Gjirokastra, a century-old small city in southern Albania (now a UNESCO World Heritage site), provides an outstanding example of a Classical and Late Ottoman urban centre. At the same time, it is a special example of urban and architectural design based on self-defence by individual family units. Through an excursion of Gjirokastra's residential neighbourhoods, this article discusses how defence concerns guided its urban morphology and building typology until the collapse of the Ottoman Empire. The idea of war, feuds, and fear has pervaded the residents' self-identity for centuries. The military character of their houses owes much to the local ‘warrior’ mentality that prevailed in times of war and peace
