8 pp., 8 color photosThere may not be one "best way to control fire ants, but this publication can help you find the most cost-effective and environmentally sound method for each situation. It includes information on fire ant identification, control products, and several control approaches: the two-step method, long-residual contact insecticide treatment, and individual mound treatment

Brown, Elizabeth

Drees, Bastiaan M.

Flanders, K.

Keck, Molly

Nester, Paul

Schofield, Kimberly

Texas A&amp;M Repository

Fire Ant ControlThe Two-Step Method and Other ApproachesWhen it comes to insect pests, fire ants would probably top everyone’s list!L-54963/08when broadcast), and spinosad (works in several weeks). They may need to be reapplied more often than slower acting and longer lasting products such as abamectin, fenoxycarb, methoprene or pyriproxyfen, which work in 1 to 2 months when applied in spring and 6 months when applied in fall. Products that combine fast- and slow-acting ingredients, such as hydramethylnon plus methoprene (Extinguish® Plus, Amdro® Firestrike), may control ants better because they act quickly and last longer.To broadcast bait products correctly you will need a standard lawn spreader or a hand-held spreader. To cover larger areas, use a vehicle-mounted spreader such as the Herd® GT-77.  Most baits are applied at very low rates such as 1 to 2 pounds of product per acre. Calculate the area to be treated and use the smallest spreader setting that allows bait to flow. Apply the bait in swaths, crisscrossing swaths if needed, until the specified amount is applied. The agitators in some spreaders may cause bait to cake up so that it does not flow properly. Always read and follow the application instructions on the label of the product you are using.Long-residual Contact Insecticide TreatmentsWith this approach, a contact insecticide is applied to the lawn and landscape surface. This is more expensive than other control methods but it may be more effective in smaller areas because ants that move into treated areas will be eliminated as long as the chemical is active. Granular products are best applied with a push-type fertilizer spreader and must be watered in after treatment. where maximum control is needed. In other areas, where 80 to 90 percent control of ants is acceptable, you might use the Two-Step Method. Because control lasts longer when large areas are treated, consider participating in a community- or neighborhood-wide treatment program. These have been shown to improve control and reduce cost. If everyone participates by making coordinated treatments, ant colonies will not be able to migrate from property to property. Further InformationFor more detailed information on fire ant identification, biology and management alternatives, contact your county Extension office or a professional pest control operator. Or, visit the following Web sites:http://fireant.tamu.eduhttp://www.eXtension.org/fire+antsAuthorsBastiaan M. Drees, Professor and Extension Entomologist; Kimberly Schofield, Elizabeth “Wizzie” Brown, Paul Nester and Molly Keck, Extension Program Specialists; Texas AgriLife Extension Service, The Texas A&M System.Kathy Flanders, Alabama Cooperative Extension.AcknowledgmentsThe production of this leaflet was sponsored by Central Garden & Pet Company, Excel Marketing Division (2030 Powers Ferry Road, Suite 370, Atlanta, GA 30339). The authors are grateful for review comments from Tom Fuchs, Roger Gold, James Reinert and Michael Merchant. Red and black imported fire ants (Solenopsis invicta and Solenopsis richteri) are invasive species and their painful bites can injure or kill livestock, wildlife, domestic animals and humans. Their large mounds (as many as 300 per acre) are unsightly and often damage mowers and other equipment. Fire ants also infest buildings and can damage electrical equipment by chewing on wire insulation. The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the  Texas AgriLife Extension Service is implied.Produced by AgriLife Communications and Marketing, Texas A&M SystemExtension publications can be found on the Web at:  http://AgriLifebookstore.orgVisit the Texas AgriLife Extension Service at http://texasextension.tamu.eduEducational programs of the Texas AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age, or national origin.Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as ammended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Edward G. Smith, Director, Texas AgriLife Extension Service, Texas A&M System.100M, NewPush spreader.Granular fipronil products are slower acting but longer lasting; only one treatment is permitted per year. Faster-acting contact insecticides, such as the pyrethroids (listed above), eliminate ants on the surface for months but may not eliminate colonies nesting deeper in the soil. Individual Mound TreatmentsAlthough treating ant mounds individually is more labor intensive and may use more insecticide than other methods, it is a suitable approach for small areas with few fire ant mounds (fewer than 20 per acre) or where you want to preserve native ants. Faster-acting bait products (hydramethylnon, indoxacarb, spinosad) can be used to treat individual ant mounds and are ideal for treating inaccessible colonies like those nesting under sidewalks, in plant beds and at the bases of tree trunks. Some mound treatment products are available as liquid drenches, injectable aerosols, dusts, or granules that are watered in to the mound. Ants are killed only if the insecticide contacts them, so proper application is essential. These treatments are most effective when ants are nesting close to the mound surface (as they do when the temperature is mild). Colonies should not be disturbed during treatment. If you use a watering can to apply insecticide, do not use the can later for other purposes.Make a Management PlanChemical control lasts only as long as the effects of the insecticide used, or until new ant colonies move in from untreated areas. You can expect an ant infestation to return to its original level eventually. Thus, keeping fire ants in check requires a commitment of time and money. To reduce the cost and make control easier, consider making a map of your property. Divide the property into treatment areas and designate the most appropriate treatment approach for each area. Make a schedule for the original treatment and any re-treatments that will be necessary.For instance, you might use a long-residual contact insecticide at regular intervals in high-value or high-traffic areas (near buildings, in play or recreation areas) Drench mound treatment.   Hand-held spreader.and fipronil. Some affect the digestive system (boric acid) or metabolism (hydramethylnon or Amdro®). Other bait ingredients interfere with reproduction or growth; these include fenoxycarb (Award®), methoprene (Extinguish®) and pyriproxyfen (Distance®, Esteem®). A relatively new type of bait combines two different active ingredients, hydramethylnon and methoprene (AMDRO FireStrike® or Extinguish Plus®). To be effective, baits must be fresh and applied when ants are actively foraging. To determine if the time is right for treatment, place a small amount of bait in the area to be treated and see if foraging ants remove it within an hour. Because ants collect bait and return it to the colony, very little insecticide is needed in this formulation. Baits are ruined by water, so do not water baits after application or apply them when rain is expected.Control ApproachesThe Two-Step MethodStep 1.  Broadcasting an insecticide bait once or twice a year, which reduces fire ant colonies by 80 to 90 percent.Step 2.  Treating nuisance mounds or colonies that move into the bait-treated areas. Step 2 may not be needed. This is likely to be the most cost-effective and environmentally sound approach to treating medium-size to large landscape areas. Certified organic products can be used for broadcast bait and mound treatments. For livestock pastures, select products registered for use on such sites, such as Amdro Pro®, Esteem®, Extinguish®, or Extinguish Plus®. The bait you apply determines how quickly ants will be controlled and how long the effect will last. Faster acting bait products include indoxacarb (works in 3 to 10 days), hydramethylnon (works in 7 to 14 days for mound treatments and in 2 to 3 weeks Fire ants cost Americans $6 billion a year, including the cost of insecticides. The Two-Step Method and other approaches described here can lower that cost while reducing environmental damage and improving fire ant control. Knowing your options will allow you to make better choices to protect your family, pets and property.Most people (about 80 percent according to one survey) try to control fire ants by treating the mounds. Mound treatments are expensive—up to $2 or so per mound—and require lots of time and labor if you have much land to treat. With mound treatments, it may be easy to use too much insecticide, which can lead to environmental contamination if rain washes insecticide into lakes and streams. Mound treatments also can be ineffective. For one thing, some nests may go undetected. But even an area where every mound has been treated can soon be reinfested by fire ant colonies migrating from untreated areas or floating there on flood water. Also, deep-dwelling colonies that escaped mound treatment can quickly form mounds after a soaking rain. For most homeowners, it is usually more effective and less expensive to treat the entire yard with a product designed for broadcast application.Identifying Fire Ants If you have ant problems, first identify the species. There are hundreds of ant species in the southern United States, including some native fire ant species, and most of them are considered beneficial insects. Collectively, ants till more earth than earthworms and some prey on other insect pests and help reduce their numbers. Fire ants will build their mounds almost anywhere—in the open or next to a building, tree, sidewalk or