This fact sheet  provides information for successfully establishing a lawn including planning, soil preparation, appropriate seed or sod choice, and an understanding of turfgrass requirements in southern Utah

Beddes, Taun

Cardon, Grant

Caron, Michael

Heflebower, Rick

Kopp, Kelly

Schaible, Candace

English

DigitalCommons@USU

December 2017             Horticulture/Turf/2017-02pr Preparing Soil for Turfgrass Establishment – Southern Utah Michael Caron, Candace Schaible, Rick Heflebower, Grant Cardon, Taun Beddes, and Kelly Kopp Introduction Successful establishment or renovation of a lawn is best achieved with careful planning, soil preparation, and an understanding of turfgrass requirements. Soil Preparation Soil preparation is often neglected prior to establishing a new lawn or during renovation of an existing lawn, but is among the most important factors in maintaining the long-term health, quality and functionality of the lawn. Very often, sod is laid or seed is planted on soil that may not be well suited for the long-term health of the turf and the negative results may not be seen for a few years. As a result, when lawns decline, the association between an unhealthy turf and poor soil preparation is often missed. Results of inadequate preparation can be costly and may include poor establishment, water stress, and frequent disease and/or pest problems (Landschoot, 2017).  The ultimate goal of preparing the soil is to create a condition in which;  Soil nutrient holding capacity is maximize,. Roots can penetrate deeply into the soil, Beneficial soil microorganisms can thriveand facilitate nutrient uptake and pest anddisease resistance, and Irrigation water can penetrate deeply into thesoil.To do this, there are a few steps to follow before planting. They include;  Soil testing, Controlling weeds, Relieving soil compaction, Amending the soil with compost, and Planning and installing an appropriateirrigation system.Figure 1. Soil preparation prior to sodding (Photo credit: Grant Cardon). Soil Testing Evaluate soil before planting. A typical soil test will identify soil texture (clay, sand, loam, etc.), pH, salinity, phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) levels. Routine soil tests are inexpensive and help ensure your soil is suitable for growing turf. For more information about soil testing at Utah State University, visit the Utah State University Analytical Laboratory website. Local USU Extension county offices can also help in understanding results and correcting any potential problems.  Controlling Weeds Weeds are detrimental to establishing a new lawn because they compete with grasses for available light, nutrients, and water. Therefore, the best time to control weeds is before planting new lawns. For annual and biennial weeds, a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate, labeled for residential use, is usually sufficient. Use such products well in advance of establishing the lawn to meet the label’s replant interval. Also keep in mind that weed seeds may not all germinate simultaneously and multiple applications may be necessary.  Perennial weeds such as dandelion, field bindweed, and Canada thistle are more difficult to control and multiple applications of an herbicide may be needed to reduce weed pressure to a level at which can be properly established. The most important time to control these types of weeds is in early fall, although applications during other points during the growing season can be helpful.   Many weed seeds do not germinate in late summer making this the ideal time to plant grass seed. Late summer planting will allow the lawn to grow in, outcompeting most spring weeds. Perennial weeds not previously eliminated can be treated as needed after the lawn is established.  Relieving Compaction and Amending with Compost Most home planting sites have compacted soils due to previous construction activities. Compaction impedes water movement, reduces soil oxygen, and limits root depth. Planting sites need water to penetrate to at least a 10” depth, and have oxygen available for proper root development and to encourage beneficial soil microbial activity. Roots need to penetrate soil deeply to take up water and nutrients from a large volume of soil. This naturally makes grass more drought and heat tolerant and less dependent on repeated fertilizer applications.  Careful soil tilling is the easiest way to reduce soil compaction. Usually one or two passes with a tiller set as deeply as possible are sufficient. Repeated tilling can pulverize the soil and make compaction worse. The soil should be moist, but not wet enough to cause soil to stick to the tiller tines.  Incorporating compost with tilling is the best way to improve existing soil for the long-term no matter the soil type. Compost increases water and nutrient holding capacity in sandy soils. In clay soils compost improves drainage. It is a common practice to apply compost just before seeding a new lawn or laying sod. However, once compost is incorporated into the soil it is best to wait several days to 2 weeks before planting to allow any salts that may be in the compost to leach through the soil. It also gives the compost time to break down and actually improve the soil. If possible apply compost the fall prior to planting, or in the spring. Manage the weeds for the growing season and plant in late summer or early fall.  Compost is derived from both animal (steer manure, for example) and plant sources. Ground bark, grass clippings and leaves are common sources of plant-based composts. Plant-based composts usually have lower salt content, while animal-based composts often have a greater nitrogen value. It is also common to find both types blended together. Otherwise, it is unimportant where the compost was derived, as long as it is of good quality and properly cured. When done composting, it should have an earthy smell and not one of manure. The components it was made from should not be readily identifiable.  