal. The project is scheduled 
to take two years to complete. Many problems will certainly a rise. The tremendous a rea to be covered on 
the volca noes Cerro Azul a nd Sierra egra a rc sure to put the Pa rk wardens to the tes t, yet they feel 
confident of success. Thought must also be given to the future of the large feral cattle popula tio n on Cerro 
Azu l. With the elimination of the dogs. their o nly preda tor, it is likely tha t th e cattle population will begin 
to increase. However, when the dogs are gone, just as has a lready been the case with the goats removed 
fro m several islands. we wi ll be one step closer to seeing the Galapagos wild and pristine. much as they 
we re for thousands of years before man introduced th ese a lien species. 
Rema ins of a Galapagos Fur Sea l eaten by dogs Photo by TlIi Moore 
21 
Noticias de Galapagos, no. 35 1982


Dog days on Isabela

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