electrical box. A fire ant mound does not have a central opening. When the mound is disturbed, fire ants emerge quickly and begin biting and stinging. They will even run up vertical surfaces. Worker fire ants are dark reddish-brown with shiny black abdomens, and are about 1⁄16 to about 1⁄4 inch long.Controlling Fire AntsThe current USDA quarantine for imported fire ants covers 320 million acres in all or parts of 14 U.S. states and territories (Alabama, Arkansas, California, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, New Mexico, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas and Puerto Rico). The quarantine means that shipments of hay, nursery stock, sod and other articles from quarantined counties must comply with state regulations. Fire ants can’t be eliminated entirely because it’s not possible to treat all areas that are infested. Thus, the goal of current integrated pest management (IPM) programs is to suppress fire ants as much as possible with biological control methods and use insecticides only where it is economically and environmentally justifiable to do so.There may not be one “best” method for fire ant control, especially in large areas. Your objective should be to find the method or methods that are most cost-effective and environmentally sound. In areas where these ants do not present problems, doing nothing is certainly one option. Control Products Biological control: Government and university researchers have imported and tested natural enemies of fire ants, such as the parasitic phorid flies from South America. These natural enemies have been successful in areas where they have been released. However, the biological control agents available on the retail market, such as parasitic nematodes, do not sustain themselves or spread on their own once they are released. Home remedies: Many home remedies have been devised to control fire ants. Drenching a mound with 2 to 3 gallons of almost boiling water eliminates ant colonies about 60 percent of the time, but it will also kill any plants the water contacts. This method is labor intensive and the hot water must be handled carefully. Some home remedies, such as applying instant grits, molasses or aspartame to ant mounds, simply do not work. Pouring gasoline or diesel fuel on mounds can contaminate the soil and groundwater, is dangerous, and is strongly discouraged.Organic products: A few treatments are certified as organic. These include ingredients such as d-limonene, an extract from citrus oil, or spinosad, a chemical complex produced by a soil microbe.  Chemical control: The use of insecticides for fire ant control is regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency. Approved products must be used according to directions on the labels. Be sure a product is registered for the kind of application site where you intend to use it, particularly if you will be treating a vegetable garden or other food production site. There are special products for use in electrical utility boxes and indoors, but they may not be available at retail stores. Some products are for use only by professional pest control operators.This publication refers to the generic names of the active ingredients in insecticides, which you should see on the product labels. Most active ingredients are marketed under more than one brand or trade name. Some sample trade names are given as well. Insecticide formulations and modes of action: Products are formulated as dusts, granules, liquid drenches or baits. They are applied either to individual ant mounds or across the surface of the ground (broadcast). The various active ingredients affect ants in different ways.Most active ingredients are contact insecticides that affect the nervous system of ants that come in contact with them. Contact insecticides include acephate (Orthene®), carbaryl (Sevin®), fipronil (Over ‘N Out® broadcast granules), pyrethrins, pyrethroids (bifethrin, cyfluthrin, cypermethrin, deltamethrin, lambda-cyhalothin, permethrin, esfenvalerate, tefluthrin or tralomethrin), and liquid fipronil or spinosad formulations. These ingredients vary in how quickly they kill ants and how long they remain in the environment. Natural pyrethrins and synthetic pyrethroid ingredients kill ants in minutes. Acephate and carbaryl take about a day, while granular fipronil may take 4 to 6 weeks to eliminate colonies. Hot water, pyrethrins and d-limonene treatments have little or no lasting effect. Carbaryl, spinosad and acephate break down in a matter of days to weeks. Pyrethroids can remain in the environment for weeks to months, while fipronil can persist as long as a year.Baits contain active ingredients dissolved in a substance ants eat or drink. In fire ant baits this substance is usually soybean oil. Some bait ingredients affect the nervous system. These include  abamectin (Ascend®), indoxacarb (Advion®, Spectracide® Fire Ant Bait Once and Done!, Over ‘N Out® Mound Treatment), spinosad Imported fire ant queen, workers and eggs.Mounted spreader.