One of the biggest mistakes when starting a new yard is the belief that it is necessary to haul in “top soil” to improve growing conditions. In the vast majority of situations, existing soil is sufficient for growing turf. In many cases purchased soil may not even be as good as the existing soil, and often has problems such as containing noxious weed seed. It is also recommended that purchased soil be tested and assessed for suitability with the existing site prior to use.  A few situations exist where it may be necessary to bring in additional soil, such as if the existing grade must be raised, or soil is too rocky to cultivate. When adding top soil apply a minimum of 6 to 12 inches. If less is needed make sure to blend some of the new soil into the existing soil to create a transition zone between the two types of soil. Further, if topsoil is hauled in it is still beneficial to incorporate compost into it. Finally, before seeding, sodding, or sprigging the area, the soil should be firmed with a light roller so that footprints and spreader wheels will not leave deep prints or ruts.    SEEDING  Species, Seed Mixtures and Blends Turfgrasses are often seeded in species mixtures or varietal blends of the same species to address variability of site conditions, as well as to enhance genetic diversity of the stand. Seed mixtures and blends can accommodate sunny and shady areas, well-drained or poorly drained soils, and diverse microclimates. They are also better able to withstand many different environmental and pest-related stresses than single species or single variety stands.   In southern Utah, both cool- and warm-season grass species may be grown. Kentucky bluegrass is the most commonly used cool-season grass species, but other options include turf-type tall fescue, the fine fescues, and perennial ryegrass (Table 1).  Warm-season grasses grown in the region include buffalograss, bermudagrass (in Washington County), and zoysiagrass (Table 1). Site conditions, function, and the needs of the property owner will guide turfgrass species and variety choices. For more specific information on selecting turfgrass species and varieties for Utah, access the Turfgrass Cultivars for Utah fact sheet.  Timing of Seeding Cool-season grasses may be seeded any time from mid-spring to early fall, but late summer is the optimum seeding time in southern Utah.  Cool-season grasses planted in the late summer will have both the cooler fall and spring growing seasons to establish before the heat and dryness of the summer months returns.  Annual weed pressure is also lower in the late summer and early fall than during the spring months.  Warm-season grasses should be seeded in the spring or early summer months to take best advantage of the warmer temperatures that they prefer. Starter Fertilizer At the time of seeding, starter fertilizer should be applied to the soil surface (not tilled in) to provide  Table 1.  Turfgrass species and mixtures for  establishing home lawns, grounds, parks and managed landscapes (adapted from Landschoot, 2017). Turfgrass Species Seed Rate (per 1,000 sq. ft.) % in Mixture (by weight) Full Sun Kentucky bluegrass 6-8 lb. 100 turf-type tall fescue 2-3 lb. 100 perennial ryegrass 4-5 lb. 100 Kentucky bluegrass +  perennial ryegrass 2-3 lb. 80-90 10-20 Kentucky bluegrass + fine fescues + perennial ryegrass 3-4 lb. 40-60 20-40 10 bermudagrass ½ - 1 lb, seed 5 – 10 bushels of sprigs 100 buffalograss 2-3 lb. seed 2-in. sod plugs on 12-in. centers 100 zoysiagrass 1 b. 2 – 5 bushels of sprigs 2-in sod plugs on 12-in.centers 100 Partial Shade fine fescues + Kentucky bluegrass + perennial ryegrass 4 lb. 40-50 20-40  10 turf-type tall fescue 6-8 lb. 100 fine fescues 4-5 lb. 100 zoysiagrass 1 lb. 2-5 bushels of sprigs 2-in. sod plugs on 12-in. centers 100   nutrition to the growing seedlings, speeding up establishment. The most important nutrient forestablishing turfgrasses is phosphorus (P) and the starter fertilizer should be high in P, even if soil testing indicates adequate levels. New seedlings require high amounts of P for development, but they do not have adequate root systems to take up existing P in the soil, which is relatively immobile. The P in the starter fertilizer places the P exactly where new seedlings are developing roots at the soil surface. A good nutrient ratio for starter fertilizer is 12-25-10, or a similar ratio that is high in P, but low in N to prevent burning new seedlings (Christians, 1998).  Seeding Methods When seeding grasses, the goal is to distribute the seed uniformly and any method that facilitates uniform distribution is appropriate. Seeding by hand, drop or broadcast spreader are all effective.  With any of these methods, divide the desired amount of seed in half. Spread the first half of the seed back and forth across the area and spread the second half of the seed at right angles to the first (Landschoot, 2017).  SODDING Site preparations for sodding are the same as preparations for establishment from seed.  The soil surface should be smooth and dry or slightly moist, but not wet. Grasses may be sodded at almost any time of the year that the soil is not frozen.  However, late summer, spring or fall are the optimum times.   Sod is typically cut into rectangular strips that are delivered folded or rolled on pallets.  Once delivered, the sod should be laid within 24-48 hours to avoid decomposition within the rolls or folds and death of the turf.  When placing the sod, lay in a staggered, brick-like pattern so that seams do not line up. Place the strips tightly against one another along all edges to avoid drying and to speed up “knitting together” of the strips. Once placed, roll the lawn surface with a light roller before watering and press any raised areas down to avoid scalping by mowers. Finally, walk the entire area and fill in any small openings between turf strips with soil.   