Rusty Gaffney writes about Oregon\u27s Pinot Gris in a question-and-answer session with several Willamette Valley winemakers in this article from his  Prince of Pinot  blog, volume 7, issue 15. Gaffney provides a brief global and local history of Pinot Gris, examining the similarities and differences. He highlights David Lett, one of the first to plant Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris in the area. Gaffney then ends with a summary of Oregon\u27s Pinot Gris

Gaffney, William  Rusty

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Linfield College DigitalCommons@Linfield William “Rusty” Gaffney (Prince of Pinot) Collection Oregon Wine History Archive – Oregon Collection 3-26-2009 Pinot Gris: Oregon’s Signature White Wine William "Rusty" Gaffney Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.linfield.edu/owha_gaffney  Part of the Viticulture and Oenology Commons Recommended Citation Gaffney, William "Rusty", "Pinot Gris: Oregon’s Signature White Wine" (2009). William “Rusty” Gaffney (Prince of Pinot) Collection. Article. Submission 7. https://digitalcommons.linfield.edu/owha_gaffney/7 This Article is protected by copyright and/or related rights. It is brought to you for free via open access, courtesy of DigitalCommons@Linfield, with permission from the rights-holder(s). Your use of this Article must comply with the Terms of Use for material posted in DigitalCommons@Linfield, or with other stated terms (such as a Creative Commons license) indicated in the record and/or on the work itself. For more information, or if you have questions about permitted uses, please contact digitalcommons@linfield.edu. princeofpinot.com http://www.princeofpinot.com/article/655/Pinot Gris: Oregon’s Signature White WineThe Pinot tribe is very old and its true origins are lost in time. Pinot Noir was cultivated in the region nowknown as Burgundy before the arrival of the Romans and according to Carol Meredith of UniversityCalifornia Davis, is probably only one or two generations removed from wild vines. It has been proposed byresearchers in Austria that Pinot Noir is a cross between Pinot Meunier and Traminer but this is unlikely.Rather, Pinot Meunier appears to be a chimera, that is, a mutation in the epidermal (outer) cells creating twotissue layers of different genetic makeup with the inner layers genetically identical to Pinot Noir. Pinot Noirhas a proclivity to mutate and both Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are mutations of Pinot Noir with DNA profilesthat are identical to Pinot Noir. The leaves, clusters and vines of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are so much alikethat the only thing to distinguish them is the coloration difference. Pinot Gris is a white variety of wine grapewith skins that can vary in color from grayish-blue (“gris” means “gray” in French) to rose or pink or evenwhite. The wines produced from Pinot Gris are usually varying shades of yellow but can take on shades ofcopper or pink. If Pinot Noir is a red grape masquerading as a white grape, as is often quoted, then theopposite would be true of Pinot Gris.Pinot Gris was known to exist from the Middle Ages in the Burgundy region and spread to other parts ofEurope from there. Over time, it has been successfully propagated throughout the world where it has takenon a number of different local names and synonyms: Pinot Beurot in Burgundy and the Loire Valley,Malvoisie in the Loire Valley and Switzerland, Auxerrois Gris in Alsace, Fromentau in Languedoc, Tokayd’Alsace (now renamed Pinot Gris) in Alsace, and Pinot Grigio in Italy. In the last 20 years, Pinot Grigio hasbecome wildly popular in the United States, probably because the name is foreign yet rolls easily off theAmerican tongue and the Pinot Grigio style of wine from Italy is light, crisp, sometimes spritzy and easy todrink.Last year the Oregon wine industry lost David Lett, an icon who passed away after a long and distinguishedcareer as a winegrower and winemaker in the Willamette Valley. He was affectionately referred to as “PapaPinot,” since he was the first to plant Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris in the Willamette Valley in 1966. The storygoes that Lett began marketing Pinot Gris as a perfect wine match to salmon, christening it “salmon wine,”and the popularity of the wine slowly evolved in Oregon. In Jancis Robinson’s classic book, Vines, Grapesand Wines, published in 1986, she noted that Pinot Gris” was practically ignored in the New World.” Itwasn’t until the 1990s (as winemaker Scott Shull points out below) that Oregon Pinot Gris achievednotoriety.I asked four winemakers in the Willamette Valley who have had experience growing and crafting Pinot Gristo comment about how it has become Oregon’s signature white wine, how it fits into food and wine pairingand how Oregon’s version of Pinot Gris is distinct from Pinot Gris from California and