Fire Ant Control: The Two-Step Method and Other Approaches

Texas A&M University

Fire Ant Control
The Two-Step Method and 
Other Approaches
When it comes to insect pests, fire 
ants would probably top 
everyone’s list!
L-5496
3/08
when broadcast), and spinosad 
(works in several weeks). They 
may need to be reapplied more 
often than slower acting and 
longer lasting products such 
as abamectin, fenoxycarb, 
methoprene or pyriproxyfen, 
which work in 1 to 2 months 
when applied in spring and 6 
months when applied in fall. 
Products that combine fast- 
and slow-acting ingredients, 
such as hydramethylnon plus 
methoprene (Extinguish® 
Plus, Amdro® Firestrike), may 
control ants better because they 
act quickly and last longer.
To broadcast bait 
products correctly 
you will need a 
standard lawn 
spreader or a hand-
held spreader. To 
cover larger areas, 
use a vehicle-
mounted spreader 
such as the Herd® 
GT-77.  Most baits 
are applied at very 
low rates such as 1 to 
2 pounds of product 
per acre. Calculate 
the area to be treated 
and use the smallest 
spreader setting that 
allows bait to flow. Apply the bait in swaths, crisscrossing 
swaths if needed, until the specified amount is applied. 
The agitators in some spreaders may cause bait to cake up 
so that it does not flow properly. Always read and follow 
the application instructions on the label of the product 
you are using.
Long-residual Contact Insecticide Treatments
With this approach, a contact insecticide is applied to 
the lawn and landscape surface. This is more expensive 
than other control methods but it may be more effective 
in smaller areas because ants that move into treated 
areas will be eliminated as long as the chemical is active. 
Granular products are best applied with a push-type 
fertilizer spreader and must be watered in after treatment. 
where maximum control is needed. In other areas, where 
80 to 90 percent control of ants is acceptable, you might 
use the Two-Step Method. Because control lasts longer 
when large areas are treated, consider participating in a 
community- or neighborhood-wide treatment program. 
These have been shown to improve control and reduce 
cost. If everyone participates by making coordinated 
treatments, ant colonies will not be able to migrate from 
property to property. 
Further Information
For more detailed information on fire ant identification, 
biology and management alternatives, contact your 
county Extension office or a professional pest control 
operator. Or, visit the following Web sites:
http://fireant.tamu.edu
http://www.eXtension.org/fire+ants
Authors
Bastiaan M. Drees, Professor and Extension Entomologist; 
Kimberly Schofield, Elizabeth “Wizzie” Brown, Paul Nester 
and Molly Keck, Extension Program Specialists; Texas 
AgriLife Extension Service, The Texas A&M System.
Kathy Flanders, Alabama Cooperative Extension.
Acknowledgments
The production of this leaflet was sponsored by Central 
Garden & Pet Company, Excel Marketing Division (2030 
Powers Ferry Road, Suite 370, Atlanta, GA 30339). The authors 
are grateful for review comments from Tom Fuchs, Roger 
Gold, James Reinert and Michael Merchant.
 
