4 pp., 1 illustration, 1 table, 3 photosFleas can be a problem for pets and their owners. This publication offers information about the flea life cycle, and tips on treating pets and homes effectively. For best results, flea control should begin before the problem gets out of hand

Merchant, Michael E.

Robinson, James V.

Texas A&M University

Controlling Fleas
Mike Merchant and James Robinson*
Fleas are small, wingless insects that feed on theblood of animals and people. Americans spendabout $9 billion a year controlling fleas – one of 
the biggest expenses for pet owners. 
In Texas, most flea problems are caused by the cat
flea, Ctenocephalides felis. This flea feeds on cats, dogs
and wildlife. Other kinds of fleas, such as the dog flea,
human flea, and rat flea, are less common on pets and
in homes. Fortunately, fleas need not be a serious prob-
lem because there are many effective treatments. 
Identifying the problem
Adult cat fleas are about 1/8 inch long (1 to 3 mm).
They are brownish-black, flattened looking, and with-
out wings. Backward-pointing bristles help fleas move
through the hairs or feathers of host animals and make
them more difficult to remove by grooming. The six
legs, especially the hind pair, are long and adapted for
jumping.
Flea larvae are less than 1/4 inch long (6 mm), leg-
less, and dirty white in color. The most likely place to
find larvae is in infested pet bedding.
Understanding fleas
During their life cycle fleas pass through four
stages–egg, larva, pupa and adult. Although they can
jump, adult fleas do not usually travel long distances
without a host. Fleas prefer to wait and jump onto a
passing animal. Once aboard, they remain until they
are dislodged or groomed from the animal. Without a
host, adult fleas live only a few days to 2 weeks. On
short-haired cats and dogs fleas survive an average of 8
days; they live longer on long-haired animals.  
The female flea begins laying eggs within 2 days of
her first blood meal. Four to 9 days later she produces
an average of 27 eggs per day, consuming about 15 times
her body weight in blood daily. Much of this blood is
excreted as partially digested feces. Flea feces are a fine,
reddish-black dust seen in pet fur and bedding.
Flea larvae feed on adult flea excrement. Without it,
they cannot survive, although they also may feed on
organic matter such as food particles, dead skin or feath-
ers. Larvae develop in 5 to 11 days. 
Fleas do not survive well outdoors in hot, sunny
lawns. Relative humidity less than 50 percent or soil
temperature higher than 95 degrees F kills flea larvae.
Moist, shaded spots near pet resting areas are the
places to find fleas. Indoors, flea larvae are usually
found under furniture and in pet bedding.
The pupa is the transition stage between the larva
and adult. The pupa forms inside a cocoon spun by the
larva. After a week or two the pupa becomes an adult.
The adult flea may remain in the cocoon for up to 5
months, but when stimulated by a passing animal the
adult can emerge within seconds. Long-vacant homes
or apartments can “come alive” with such fleas when
new inhabitants move in.
Animal and human health
Fleas can be a source of both irritation and disease.
Dogs and cats scratch constantly when heavily infest-
ed, resulting in soiled and roughened coats and, some-
times, in nervous conditions. The most serious effects
occur when a pet develops an allergy to flea bites. As
few as one or two bites can cause severe itching and
scratching in allergic pets. 
Cat fleas do not normally live on humans, but do
bite people who handle infested animals. Flea bites
* Associate professor and Extension entomologist and Professor and
Extension entomologist, The Texas A&M University System. Cat fleas are the most common fleas on dogs and cats.
They also infest raccoons, oppossums and coyotes.
E-433
cause small, red, itchy bumps, usually on the ankles
and lower legs. People with allergies to flea bites suffer
from hives, rashes or generalized itching. Allergic reac-
tions usually appear 12 to 24 hours after a bite, and
may last a week or more.
Fleas that have fed on rodents may transmit dis-
eases, including plague and murine typhus. For this
reason, avoid close contact with wild rodents such as
squirrels, rats and prairie dogs. Their fleas can bite you
and may transmit disease. Cat fleas, however, do not
carry plague.
Control
An integrated flea control program includes good
sanitation and treatment of the pet and environment.
You can eliminate fleas from your home with proper
treatment, but it may take time, especially if the infes-
tation is heavy. 
Sanitation. Change pet bedding regularly and 
vacuum thoroughly. Vacuuming removes up to 30 per-
cent of the larvae and up to 60 percent of flea eggs
from a carpet, as well as the larvae’s food supply of
dried blood. 
