The purpose of this design was to create modern surface design employing traditional analog photography and chemistry technology with Ortho Litho film, a series of chemical and light exposures, cotton yarn, and sand

Kang, Ju-Young M.

Sanehira, Gabrielle

English

The purpose of this design was to create modern surface design employing traditional analog photography and chemistry technology with Ortho Litho film, a series of chemical and light exposures, cotton yarn, and sand.</p

Kang, Ju-Young

Digital Repository @ Iowa State University (ISU)

  Page 1 of 2 © 2015, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ITAA Proceedings, #72 – www.itaaonline.org 2015 Proceedings Santa Fe, New Mexico Ortho-Litho Film  Gabrielle Sanehira, University of Hawaii at Mānoa, USA Keywords: asymmetrical, film, modern, texture  The purpose of this design was to create modern surface design employing traditional analog photography and chemistry technology with Ortho Litho film, a series of chemical and light exposures, cotton yarn, and sand. Using flat pattern techniques, the dart lines were manipulated and the hem length on one side of the jacket was extended to give it an asymmetrical, dramatic, and minimalist look. This design applied yellow-green accent with high value and full saturation, tubular silhouette, texture contrast (i.e., compressibility, extensibility, surface contour, and reflectance) between fabric and Ortho-Litho film, asymmetrical balance, golden section proportion, and emphasis on the Ortho-Litho film surface in order to create aesthetic and visual impact.  My background in traditional darkroom photography provided me with knowledge of how to incorporate analog photography techniques into my design. Since Ortho-Litho film is available in very large sheet sizes, the yoke and collar patterns of the jacket and short pants’ pocket cutout patterns were cut from large Ortho-Litho film. Like most films, Ortho-Litho is a thin transparent plastic, coated with light-sensitive material. Where it has been exposed to light, it will harden and turn a gradient of black after the film is developed. In unexposed areas, it will remain soft and wash off the plastic, leaving those areas transparent. One characteristic of this film is that it is known to render very high contrast. However, through manipulating the chemical dilutions and light exposure, a broader tonal range of grey to black can be obtained. I used it to add unique surface details to the yoke and collar of the jacket and the pocket cutout on the short pants. As for the jacket, this surface detail came from dusting sand directly on the film when it was exposed to light in a darkroom. As for the short pants made by 100% cotton fabric, cotton yarn on the film was placed in an abstract way to     Page 2 of 2  © 2015, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ITAA Proceedings, #72 – www.itaaonline.org   2015 Proceedings                                                         Santa Fe, New Mexico  contrast with the geometric pattern of the pants’ material. After exposing the film to light with an enlarger, the film using a series of chemicals was processed to render the tones. This design demonstrated innovative surface design, using analog photography and chemistry technology.  

Ortho-Litho Film

https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1399&amp;context=itaa_proceedings

Ortho-Litho Film

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