Alsace, France. I haveincluded the responses of Harry Peterson-Nedry of Chehalem, Gilles de Domingo of Cooper MountainVineyards, Don Lange of Lange Estate Winery and Scott Shull of Raptor Ridge.Q: How did Pinot Gris become Oregon’s signature white wine?A: Harry Peterson-Nedry: Pinot Gris has become the most widely planted Oregon white grape due to itsversatility and partly by default. It is a variety that performs well in most regions of Oregon, warm to cool,retaining good acid while developing excellent fruit and complexity. It was a variety that wasn’t being grownelsewhere, so carried some Oregon ownership at the time. It also came into vogue at a time whennonserious, sweeter-styled, early wine region Rieslings were in disfavor and when Chardonnay clonalchangeover 26 from lackluster clone 108 to richly appropriate Dijon clones had not yet taken place. In otherwords, the right grape and the right time.A: Gilles de Domingo: In the late 60s, David Lett planted the first Pinot Gris in Oregon by grafting someplants on top of Riesling. Because of the early positive responses, the varietal started to develop at a rapidpace.A: Don Lange: Pinot Gris became a signature wine for Oregon because it is matched to the climate. Thesuccess of this grape in Oregon is predicated on the perspicacity of David Lett whose original plantingscontain an especially intriguing “clone” of this grape which expresses uncommon depth and complexity.A: Scott Shull: After its first New World planting in 1966 by David Lett, Pinot Gris production was wellahead of the market until the mid 1990s. In the early 1990s, it must be noted that the King Estate plantedand bought vast acreage of Pinot Gris in a major thrust to bring this delightful white wine to the nationalmarket. It was the combination of Lett’s varietal selection for Oregon’s cool climate and King Estates’bringing it to critical mass that put Oregon Pinot Gris on the national stage.Q: Some do not consider Pinot Gris a wine connoisseur’s wine. What is the appeal?A: Harry Peterson-Nedry: Some wine connoisseurs DO consider Pinot Gris a connoisseur’s wine.However, it definitely isn’t Riesling or Chardonnay in stature. It has thrived in a climate in the United Stateswhere ABC (anything but Chardonnay) gained traction and where food wines were valued more (that is,fruit, more acid, less oak).A: Gilles de Domingo: In Europe, a few Pinot Gris producers have been successful in making full bodiedwines with lasting length and complexity. Pinot Gris is genetically very similar to Pinot Noir. This is a winethat needs to be treated similar to Pinot Noir in winemaking practice (except the barrels). Pinot Gris withnatural higher acidity will bring a level of complexity fairly unique if the vineyard and winemaking areappropriate. In a certain sense, because of the similarity to Pinot Noir, a very high end Pinot Gris requiresconsiderable time and patience to be made. Soils and climate need to be perfect to achieve this result. Also,Pinot Gris is a varietal that can age very well and for quite a long time. If a varietal is able to be complex, fullbodied and age, then it is a varietal that should be considered “Noble.” Unfortunately, the public and evenwine connoisseurs tend to see Pinot Gris as a simple varietal because many examples are made in anindustrial way and not as a “Noble” varietal with all the beauty and effort of winemaking.A: Don Lange: I’m flummoxed by this question. What, pray tell, is a “wine connoisseur’s wine?” If weassume that, for instance, California Chardonnay is such, then it is safe to assume that Oregon Pinot Gris isas well. When well tended, it exhibits layers of complexity, texture and balance. If overcropped and/orplanted in an inappropriate climate it can produce an innocuous but quaffable white wine which is, perhaps,unfit for the connoisseur’s palate.A: Scott Shull: Oregon Pinot Gris is a gateway wine - it is just darn easy going and a great dinner guest.Often it transitions people away from heavy, oaky, white wines toward something with layers of complexcitrus fruits, acidity and minerality. I think the appeal of Oregon Pinot Gris is that it complements food ratherthan competes with it. The style is usually stainless steel fermented and without any malolactic fermentationso the wines remain crisp and articulate, but with a touch of residual sugar that keeps things full and with anaccounting of its fruit. Unlike Pinot Grigio, Oregon Pinot Gris has some heft, depth and mineral.Q: How does Pinot Gris fit into the food-wine pairing picture or is it mainly an aperitif?A: Harry Peterson-Nedry: Pinot Gris definitely fills a dinner table rather than an aperitif role. It may indeedbe, after Riesling, the most food friendly wine I know, matching with traditional foods such as pork, whitemeats generally, sausage, rich fish and shellfish, as well as providing a wine for ethnic and spicy cuisine. Iconsider it a universal food