SPRIGGING Warm-season grasses like zoysiagrass and the hybrid bermudagrasses are often established through a process known as sprigging. With sprigging, pieces (3-6 in. long) of stolons or rhizomes may be planted in holes or furrows, allowing shoots and roots to grow, eventually establishing new plants to cover the site. Sprigs may also be broadcast over an area and buried lightly with soil, leaving a portion exposed to produce shoots. Careful and consistent irrigation during the first several weeks after sprigging is required for new roots to establish and for the grass to start filling in. PLUGGING Stoloniferous grasses such as zoysiagrass and buffalograss may be established through plugging. Plugging requires small pieces of sod, usually 2-4 in. wide and 1-4 in. deep, and transplanting those pieces into the soil in a grid pattern ranging from 6 to 16 in. on center. Plugging differs from sodding in that the entire soil area is not initially covered, and the plugs grow, spread, and fill in the area over time. An advantage of plugging over sodding is that it is less expensive.  However, it may take one or two growing seasons for full establishment of the area and weed pressure during that time may be significant. Once plugged, the area should be rolled and then irrigated frequently to establish roots into the native soil. The site should be rolled again one to two weeks after planting to press any plugs into the soil that may have lifted (Emmons, 2000).  Figure 2. Soil preparation prior to sodding (photo credit:Grant Cardon).    CARING FOR NEWLY-ESTABLISHED TURF  The 1 to 2-month period following seeding, sodding, sprigging or plugging is the most critical for establishing grasses. Irrigation is most crucial during this time, but soon enough mowing, fertilizing, and weed control must also be considered.  Irrigation Following seeding or sodding, the grass’s root system is delicate and shallow and regular irrigation is required to avoid desiccation. For seeded areas, keep the soil surface moist with several short irrigations over the course of the day. Once the seedlings are 0.5 to 1 inch tall, the roots will be established enough to take up water from deeper in the soil profile and the soil surface may be allowed to dry without the risk of killing the seedlings (Christians, 1998).  Immediately following sodding, sufficient water should be added to move through the sod and thoroughly wet the underlying soil to a depth of 2-3 inches. This will encourage the roots of the sod to start establishing into the native soil. To be certain that the water is penetrating deeply enough, pull back the corners of a sod strip or two and confirm that the underlying soil is wet. Continue irrigating to maintain moist, not saturated, soil for 10-14 days until the sod has rooted into the underlying soil. Avoid traffic during this time as well.  Mowing Mowing establishing turf on a frequent basis will improve its appearance, will encourage “knitting together” of the plants, and will help to control weeds. Regular, frequent cuttings are less stressful to the turf than infrequent cuttings that remove large amounts of leaf tissue. Begin with a light-weight mower and cut when the grass is no more than 1/3 higher than the desired cutting height. For example, if the desired mowing height is 2 inches, always mow before the grass reaches 3 inches in height.  Fertilization Applying ½ lb. of N per 1000 sq. ft. 1 to 2 months after seeding or sodding will help to thicken the new turf. If signs of chlorosis appear on sod, fertilize with ½ lb. of N per 1000 sq. ft. as soon as the area will bear traffic, usually within 10-14 days.  Weed Control Newly established turf is very sensitive to most herbicides and chemical weed control should be avoided until the area is completely established. A good rule of thumb is to wait until after the third mowing before considering applying any herbicide.  As always, thoroughly reading and carefully following the instructions on herbicide labels is critical.  Traffic Control Avoid equipment and foot traffic on newly-established turf areas until the grass is well-rooted and has been mowed several times. Turf seedlings can be bruised or uprooted if they receive traffic too soon and root development in sod may also be restricted.  References Christians, N. 1998. Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management. Ann Arbor Press, MI. Emmons, R.  2000.  Turfgrass Science and Management.  Delmar, Albany, NY. Landschoot, P. 2017. Lawn establishment. College of Agricultural Sciences, Pennsylvania State University.  <http://bit.ly/2qrWeRl>     Utah State University is committed to providing an environment free from harassment and other forms of illegal discrimination based on race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age (40 and older), disability, and veteran’s status. USU’s policy also prohibits discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation in employment and academic related practices and decisions. Utah State University employees and students cannot, because of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, or veteran’s status, refuse to hire; discharge; promote; demote; terminate; discriminate in compensation; or discriminate regarding terms, privileges, or conditions of employment, against any person otherwise qualified. Employees and students also cannot discriminate in the classroom, residence halls, or in on/off campus, USU-sponsored events and activities. This publication is issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Kenneth L. White, Vice President for Extension and Agriculture, Utah State University.  

Preparing Soil for Turfgrass Establishment - Southern Utah

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Preparing Soil for Turfgrass Establishment - Southern Utah

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