Vacuum under furniture, cushions, chairs, beds, and
along walls. Discard vacuum cleaner bags at least once a
week. Fleas can continue to develop inside vacuum
cleaner bags and re-infest the house.
Treating Pets. Your pet’s first line of defense
against fleas is a flea comb and a good bath. Soap acts
as a gentle insecticide and helps control light infesta-
tions on your pet. Though time consuming, combing
helps reduce the need for insecticides. Flea combs have
fine teeth that remove adult fleas from fur. Most dogs
and cats seem to enjoy this treatment; pay special
attention to the face and neck, and the area in front of
the tail. Dip the comb frequently in soapy water or an
alcohol solution to kill fleas removed from the pet.
Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are a safe preven-
tative treatment for fleas. These products work by 
disrupting the normal development of flea eggs and lar-
vae. When exposed to IGRs, adult fleas are unable to
reproduce; eggs fail to hatch and larvae die before they
complete their development. Because most IGRs kill
only eggs and larvae, they do not eliminate adult fleas
quickly. For this reason, they are usually mixed with a
mild insecticide.
Insect growth regulators are available as sprays,
spot-ons, pills or food additives. One product designed
for internal use is called Program® (active ingredient:
lufenuron). Program® can be given as a pill (for dogs),
food additive (for cats), or injection (for cats). A similar
product, Sentinel®, contains lufenuron plus a heart-
worm preventative. These products are available only
through veterinarians. They are very effective, particu-
larly for indoor pets. 
Two other insect growth regulators for topical use
are methoprene and pyriproxyfen. Methoprene is sold
under several trade names including Precor® and
vIGRen®. Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are available
at pet stores as dips, pet sprays, spot-ons and flea col-
lars. Control requires 4 to 6 weeks.
For severe flea problems, an IGR treatment may not
be quick enough. Use a product that kills adult fleas,
such as imidacloprid (Advantage™) or fipronil
(Frontline™). Both products have low toxicity to mam-
mals and pose little risk to pets or people.  Advantage™
and Frontline™ provide 1- and 3-month protection from
fleas, respectively. Frontline™ also kills ticks for up to 1
month after application. Both Advantage™ and
Frontline™ are available from veterinarians as spray
and spot-on treatments.
Spot-on treatments (pesticides applied to one or
more spots on the animal’s back) control adult fleas
effectively. Natural oils on the fur help transfer the pes-
ticide to all parts of the pet’s body. With all products,
read and follow label directions carefully. Products
designed for use on adult dogs should not be used on
puppies or cats, unless specified on the label.
Botanical (plant-based) insecticides kill adult and larval
fleas and are relatively low in toxicity. Botanical insecti-
cides include pyrethrum (or pyrethrins) and citrus oil
extracts (limonene and linalool). Use botanical insecticides
with care. Though usually safe when applied according to
label directions, some pets (especially certain cat breeds)
are sensitive to botanicals–especially citrus oil products.
It is sometimes claimed that garlic, Brewer’s yeast,
cedar bedding and various herbal sachets control fleas,
but there is little scientific evidence to support such
Fleas, but no pets?
Buildings sometimes become infested with fleaseven when there are no pets around. Other ani-mals such as bats, roof rats, squirrels, raccoons,
and wild dogs and cats commonly nest in structures and
may be the source of an infestation. An experienced pest
control company can treat for fleas and seal openings
through which wildlife may enter your home.
Flea life cycle. (Illustration courtesy of Novartis Corp.)
claims. Volatile oils in fresh cedar chips are toxic to fleas,
but the effect lasts a very short time. Tests have shown
that Brewer’s yeast does not protect pets from fleas.
Treating homes. The pet’s living areas should be
treated at the same time that the pet is treated. This
kills immature and newly emerging fleas and prevents
re-infestation of the pet.  
Several low-toxicity treatments are available for
indoor use. Citrus sprays containing limonene or
linalool can be applied to rugs, carpeting and pet bed-
ding. These products kill fleas on contact, but evapo-
rate quickly and leave little residual protection against
emerging fleas.
