D'Adamo, I

Morone, P

Yilan, G

English

Archivio della ricerca- Università di Roma La Sapienza

Piergiuseppe MoroneDepartment of Law and Economics, Unitel-maSapienza University of Rome, PiazzaSassari 4, 00161 Rome, Italy* Corresponding author: Morone,Piergiuseppee-mail: piergiuseppe.morone@unitelmasa-pienza.itPiergiuseppe Morone is a Full Professor ofEconomic Policy working on green innovationand sustainable circular bioeconomy. He is thecoordinator of the Bioeconomy in TransitionResearch Group (BiT-RG) and his worksregularly appear in prestigious journals. He isEditor in Chief of Societal Impacts (ELSEV-IER) and vice-chair of the Circular Bio-basedEurope Joint Undertaking (CBE JU) ScientificCommittee. Piergiuseppe has been the Eco-nomic Advisor of the Italian Minister of theEnvironment from 2019 to 2021.Idiano D’AdamoDepartment of Computer, Control andManagement Engineering, Sapienza Uni-versity of Rome, Via Ariosto 25, 00185Rome, ItalyIdiano D’Adamo is an Associate Professor atthe Sapienza University of Rome. Idiano wasamong 100,000 Top Scientists for the thirdconsecutive year (2019–2021). During hisacademic career, Idiano D’Adamo haspublished more than 100 papers in theScopus database, achieving an h-index of 41.He is involved in several editorial positionsand editing a couple of Special Issues as aGuest Editor in top-tier journals. His currentCurrent Opinion in Green and SustainableChemistry 2023, 42:100815This review comes from a themed issue onSustainable chemistry for a circular fashionIndustryEdited by Piergiuseppe Morone, IdianoD’adamo, Gülsah Yilanhttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.cogsc.2023.1008152452-2236/© 2023 Elsevier B.V. All rightsreserved.Available online at www.sciencedirect.comScienceDirectCurrent Opinion inGreen and Sustainable Chemistrywww.sciencedirect.comEditorial overview: The fashion industry wears thecircular economy and sustainabilityPiergiuseppe Morone, Idiano D’Adamo and Gülşah YilanWith ever-growing attention, extensive research has shown how practicesin the global fashion industry have become a major constraint to achievingsustainability. Several issues associated with this sector have been high-lighted including unsustainable use of natural resources, unethical laborpractices, greenhouse emissions, and post-consumption waste generation.Additionally, clothing consumption has increased rapidly due to the fast-fashion phenomenon, which encourages the purchase-discard model.The overproduction/overconsumption of garments has been linked tomany environmental problems such as being responsible for 8e10% ofglobal emissions of CO2 and being a big water consumer, reaching 93billion cubic meters annually. Accordingly, the fashion industry is consid-ered unsustainable and, as a response, several alternatives for transformingits practices into more environmentally friendly and socially responsibleways have emerged in the last decades. Among these alternatives lies thecircular economy (CE), which represents a sustainable pathway to growth,providing the economic system with an alternative cyclical flow model.To implement CE principles in the fashion industry, an innovative eco-design strategy is a prerequisite for not only improving some specificphases of a product’s life cycle but rather offering a holistic solution. Inline with this purpose, green chemistry (GC) offers an approach for thedesign of chemical products and processes aimed at maximizing resourceefficiency and minimizing hazardous effects throughout the products’ lifecycle. Along with improved protection for health and the environment, GCcan make economic sense by decreasing the costs associated with wastedisposal, protective equipment, regulatory compliance, liability, andmanufacturing security, as well as other societal costs. Against this back-ground, this special issue presents the current trends of GC applications inthe fashion industry from different stakeholder perspectives to promote asustainable transition.The present issue “Promoting sustainable chemistry for a circular fashionIndustry: the role of consumers, producers and policy-makers” includes 12peer-reviewed review articles. The multidisciplinary and complex natureof the topic is highly reflected in the keywords used: a total number of 52diverse keywords have been listed. Among others, the circular economyappears 5 times, followed by sustainability 3 times and then we findCurrent Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemistry 2023, 42:100815research interests are sustainability, stake-holder engagement and youth involvement.Gülşah YilanDepartment of Law and Economics, Unitel-maSapienza University of Rome, PiazzaSassari 4, 00161 Rome, ItalyGülşah Yõlan is a postdoc researcher in theBioeconomy in Transition Research Group atUnitelma Sapienza University of Rome (Italy).She holds a PhD in Chemical Engineering andMSc in Bioengineering from Marmara