Aalto University, School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Department of Arts
Abstract
A key principle within a circular fashion system is to extend garment lifetimes by increasing durability, thereby reducing consumption, and improving resource efficiency (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017; Bocken et al, 2016). Durability is now an established concept within sustainable apparel, with research informing best practice principles for design and product development (Cooper et al, 2014). Sustainable design should be a strategic process, incorporating the integrated systems of manufacturing, distribution, retail, and consumption (Ceschin and Gaziulusoy, 2016), seeking to minimise waste and other environmental impacts at all stages of the product lifecycle (Vinhod et al, 2011). Nonetheless, problems occurring during the manufacture and supply of apparel designed to be durable can lead to material waste generation, thereby undermining any potential improvements in resource efficiency (Claxton et al, 2017). This paper uses a qualitative multiple case study approach to explore retailer and supplier perspectives of the nature and management of post-industrial material waste problems of durable apparel, and assess their effect on garment durability claims. The findings demonstrate that the garment lifetime can be compromised by material waste arising from inefficiencies and a lack of transparency within production process management. The paper concludes that retailers aiming to demonstrate circularity by producing durable apparel should review the relationship between durability and sustainability performance outcomes, where waste is viewed as an environmental, as well as a financial impact. Problems should be effectively managed to prevent material waste and a reduction in garment lifetimes, and solutions must be holistically applied, ensuring that all stages of the supply chain are included