Boron-based products, such as disodium octaborate
tetrahydrate, can be used on indoor carpeting and have
little skin (dermal) toxicity. Borates kill immature fleas
by contaminating their food supply. Because adult fleas
feed on fresh blood only, boron insecticides do not con-
trol this life stage. Borate treatments are best applied as
shampoos to avoid problems with dustiness, abrasion
to carpets, and contamination of furniture or food
preparation surfaces.   
The insect growth regulators methoprene and
pyriproxyfen can be used indoors. Although metho-
prene is unstable in sunlight, it is an effective indoor
treatment. Pyriproxyfen sprays, available to pest con-
trol professionals under the trade names Archer™ and
Nylar™, can be applied both indoors and outdoors.
Pyriproxyfen controls both immature and adult fleas.
Indoors, treat pet loafing and sleeping areas, and in and
under nearby furniture. Outdoors, treat only flea
breeding sites such as bedding areas, the ground under
decks and shrubbery, and wherever pets spend a lot of
time. Well maintained lawns in sunny sites are unlikely
to harbor many fleas. Suitable consumer products for
indoor and outdoor treatments are listed in Table 1.
Follow-up. Because flea pupae are hard to kill with
insecticides, an additional follow-up treatment is usual-
ly needed 7 to 10 days after the first application. When
using short-residual insecticides such as pyrethrins, two
or three follow-up sprays at 5- to 10-day intervals may
be required.
Biological and Mechanical Controls
Fire ants and other predatory insects eat flea larvae
but they do not control fleas completely. Several kinds
of predatory nematodes (a type of microscopic worm)
are sold for outdoor flea control, but their effectiveness
has not been well tested. Studies suggest that nema-
todes work best in sandy soils. Irrigate with 1/4 to 1/2
inch of water before and after application. This pro-
longs nematode survival and helps them move through
the soil in search of flea larvae.  
Several kinds of flea traps are available from pest
control companies and pet stores. The most effective
designs use a special green light that blinks occasional-
ly to simulate the shadow of a passing host. Most
attract fleas to a sticky card, where they are trapped.
Place traps near pet beds and loafing areas for best
control. By themselves, traps are unlikely to solve most
flea problems; however, they can be a useful part of an
integrated flea control program for your home.
Don’t wait until fleas get out of hand. Begin your
flea control program early for best results.  Start a fre-
quent and thorough sanitation program, regularly
inspect your pet for fleas, carefully follow the label
directions of the insecticide product you choose, and
dispose of all pesticides safely. These steps will help
you reduce the need for extra pesticide treatments.
Tapeworms and fleas
Cat fleas sometimes carry an intestinal parasitecalled dog tapeworm, Diphylidium caninum. Thedog tapeworm has an interesting life cycle. It lives
in the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats and sometimes
humans. These long, flattened worms consist of up to 200
body segments (called proglottids) and may reach a
length of 12 inches (30 cm). When mature, these seg-
ments detach from the main body of the tapeworm and
wriggle from the anus of an infected animal. Fresh tape-
worm segments are opaque white or pinkish white, flat,
and somewhat rectangular. When newly emerged, they
move with a stretching-out and shrinking-back motion.
When dry, the segments are yellow or off-white, less than
1/16th inch long, rice-shaped sacs. Each sac contains
tapeworm eggs. Tapeworm egg sacs are frequently seen
attached to hairs around the pet’s anus, in feces, or in the
bedding of infested pets. Flea larvae feed on tapeworm
egg sacs. Once inside the flea, the tapeworm eggs hatch
and the flea becomes infested. Infested adult fleas carry a
stage of the tapeworm that can mature and multiply if the
flea is swallowed by a pet. During grooming, pets often
ingest such tapeworm-infected fleas.  Once released into
the pet’s digestive tract, tapeworms mature into adult
forms. On rare occasions, small children may ingest fleas
and become infested in this way. If you see proglottids in
your pet’s feces or bedding, you should have your pet
treated. Veterinarians can prescribe pills or injections to
safely treat for tapeworms in pets.
Be sure to read pesticide labels carefully. Products that are safe for dogs
may not be safe for cats, puppies and kittens. Generally, pets less than 4
weeks old should not be treated directly for fleas.
Safety Considerations
It’s important to wear the proper protective clothes
when applying pesticides. Long pants, a long-sleeved
shirt, socks and shoes are the minimum. Check the
pesticide label for additional safety requirements.
When mixing liquid pesticides wear unlined, chemical-
resistant gloves. Allow pesticide sprays to dry thor-
oughly before letting people or pets into a treated area. 
