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Wave-current interaction in formation of rip channel system

Abstract

Current effect on waves (CEW) is examined for formation of a rip channel system with a barotropic modeling framework based on Uchiyama et al. (2009). The model consists of an Eulerian phase-averaged shallow water equation with a vortex-force formalism, WKB ray equations for spectrum-peak waves, and a bed evolution equation with the Soulsby-Van Rijn???s total sediment flux prescription. CEW acts on reducing the offshore extent of\ud seaward rip currents through wave refraction on the currents, leading to modifying the budget of sediment flux and associated surf-zone topography. Inclusion of CEW results in shoaling rip channels, deepening offshore mounds, and elongating alongshore spacing of rip channels with normal incidence of offshore waves

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