Red and black imported fire ants 
(Solenopsis invicta and Solenopsis 
richteri) are invasive species and 
their painful bites can injure or 
kill livestock, wildlife, domestic 
animals and humans. Their large 
mounds (as many as 300 per acre) are unsightly and often 
damage mowers and other equipment. Fire ants also 
infest buildings and can damage electrical equipment by 
chewing on wire insulation. 
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. 
Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the 
understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement 
by the  Texas AgriLife Extension Service is implied.
Produced by AgriLife Communications and Marketing, Texas A&M System
Extension publications can be found on the Web at:  
http://AgriLifebookstore.org
Visit the Texas AgriLife Extension Service at http://texasextension.tamu.edu
Educational programs of the Texas AgriLife Extension Service are open to all 
people without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age, or national 
origin.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home 
Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as ammended, and June 30, 1914, 
in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Edward G. 
Smith, Director, Texas AgriLife Extension Service, Texas A&M System.
100M, New
Push spreader.
Granular fipronil products are slower acting but longer 
lasting; only one treatment is permitted per year. Faster-
acting contact insecticides, such as the pyrethroids (listed 
above), eliminate ants on the surface for months but may 
not eliminate colonies nesting deeper in the soil. 
Individual Mound Treatments
Although treating ant 
mounds individually is more 
labor intensive and may use 
more insecticide than other 
methods, it is a suitable 
approach for small areas with 
few fire ant mounds (fewer 
than 20 per acre) or where you 
want to preserve native ants. 
Faster-acting bait products 
(hydramethylnon, indoxacarb, 
spinosad) can be used to 
treat individual ant mounds 
and are ideal for treating 
inaccessible colonies like those 
nesting under sidewalks, in 
plant beds and at the bases of tree trunks. Some mound 
treatment products are available as liquid drenches, 
injectable aerosols, dusts, or granules that are watered 
in to the mound. Ants are killed only if the insecticide 
contacts them, so proper application is essential. These 
treatments are most effective when ants are nesting close 
to the mound surface (as they do when the temperature is 
mild). Colonies should not be disturbed during treatment. 
If you use a watering can to apply insecticide, do not use 
the can later for other purposes.
Make a Management Plan
Chemical control lasts only as long as the effects of 
the insecticide used, or until new ant colonies move in 
from untreated areas. You can expect an ant infestation to 
return to its original level eventually. Thus, keeping fire 
ants in check requires a commitment of time and money. 
To reduce the cost and make control easier, consider 
making a map of your property. Divide the property 
into treatment areas and designate the most appropriate 
treatment approach for each area. Make a schedule for 
the original treatment and any re-treatments that will be 
necessary.
For instance, you might use a long-residual contact 
insecticide at regular intervals in high-value or high-
traffic areas (near buildings, in play or recreation areas) 
Drench mound treatment.
   Hand-held spreader.
and fipronil. Some affect the digestive system (boric acid) 
or metabolism (hydramethylnon or Amdro®). Other bait 
ingredients interfere with reproduction or growth; these 
include fenoxycarb (Award®), methoprene (Extinguish®) 
and pyriproxyfen (Distance®, Esteem®). A relatively new 
type of bait combines two different active ingredients, 
hydramethylnon and methoprene (AMDRO FireStrike® 
or Extinguish Plus®). To be effective, baits must be fresh 
and applied when ants are actively foraging. To determine 
if the time is right for treatment, place a small amount 
of bait in the area to be treated and see if foraging ants 
remove it within an hour. Because ants collect bait and 
return it to the colony, very little insecticide is needed 
in this formulation. Baits are ruined by water, so do not 
water baits after application or apply them when rain is 
expected.
Control Approaches
The Two-Step Method
Step 1.  Broadcasting an insecticide bait once or twice a 
year, which reduces fire ant colonies by 80 to 90 
percent.
Step 2.  Treating nuisance mounds or colonies that move 
into the bait-treated areas. Step 2 may not be 
needed. 
This is likely to be the most cost-effective and 
environmentally sound approach to treating medium-size 
to large landscape areas. Certified organic products can 
be used for broadcast bait and mound treatments. For 
livestock pastures, select products registered for use on 
such sites, such as Amdro Pro®, Esteem®, Extinguish®, or 
Extinguish Plus®. 
The bait you 
apply determines 
how quickly ants 
will be controlled 
and how long the 
effect will last. 
Faster acting bait 
products include 
indoxacarb (works 
in 3 to 10 days), 
hydramethylnon 
(works in 7 to 14 
days for mound 
treatments and 
in 2 to 3 weeks 
Fire ants cost Americans $6 billion a year, including 
the cost of insecticides. The Two-Step Method and other 
approaches described here can lower that cost while 
reducing environmental damage and improving fire ant 
control. Knowing your options will allow you to make 
better choices to protect your family, pets and property.
Most people (about 80 percent according to one survey) 
try to control fire ants by treating the mounds. Mound 
treatments are expensive—up to $2 or so per mound—
and require lots of time and labor if you have much land 
to treat. With mound treatments, it may be easy to use 
too much insecticide, which can lead to environmental 
contamination if rain washes insecticide into lakes and 
streams. Mound treatments also can be ineffective. For 
one thing, some nests may go undetected. But even an 
area where every mound has been treated can soon be 
reinfested by fire ant colonies migrating from untreated 