Never dispose of flea dips or other unused pesticides
in storm sewers, toilets or sinks. This pollutes the envi-
ronment and can result in costly clean-ups for your
community. Leftover flea dip may be poured onto a
grassy area for biological degradation, or disposed of in
some other manner as specified on the label.
Working with a Pest Control Company
Sometimes it’s best to have professional help when
dealing with fleas. A pest control company can treat
both indoor and outdoor areas.
■ Before having your home professionally treated,
vacuum carpets and clear toys and clothing from
areas to be sprayed. Vacuuming helps straighten
fibers and prepare the carpet to receive treat-
ment. Plan to stay off treated carpets until sprays
have thoroughly dried, usually at least 2 hours.
■ Ask the pest control operator to use the least toxic
materials necessary to do the job. Use insect
growth regulators for long-term control.
Insecticide labels are subject to change, and changes may have occurred since this publication was printed. The pesticide USER is always
responsible for the effects of pesticides on his own plants, animals or household items, as well as problems caused by pesticides drifting to
other properties. Always read and follow carefully the instructions on the container label.
Table 1. Common, effective household insecticides for control of fleas.
Active ingredient (trade name)* Formulation Area of use
carbaryl (Sevin) spray, dust outdoor, pet treatment
chlopyrifos (Dursban) spray, granule** outdoor
d-limonene (Demize) spray indoor, pet treatment
diatomaceous earth dust pet bedding
diazinon spray, granule** outdoor
malathion spray, dust outdoor
methoprene (Precor, Ovitrol, Petcor, vIGRen) spray, wipe-on, collar IGR indoor, pet treatment
propoxur (Baygon) spray, dip, collar outdoor, indoor, pet treatment
pyrethrins spray, shampoo, dip indoor, pet treatment
pyriproxifen (Archer, Nylar, BioSpot) spray, shampoo, dip, spot-on IGR outdoor, indoor, pet treatment
*Trade names are registered® or trade marked™.
**Use liquid rather than granular formulations for best control of fleas outdoors.
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made
with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Texas AgriLife Extension is implied.
Produced by AgriLife Communications and Marketing, The Texas A&M University System
Extension publications can be found on the Web at http://AgriLifeBookstore.org.
Visit Texas AgriLife Extension Service at http://AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, 
in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Edward G. Smith, Director, Texas AgriLife Extension Service, 
The Texas A&M University System.  
Educational programs conducted by Texas AgriLife Extension Service serve people of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, handicap or
national origin. 


English

Controlling Fleas

OAKTrust Digital Repository (Texas A&M Univ)

Controlling FleasMike Merchant and James Robinson*Fleas are small, wingless insects that feed on theblood of animals and people. Americans spendabout $9 billion a year controlling fleas – one of the biggest expenses for pet owners. In Texas, most flea problems are caused by the catflea, Ctenocephalides felis. This flea feeds on cats, dogsand wildlife. Other kinds of fleas, such as the dog flea,human flea, and rat flea, are less common on pets andin homes. Fortunately, fleas need not be a serious prob-lem because there are many effective treatments. Identifying the problemAdult cat fleas are about 1/8 inch long (1 to 3 mm).They are brownish-black, flattened looking, and with-out wings. Backward-pointing bristles help fleas movethrough the hairs or feathers of host animals and makethem more difficult to remove by grooming. The sixlegs, especially the hind pair, are long and adapted forjumping.Flea larvae are less than 1/4 inch long (6 mm), leg-less, and dirty white in color. The most likely place tofind larvae is in infested pet bedding.Understanding fleasDuring their life cycle fleas pass through fourstages–egg, larva, pupa and adult. Although they canjump, adult fleas do not usually travel long distanceswithout a host. Fleas prefer to wait and jump onto apassing animal. Once aboard, they remain until theyare dislodged or groomed from the animal. Without ahost, adult fleas live only a few days to 2 weeks. Onshort-haired cats and dogs fleas survive an average of 8days; they live longer on long-haired animals.  