wine, especially in high acid versions.A: Gilles de Domingo: If the Pinot Gris comes from Alsace and even Oregon, I will advise that it be servedwith nicely made salami. Also Pinot Gris with lamb is terrific. I would also recommend a Pinot Gris from awarmer climate to be served with “light” fish. 27 : Don Lange: Pinot Gris is as versatile with food as is it’sparent Pinot Noir. The classic pairing in the Northwest is with salmon. If in doubt what to serve with dinner,the baseline is to set the table with a glass for Pinot Noir and glass for Pinot Gris. Pinot Gris is its best cansuggest orange, lime, ginger, anise with a fetchingly unctuous palate presence.A: Scott Shull: Oregon Pinot Gris is a great food complement with salmon (I particularly like Copper Riversalmon with Oregon Pinot Gris), or shellfish in cream sauce. If the acid-residual sugar balance is right,those ‘bright’ offerings of Oregon Pinot Gris are fantastic to cool the heat of Indian fare. We love a tandooriwith Oregon Pinot Gris.Q: How does Oregon Pinot Gris compare with its California and Alsatian counterparts. What makes itdistinctive?A: Harry Peterson-Nedry: Oregon Pinot Gris to my palate is all about freshness of fruit and acid, with pear,apple and kiwi fruit, white blossoms and light baking spices. It carries weight, but not too much, hasstructure for food, but not too much. Alsace seems to carry more residual sugar and is typically richer withweightier flavors, less on the white side and more on the yellow flavor spectrum. California seems toresemble Oregon in very cool areas like the Anderson Valley and seems flat and Chardonnay-mimickingfrom other regions.A: Gilles de Domingo: Alsatian Pinot Gris tends to be full bodied and creamy with high levels ofcomplexity. Alsatian Pinot Gris will have “tertiary” aromas because of the high level of esterification. Ageneral description of the aromatic profile of Alsatian and Oregonian Pinot Gris would be described asmelon, pears, grapefruit, herbal and flowery. California Pinot Gris is more fruit forward with an intensearomatic profile which is monochromatic. Peach and apricot seem to be descriptive of California Pinot Gris.Because of the DNA composition of Pinot Gris, the varietal requires specific micro and meso terroir such ascool nights, long and lasting period of maturity on the vines without the effect of dehydration. SomeCalifornia areas have a natural aptitude to grow wonderful Pinot Gris. Northern Oregon tends to be a laterripening season than California and the Pinot Gris as a result tends to have more acid and more agingpotential than California versions. Also, Pinot Gris likes acidic soils (pH<6.5).A: Don Lange: New World Pinot Gris originated in Oregon as a result of Lett’s singular dedication tomatching the varietal to the climate. Lange Estate was the fourth producer of Pinot Gris in the New Worldwith the first release in 1987. For a period during the 1990s, Lange Estate Winery was the largest producerof Pinot Gris in North America. I do not know of any commercially grown or produced Pinot Gris at the timein California. (Note: According to A Companion to California Wine written by Charles Sullivan, a few acres ofPinot Gris were planted in California in the early 1980s and by 1995 there were 68 acres, more than half inSanta Barbara and Napa counties.) I do know, however, that when winemaker Ken Brown visited us in theearly 1990s, he was not familiar with Pinot Gris but became excited about it and soon after planted PinotGris in California. Oregon Pinot Gris is distinguished from its California counterparts by its superior acidbackbone and focus. Compared to its Alsatian counterparts, Oregon Pinot Gris is more fruit driven.A: Scott Shull: Alsatian Pinot Gris tends to be fatter with more residual sugar and often interesting “funk”from fermentation in decades old foudres. I love that smell of Alsace that you get from the first whiff of anAlsatian Pinot Gris. Oregon Pinot Gris tends to have one foot in the realm of Alsace with a touch of palateweight, and certainly shares that love of balance between residual sugar and acidity. Oregon Pinot Gris isnot often perceived as sweet, as many Alsatian versions can be, yet may have residual sugar levels of 0.6%to 1.0% and acidity to match and balance out. Oregon Pinot Gris has an accounting of fresh fruit, yet haslength and finish driven by acidity. California Pinot Gris, often marketed as Pinot Grigio, is crisp, clear andclean. David Lett used to talk about Pinot Gris grown on the valley floor at 8 tons per acre versus what wedo in Oregon, where most vineyards are on high southern facing slopes, cropped at 2.5 to 3 tons per acre.You get fruit, fat and finesse.In summary, several features of Pinot Gris wines become clear:*Oregon Pinot Gris, like Pinot Noir to which it is genetically similar, is a versatile food wine. Think of itas Pinot Noir’s natural partner at the dining table.