Carter, Curtis L.

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Marquette Universitye-Publications@MarquettePhilosophy Faculty Research and Publications Philosophy, Department of1-20-2015"Fashion is Freedom": Milwaukee Art Museum's '50Years of Ebony Fashion'Curtis L. CarterMarquette University, curtis.carter@marquette.eduPublished version. Published in the newspaper entitled "Shepherd Express". Jan. 20, 2015, A&EFeature. Publisher Link. © 2015 Shepherd Express. Used with permission.© INTERNATIONAL ART & ARTISTSTUESDAY, JAN. 20, 2015Milwaukee Art Museum’s ‘50 Years of Ebony Fashion’By Curtis L. Carter (by-author-146-1.html)“Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair,” opening at the Milwaukee Art Museum(MAM) on Thursday, Feb. 5, offers a spectacular viewing of haute couture ensembles fromthe 1960s through the present while inviting critical reflection on the struggles of AfricanAmericans for access to the world of fashion design. On display will be nearly 100 originalobjects, including accessories and ensembles, from leading European and Americandesigners. Photographs and videos accompany. The ensembles include creations byprominent European designers Laura Biagiotti, Christian Dior and Pierre Cardin; theDominican Republic’s Oscar de la Renta; Japan’s Issey Miyake; Turkey’s Balizza; andAmericans Bill Blass, Halston, Fabrice Simon and Bob Mackie.The elegant ensembles chosen for this exhibition were selected from a collection of originalsthat appeared in the Ebony Fashion Fairs over five decades. Ebony Fashion Fair began in1958 as a project of the John H. and Eunice W. Johnson family, publishers of America’sflagship black magazines, Ebony and Jet. The aim of the Ebony Fair, last seen in 2009,exemplified the Johnsons’ commitment to visually show and celebrate the best of black life.At its peak, the Fair enabled African Americans in 187 cities across the U.S., Canada andthe Caribbean to celebrate their identity while enjoying first-hand access to internationalfashion. It gave black women and men access to the same fashion creations as othersenjoyed. This was especially important at a time when even department stores were notnecessarily free of discrimination. Eunice is said to have spent more than $1 million for eachyear’s purchases.  She was known in the industry for her shrewd bargaining skills.NEWS (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/FLEX-37-NEWS.HTML) EVENTS (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/EVENTS)MUSIC (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/FLEX-34-MUSIC.HTML)A & E (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/FLEX-35-AE.HTML)DINING (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/ARTICLES.SEC-210-1-DINING-OUT.HTML)BLOGS (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/BLOGS) CONTESTS (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/CONTEST.HTML)EXTRAS (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/)CLASSIFIEDS (HTTP://EXPRESSMILWAUKEE.COM/FLEX-59-CLASSIFIEDS.HTML)NEWSLETTER (HTTP://VISITOR.CONSTANTCONTACT.COM/MANAGE/OPTIN/EA?V=001NHU2RKPRQOHDYO_5PDGU9A%3D%3D)‘Fashion is Freedom’ | A&E | Shepherd Express http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-permalink-24741.htmlThe Fair served as a model of African American success in business. At the same time, ithelped to advance civil rights. Aspiring young black models competed to present the hautecouture fashion at the Fair. For them, and young black designers, the Fair offeredinspiration and opportunities to advance their careers. Every Fair supported local charityevents. Collectively, the Fairs provided millions to support black charitable interestsincluding the United Negro College Fund.Sande Robinson, MAM board member and former head of the Marquette EducationalOpportunities Program, recalls attending these events both in Cleveland and in Milwaukee. “The Ebony Fair was a special social event for middle- and upper-middle-class black peopleto dress up in their finest, have fun and feel good about themselves,” she says. “Recallingthe Ebony Fair in the exhibition is important for the new generation of young blacks todayas it inspires hope in the possibilities for success and resistance to racial discrimination.” James Hall, past president of NAACP Milwaukee Chapter, also remembers warmly his ownvisits to the Fashion Fairs. “For black people who, in the half century preceding the start ofthe Fashion Fair, had embraced civil rights and social uplift, the Fashion Fair had a similareffect regarding style and beauty as did the James Brown song, ‘Say It Loud—I’m black andI’m Proud,’” he says.  Guest curator Camille Morgan finds “Inspiring Beauty” a “truly American story told throughthe democratizing power of fashion. Through the incredible costumes in the exhibition, youexperience the liberation that style and beauty brings as opposed to the anxiety that oftenpermeates the [fashion] industry. For 50 years, the Ebony Fashion Fair empowered womenof all colors, shapes, sizes and sensibilities to explore their own ideas of what it means tobe valued even if that wasn’t the message they were getting from their culture orsociety. Here, fashion is freedom.”The Johnson family’s efforts are part of a move worldwide to recognize the contributions ofblack women to social change. As late as 1946, Vogue School of Modeling turned away ablack model. By 1974, black supermodel Beverly Johnson was featured on the cover ofAmerican Vogue. And in 1979, a Black Fashion Museum opened at the Smithsonian inWashington, D. C.Like MAM’s 2013 exhibit, “30 Americans,” “Inspiring Beauty” draws attention to significantblack participation in our shared culture. Both show that the appreciation of beauty andartistic creativity transcends ethnic or racial differences. As positive steps towardrecognition of African American contributions to our culture, such exhibitions celebrate theimportance of African American presence in our city. Perhaps MAM’s efforts might alsoencourage other Milwaukee social and cultural institutions to explore positive ways toreduce the racial tensions that emerge in a city that holds the unholy distinction of beingthe most segregated in the nation. “Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair” represents the joint efforts of theChicago History Museum, Mount Mary University and MAM. It runs through May 3. For moreinformation, visit mam.org/inspiringbeauty/ (http://mam.org/inspiring-beauty/).ALSO FROM CURTIS L. CARTERNew Curator at Milwaukee Art Museum (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-24161-new-curator-at-milwaukee-art-museum.html)Kandinsky at the Milwaukee Art Museum (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-23352-kandinsky-at-the-milwaukee-art-museum.html)Uncommon Art from Common Folk (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-22676-uncommon-art-from-common-folk.html)Afghan War Rugs: Villa Terrace’s exhibit of conflict from the loom (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-22083-afghan-war-rugs-villa-terrace%25E2%2580%2599s-exhibit-of-conflict-from-the-loom.html)America’s Past Master (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-21971-america%25E2%2580%2599s-past-master.html)The Extraordinary World of Ray Yoshida (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-21887-the-extraordinary-world-of-ray-yoshida.html)Milwaukee Art Museum’s Tanya Paul (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-21816-milwaukee-art-museum%25E2%2580%2599s-tanya-paul.html)Frank Lloyd Wright in Wisconsin (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-21683-frank-lloyd-wright-in-wisconsin.html)Artists Find ‘Uncommon Ground’ at Kohler Arts Center (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-21496-artists-find-%25E2%2580%2598uncommon-ground%25E2%2580%2599-at-kohler-arts-center.html)African American Perspectives (http://expressmilwaukee.com/article-21316-african-american-perspectives.html)2 of 2 1/26/2015 9:29 AM

Fashion is Freedom : Milwaukee Art Museum\u27s \u2750 Years of Ebony Fashion\u27

https://epublications.marquette.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1489&amp;context=phil_fac

Fashion is Freedom : Milwaukee Art Museum\u27s \u2750 Years of Ebony Fashion\u27

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