The female flea begins laying eggs within 2 days ofher first blood meal. Four to 9 days later she producesan average of 27 eggs per day, consuming about 15 timesher body weight in blood daily. Much of this blood isexcreted as partially digested feces. Flea feces are a fine,reddish-black dust seen in pet fur and bedding.Flea larvae feed on adult flea excrement. Without it,they cannot survive, although they also may feed onorganic matter such as food particles, dead skin or feath-ers. Larvae develop in 5 to 11 days. Fleas do not survive well outdoors in hot, sunnylawns. Relative humidity less than 50 percent or soiltemperature higher than 95 degrees F kills flea larvae.Moist, shaded spots near pet resting areas are theplaces to find fleas. Indoors, flea larvae are usuallyfound under furniture and in pet bedding.The pupa is the transition stage between the larvaand adult. The pupa forms inside a cocoon spun by thelarva. After a week or two the pupa becomes an adult.The adult flea may remain in the cocoon for up to 5months, but when stimulated by a passing animal theadult can emerge within seconds. Long-vacant homesor apartments can “come alive” with such fleas whennew inhabitants move in.Animal and human healthFleas can be a source of both irritation and disease.Dogs and cats scratch constantly when heavily infest-ed, resulting in soiled and roughened coats and, some-times, in nervous conditions. The most serious effectsoccur when a pet develops an allergy to flea bites. Asfew as one or two bites can cause severe itching andscratching in allergic pets. Cat fleas do not normally live on humans, but dobite people who handle infested animals. Flea bites* Associate professor and Extension entomologist and Professor andExtension entomologist, The Texas A&M University System. Cat fleas are the most common fleas on dogs and cats.They also infest raccoons, oppossums and coyotes.E-433cause small, red, itchy bumps, usually on the anklesand lower legs. People with allergies to flea bites sufferfrom hives, rashes or generalized itching. Allergic reac-tions usually appear 12 to 24 hours after a bite, andmay last a week or more.Fleas that have fed on rodents may transmit dis-eases, including plague and murine typhus. For thisreason, avoid close contact with wild rodents such assquirrels, rats and prairie dogs. Their fleas can bite youand may transmit disease. Cat fleas, however, do notcarry plague.ControlAn integrated flea control program includes goodsanitation and treatment of the pet and environment.You can eliminate fleas from your home with propertreatment, but it may take time, especially if the infes-tation is heavy. Sanitation. Change pet bedding regularly and vacuum thoroughly. Vacuuming removes up to 30 per-cent of the larvae and up to 60 percent of flea eggsfrom a carpet, as well as the larvae’s food supply ofdried blood. Vacuum under furniture, cushions, chairs, beds, andalong walls. Discard vacuum cleaner bags at least once aweek. Fleas can continue to develop inside vacuumcleaner bags and re-infest the house.Treating Pets. Your pet’s first line of defenseagainst fleas is a flea comb and a good bath. Soap actsas a gentle insecticide and helps control light infesta-tions on your pet. Though time consuming, combinghelps reduce the need for insecticides. Flea combs havefine teeth that remove adult fleas from fur. Most dogsand cats seem to enjoy this treatment; pay specialattention to the face and neck, and the area in front ofthe tail. Dip the comb frequently in soapy water or analcohol solution to kill fleas removed from the pet.Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are a safe preven-tative treatment for fleas. These products work by disrupting the normal development of flea eggs and lar-vae. When exposed to IGRs, adult fleas are unable toreproduce; eggs fail to hatch and larvae die before theycomplete their development. Because most IGRs killonly eggs and larvae, they do not eliminate adult fleasquickly. For this reason, they are usually mixed with amild insecticide.Insect growth regulators are available as sprays,spot-ons, pills or food additives. One product designedfor internal use is called Program® (active ingredient:lufenuron). Program® can be given as a pill (for dogs),food additive (for cats), or injection (for cats). A similarproduct, Sentinel®, contains lufenuron plus a heart-worm preventative. These products are available onlythrough veterinarians. They are very effective, particu-larly for indoor pets. Two other insect growth regulators for topical useare methoprene and pyriproxyfen. Methoprene is soldunder several trade names including Precor® andvIGRen®. Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are availableat pet stores as dips, pet sprays, spot-ons and flea col-lars. Control requires 4 to 6 weeks.For severe flea problems, an IGR treatment may notbe quick enough. Use a product that kills adult fleas,such as imidacloprid (Advantage™) or fipronil(Frontline™). Both products have low toxicity to mam-mals and pose little risk to pets or people.  