areas or floating there on flood water. Also, deep-dwelling 
colonies that escaped mound treatment can quickly form 
mounds after a soaking rain. For most homeowners, 
it is usually more effective and less expensive to treat 
the entire yard with a product designed for broadcast 
application.
Identifying Fire Ants
 If you have ant problems, first identify the species. 
There are hundreds of ant species in the southern United 
States, including some native fire ant species, and most of 
them are considered beneficial insects. Collectively, ants 
till more earth than earthworms and some prey on other 
insect pests and help reduce their numbers. 
Fire ants will build their mounds almost anywhere—in 
the open or next to a building, tree, sidewalk or electrical 
box. A fire ant mound does not have a central opening. 
When the mound is disturbed, fire ants emerge quickly 
and begin biting and stinging. They will even run up 
vertical surfaces. 
Worker fire ants are dark reddish-brown with shiny 
black abdomens, and are about 1⁄16 to about 1⁄4 inch long.
Controlling Fire Ants
The current USDA quarantine for imported fire ants 
covers 320 million acres in all or parts of 14 U.S. states 
and territories (Alabama, Arkansas, California, Florida, 
Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, New Mexico, North 
Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas 
and Puerto Rico). The quarantine means that shipments 
of hay, nursery stock, sod and other articles from 
quarantined counties must comply with state regulations. 
Fire ants can’t be eliminated entirely because it’s not 
possible to treat all areas that are infested. Thus, the goal 
of current integrated pest management (IPM) programs is 
to suppress fire ants as much as possible with biological 
control methods and use insecticides only where it is 
economically and environmentally justifiable to do so.
There may not be one “best” method for fire ant 
control, especially in large areas. Your objective should be 
to find the method or methods that are most cost-effective 
and environmentally sound. In areas where these ants 
do not present problems, doing nothing is certainly one 
option. 
Control Products 
Biological control: Government and university 
researchers have imported and tested natural enemies 
of fire ants, such as the parasitic phorid flies from South 
America. These natural enemies have been successful 
in areas where they have been released. However, the 
biological control agents available on the retail market, 
such as parasitic nematodes, do not sustain themselves or 
spread on their own once they are released. 
Home remedies: Many home remedies have been 
devised to control fire ants. Drenching a mound with 2 to 
3 gallons of almost boiling water eliminates ant colonies 
about 60 percent of the time, but it will also kill any plants 
the water contacts. This method is labor intensive and 
the hot water must be handled carefully. Some home 
remedies, such as applying instant grits, molasses or 
aspartame to ant mounds, simply do not work. Pouring 
gasoline or diesel fuel on mounds can contaminate the 
soil and groundwater, is dangerous, and is strongly 
discouraged.
Organic products: A few treatments are certified as 
organic. These include ingredients such as d-limonene, an 
extract from citrus oil, or spinosad, a chemical complex 
produced by a soil microbe. 
 Chemical control: The use of insecticides for fire ant 
control is regulated by the Environmental Protection 
Agency. Approved products must be used according to 
directions on the labels. Be sure a product is registered 
for the kind of application site where you intend to use it, 
particularly if you will be treating a vegetable garden or 
other food production site. There are special products for 
use in electrical utility boxes and indoors, but they may 
not be available at retail stores. Some products are for use 
only by professional pest control operators.
This publication refers to the generic names of the 
active ingredients in insecticides, which you should see on 
the product labels. Most active ingredients are marketed 
under more than one brand or trade name. Some sample 
trade names are given as well. 
Insecticide formulations and modes of action: Products 
are formulated as dusts, granules, liquid drenches or 
baits. They are applied either to individual ant mounds or 
across the surface of the ground (broadcast). The various 
active ingredients affect ants in different ways.
Most active ingredients are contact insecticides that 
affect the nervous system of ants that come in contact with 
them. Contact insecticides include acephate (Orthene®), 
carbaryl (Sevin®), fipronil (Over ‘N Out® broadcast 
granules), pyrethrins, pyrethroids (bifethrin, cyfluthrin, 
cypermethrin, deltamethrin, lambda-cyhalothin, 
permethrin, esfenvalerate, tefluthrin or tralomethrin), 
and liquid fipronil or spinosad formulations. These 
ingredients vary in how quickly they kill ants and how 
long they remain in the environment. Natural pyrethrins 
and synthetic pyrethroid ingredients kill ants in minutes. 
Acephate and carbaryl take about a day, while granular 
fipronil may take 4 to 6 weeks to eliminate colonies. Hot 
water, pyrethrins and d-limonene treatments have little 
or no lasting effect. Carbaryl, spinosad and acephate 
break down in a matter of days to weeks. Pyrethroids can 
remain in the environment for weeks to months, while 
fipronil can persist as long as a year.
Baits contain active ingredients dissolved in a 
substance ants eat or drink. In fire ant baits this substance 
is usually soybean oil. Some bait ingredients affect the 
nervous system. These include  abamectin (Ascend®), 
indoxacarb (Advion®, Spectracide® Fire Ant Bait Once 
and Done!, Over ‘N Out® Mound Treatment), spinosad 
Imported fire ant queen, workers and eggs.
Mounted spreader.


English

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Fire Ant Control: The Two-Step Method and Other Approaches

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Fire Ant Control: The Two-Step Method and Other Approaches

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