I am indebted to the current owners of Castle Reichenau in Tamins, Graubünden, especially Johann-Baptista von Tscharner, who kindly invited me to walk in the footsteps of 19th-century tourists and visit the Louis-Philippe room and Adolf von Planta’s laboratory. I am also grateful to the House of Orléans for granting me access to archival material from the fonds de la Maison de France held in the Archives Nationales, Paris.Peer reviewedPublisher PD