Advantage™and Frontline™ provide 1- and 3-month protection fromfleas, respectively. Frontline™ also kills ticks for up to 1month after application. Both Advantage™ andFrontline™ are available from veterinarians as sprayand spot-on treatments.Spot-on treatments (pesticides applied to one ormore spots on the animal’s back) control adult fleaseffectively. Natural oils on the fur help transfer the pes-ticide to all parts of the pet’s body. With all products,read and follow label directions carefully. Productsdesigned for use on adult dogs should not be used onpuppies or cats, unless specified on the label.Botanical (plant-based) insecticides kill adult and larvalfleas and are relatively low in toxicity. Botanical insecti-cides include pyrethrum (or pyrethrins) and citrus oilextracts (limonene and linalool). Use botanical insecticideswith care. Though usually safe when applied according tolabel directions, some pets (especially certain cat breeds)are sensitive to botanicals–especially citrus oil products.It is sometimes claimed that garlic, Brewer’s yeast,cedar bedding and various herbal sachets control fleas,but there is little scientific evidence to support suchFleas, but no pets?Buildings sometimes become infested with fleaseven when there are no pets around. Other ani-mals such as bats, roof rats, squirrels, raccoons,and wild dogs and cats commonly nest in structures andmay be the source of an infestation. An experienced pestcontrol company can treat for fleas and seal openingsthrough which wildlife may enter your home.Flea life cycle. (Illustration courtesy of Novartis Corp.)claims. Volatile oils in fresh cedar chips are toxic to fleas,but the effect lasts a very short time. Tests have shownthat Brewer’s yeast does not protect pets from fleas.Treating homes. The pet’s living areas should betreated at the same time that the pet is treated. Thiskills immature and newly emerging fleas and preventsre-infestation of the pet.  Several low-toxicity treatments are available forindoor use. Citrus sprays containing limonene orlinalool can be applied to rugs, carpeting and pet bed-ding. These products kill fleas on contact, but evapo-rate quickly and leave little residual protection againstemerging fleas.Boron-based products, such as disodium octaboratetetrahydrate, can be used on indoor carpeting and havelittle skin (dermal) toxicity. Borates kill immature fleasby contaminating their food supply. Because adult fleasfeed on fresh blood only, boron insecticides do not con-trol this life stage. Borate treatments are best applied asshampoos to avoid problems with dustiness, abrasionto carpets, and contamination of furniture or foodpreparation surfaces.   The insect growth regulators methoprene andpyriproxyfen can be used indoors. Although metho-prene is unstable in sunlight, it is an effective indoortreatment. Pyriproxyfen sprays, available to pest con-trol professionals under the trade names Archer™ andNylar™, can be applied both indoors and outdoors.Pyriproxyfen controls both immature and adult fleas.Indoors, treat pet loafing and sleeping areas, and in andunder nearby furniture. Outdoors, treat only fleabreeding sites such as bedding areas, the ground underdecks and shrubbery, and wherever pets spend a lot oftime. Well maintained lawns in sunny sites are unlikelyto harbor many fleas. Suitable consumer products forindoor and outdoor treatments are listed in Table 1.Follow-up. Because flea pupae are hard to kill withinsecticides, an additional follow-up treatment is usual-ly needed 7 to 10 days after the first application. Whenusing short-residual insecticides such as pyrethrins, twoor three follow-up sprays at 5- to 10-day intervals maybe required.Biological and Mechanical ControlsFire ants and other predatory insects eat flea larvaebut they do not control fleas completely. Several kindsof predatory nematodes (a type of microscopic worm)are sold for outdoor flea control, but their effectivenesshas not been well tested. Studies suggest that nema-todes work best in sandy soils. Irrigate with 1/4 to 1/2inch of water before and after application. This pro-longs nematode survival and helps them move throughthe soil in search of flea larvae.  Several kinds of flea traps are available from pestcontrol companies and pet stores. The most effectivedesigns use a special green light that blinks occasional-ly to simulate the shadow of a passing host. Mostattract fleas to a sticky card, where they are trapped.Place traps near pet beds and loafing areas for bestcontrol. By themselves, traps are unlikely to solve mostflea problems; however, they can be a useful part of anintegrated flea control program for your home.Don’t wait until fleas get out of hand. Begin yourflea control program early for best results.  