*The aroma and flavor profile of Oregon Pinot Gris includes honey, pear, apple, mango, kiwi, citrus,spring flowers including honeysuckle and light baking spices.*A small amount of residual sugar in Oregon Pinot Gris is not unusual. It balances the acidity nicelyand is frequently not detectable.*Oregon Pinot Gris wines are fresh with bright acid and although usually consumed shortly afterrelease, some versions are capable of aging.*Oregon Pinot Gris has more fruit, weight, structure and complexity than most Italian Pinot Grigio.*Oregon Pinot Gris is inexpensive with the best examples under $20. Many are closed with screwcaps and some are bottled in tall Alsatian-style bottles.*The ideal serving temperature is 50-55º F. At this temperature the wine will have more aroma,brighter acidity, a richer flavor and mouthfeel. In restaurants, Pinot Gris is often presented much toocold. If this is the case, ask the wait staff to put your glass of Pinot Gris in the microwave for 10seconds. Forget the ice bucket unless the wine is room temperature and needs to be cooled.*If you drink no Gris, you Pinot Gris.Particularly noteworthy:2007 Elk Cove Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris13.0% alc., 18,420 cases, $19. From vines that are 7-22 years of age cropped at 3.2tons per acre (shoot and crop thinned for low yields). Whole cluster pressed andfermented at very cool temperatures in small stainless steel tanks. · Complexaromatic profile of pears, biscuit, honey and wax. Bright pear and apple fruits with acreamy richness, lively yet well-integrated acidity and a persistent finish. This is theone to try if you want to experience what Oregon Pinot gris is all about.2007 Willakenzie Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Gris13.8% alc., 5,684 cases, $18, screw cap. Estate grown. · Delicate aromas of pear,melon and citrus echoed in the flavors. Perfect balance of richness and acidity with alingering aromatic finish.Perfectly fine:2006 Carabella Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Gris13.8% alc., 1,780 cases, $16. Sourced from 11 acres of estate dry farmed Pinot gris.· Slightly deeper yellow color than many examples. Shy aromas of pear and minerals. A bit atypical in flavorprofile featuring roasted nuts, miso and honey. Very smoothly textured.2007 Carabella Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley 10th Anniversary PinotGris12.4% alc., $17. · Delicate and attractive scents of pears and honeysuckle. Bold pearflavor on the attack with hints of apple and citrus. Creamy with a tangy finish thatfeatures fine persistence.2006 Chehalem Willamette Valley Pinot Gris15.5% alc., $19. Alsatian bottle, screw cap. 0.6% residual sugar. · Scents of pear, honey, andfermenting white grapes. Brioche, melon and citrus on the full palate with a faint hint ofsweetness. A distinct rich style in the Alsatian mold.2007 Daedalus Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Gris13.6% alc., screw cap. Tall Alsatian bottle. From four vineyards (Carabella, Croft, Mahonaand Murto) cropped to 2 tons per acre. Fermented with five different yeasts in 50% stainlesssteel and 50% neutral oak. · Rather intense aromas of pear, baking spices and almonds.Light and delicate flavors of pears and honey with a creamy mouth feel and some length tothe finish.2007 King Estate Winery Oregon Signature Collection Pinot Gris13.0% alc., 90,000 cases, $17. The winery also produces a higher end Pinot grisfrom 100% organically grown Estate fruit under the Domaine designation ($25). ·Classic with white flower and honey aromas and flavors of pear, banana and melon.Appealing richness with a good grip on the finish.2007 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris13.3% alc., 8,200 cases, $17, screw cap. · Faint yellow- color. Tropical fruits andgrass with a hint of petrol. Demure fruit with racy acidity, a hint of spritz and a dryfinish.Serviceable:2007 A to Z Oregon Pinot Gris13.0% alc., 30,500 cases, $12, screw cap. · Very shy aromas of tropical fruitincluding guava. Light and delicate expanding somewhat with time in the glass butstill is rather dilute.The above wines represent only a small sampling of the large number of offeringsof Pinot Gris from Oregon wineries. Practically every major producer of Pinot Noirin Oregon releases a Pinot Gris and they are usually available directly from thewinery websites.Note: In 2009 I sampled two more Oregon Pinot Gris wines worthy of mention. Goto the winery's description and tasting notes for a review of these two wines: 2007 Lange Estate Winery &Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris and 2006 St. Innocent Vitae Springs Vineyard Willamette ValleyPinot Gris. The St. Innocent bottling is particularly stunning.

Pinot Gris: Oregon’s Signature White Wine

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Pinot Gris: Oregon’s Signature White Wine

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