The role of meteorological focusing in generating rogue wave conditions

Abstract

Abstract. Rogue waves are believed to be the consequence of focusing of wave energy. While there are several ways that energy may be focused, we concentrate here on the role of meteorological patterns in generating mixed sea conditions. We demonstrate the sharp increase in the probability of high wave crests for a given significant height when the sea is mixed, i.e., consists of wave trains arriving from very different directions. Then, using a full spectral wave prediction model forced by NCEP winds on the Atlantic Ocean, we illustrate the role of meteorological focusing in enhancing the probability of occurrence of rogue waves