Start a fre-quent and thorough sanitation program, regularlyinspect your pet for fleas, carefully follow the labeldirections of the insecticide product you choose, anddispose of all pesticides safely. These steps will helpyou reduce the need for extra pesticide treatments.Tapeworms and fleasCat fleas sometimes carry an intestinal parasitecalled dog tapeworm, Diphylidium caninum. Thedog tapeworm has an interesting life cycle. It livesin the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats and sometimeshumans. These long, flattened worms consist of up to 200body segments (called proglottids) and may reach alength of 12 inches (30 cm). When mature, these seg-ments detach from the main body of the tapeworm andwriggle from the anus of an infected animal. Fresh tape-worm segments are opaque white or pinkish white, flat,and somewhat rectangular. When newly emerged, theymove with a stretching-out and shrinking-back motion.When dry, the segments are yellow or off-white, less than1/16th inch long, rice-shaped sacs. Each sac containstapeworm eggs. Tapeworm egg sacs are frequently seenattached to hairs around the pet’s anus, in feces, or in thebedding of infested pets. Flea larvae feed on tapewormegg sacs. Once inside the flea, the tapeworm eggs hatchand the flea becomes infested. Infested adult fleas carry astage of the tapeworm that can mature and multiply if theflea is swallowed by a pet. During grooming, pets ofteningest such tapeworm-infected fleas.  Once released intothe pet’s digestive tract, tapeworms mature into adultforms. On rare occasions, small children may ingest fleasand become infested in this way. If you see proglottids inyour pet’s feces or bedding, you should have your pettreated. Veterinarians can prescribe pills or injections tosafely treat for tapeworms in pets.Be sure to read pesticide labels carefully. Products that are safe for dogsmay not be safe for cats, puppies and kittens. Generally, pets less than 4weeks old should not be treated directly for fleas.Safety ConsiderationsIt’s important to wear the proper protective clotheswhen applying pesticides. Long pants, a long-sleevedshirt, socks and shoes are the minimum. Check thepesticide label for additional safety requirements.When mixing liquid pesticides wear unlined, chemical-resistant gloves. Allow pesticide sprays to dry thor-oughly before letting people or pets into a treated area. Never dispose of flea dips or other unused pesticidesin storm sewers, toilets or sinks. This pollutes the envi-ronment and can result in costly clean-ups for yourcommunity. Leftover flea dip may be poured onto agrassy area for biological degradation, or disposed of insome other manner as specified on the label.Working with a Pest Control CompanySometimes it’s best to have professional help whendealing with fleas. A pest control company can treatboth indoor and outdoor areas.■ Before having your home professionally treated,vacuum carpets and clear toys and clothing fromareas to be sprayed. Vacuuming helps straightenfibers and prepare the carpet to receive treat-ment. Plan to stay off treated carpets until sprayshave thoroughly dried, usually at least 2 hours.■ Ask the pest control operator to use the least toxicmaterials necessary to do the job. Use insectgrowth regulators for long-term control.Insecticide labels are subject to change, and changes may have occurred since this publication was printed. The pesticide USER is alwaysresponsible for the effects of pesticides on his own plants, animals or household items, as well as problems caused by pesticides drifting toother properties. Always read and follow carefully the instructions on the container label.Table 1. Common, effective household insecticides for control of fleas.Active ingredient (trade name)* Formulation Area of usecarbaryl (Sevin) spray, dust outdoor, pet treatmentchlopyrifos (Dursban) spray, granule** outdoord-limonene (Demize) spray indoor, pet treatmentdiatomaceous earth dust pet beddingdiazinon spray, granule** outdoormalathion spray, dust outdoormethoprene (Precor, Ovitrol, Petcor, vIGRen) spray, wipe-on, collar IGR indoor, pet treatmentpropoxur (Baygon) spray, dip, collar outdoor, indoor, pet treatmentpyrethrins spray, shampoo, dip indoor, pet treatmentpyriproxifen (Archer, Nylar, BioSpot) spray, shampoo, dip, spot-on IGR outdoor, indoor, pet treatment*Trade names are registered® or trade marked™.**Use liquid rather than granular formulations for best control of fleas outdoors.The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is madewith the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Texas AgriLife Extension is implied.Produced by AgriLife Communications and Marketing, The Texas A&M University SystemExtension publications can be found on the Web at http://AgriLifeBookstore.org.Visit Texas AgriLife Extension Service at http://AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu.Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Edward G. Smith, Director, Texas AgriLife Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System.  Educational programs conducted by Texas AgriLife Extension Service serve people of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, handicap ornational origin. 

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Controlling Fleas

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