Uni-versity (Turkey). She has a strong interest inlife cycle assessment, sustainability analysis,circular economy, sustainability transition, andgreen and sustainable chemistry.2 Sustainable chemistry for a circular fashion IndustryCurrent Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemcircular fashion, fashion industry, green chemistry, recycling and sustain-able fashion mentioned twice (please see the figure below). Thus wederive that the boundaries among the various works have interconnectedperspectives and highlight the need to be evaluated with interdisciplinaryteams.Adamkiewicz et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622001225) provide guides for fashion brands about the risksof greenwashing practices and benefits gained from transitioning to asustainable fashion industry model. They also highlight how holistic ap-proaches can help consumers make responsible choices through clear,transparent, and reliable certification schemes against greenwashing.Appolloni et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622001316) address the nexus between society, energy andchemistry and the role of novel technologies in promoting carbon circu-larity, sustainability and resilience from an interdisciplinary perspectivethat integrates societal, technological and economic aspects.Arribas-Ibar et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000852) seek to develop a conceptual framework bycombining theory on circular business models, dominant designs, and userexperience and by extending these to the realm of innovation ecosystems.They test their framework with resale in the luxury fashion industry.Centobelli et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000967) provide a broad framework of current trends inthe fashion, textile, and garment industry, highlighting circular and slowfashion values that companies and policymakers should address to main-tain their competitiveness in the market and promote sustainable devel-opment. Challenges, trends, and opportunities for implementing CE inthe fashion sector are also discussed.Chopra et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622001596) underline the application of life cycle assessmentand related approaches for systematic evaluation of the environmental,social, and economic implications to steer the selection of appropriatetextile waste valorisation pathways.Chowdhury et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000864) provide a summary of the most recent de-velopments regarding sustainable practices and their antecedents in theistry 2023, 42:100815 www.sciencedirect.comEditorial overview Morone et al. 3apparel industry. From a triple bottom line perspective,they provide a comprehensive list of practices toenhance the economic, social, and environmental sus-tainability of apparel firms.Clark (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000979) looks at the importance ofgreen chemistry in the course of the circular fashionindustry with a specific focus on the compatibility of therecycling industry but also the opportunities for wastevalorisation.Ikram (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000694) proposes a model to gain adeeper understanding of how technological innovationshelp achieve a successfully sustainable fashion, whilesimultaneously improving sustainability practices.Papamichael et al. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000505) emphasize thenecessity of developing a new business circular modelfor the fashion industry in the framework of wastemanagement to promote circularity to both consumersand businesses, through knowledge exchange andeducation.Tsironis and Tsagarakis (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223623000585) discuss thecircular economy perception in the apparel, fashion, andtextiles industry sectors from the perspective of socialmedia by investigating the LinkedIn profiles of com-panies. They underline the potential of rapid socialmedia assessments to monitor recent trends such ascircular economy to catch the early signs of necessarypolicy fine-tuning.Finally, we present some case studies related to thepromotion of sustainable chemistry. Nayak et al.(https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/www.sciencedirect.com CS245222362200092X) highlight the potential of digitallaser technology and waterless ozone technology topromote sustainable chemistry by reducing environ-mental impacts in denim manufacturing. Sultana et al.(https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622001365), on the other hand, report thegaps that helped to propose the roles of consumers,producers, and policymakers in making sustainableleather processing.This special issue highlights how the scientific literaturecalls for major changes in the fashion industry by iden-tifying points of contact between the worlds of pro-duction and consumption. Sustainable DevelopmentGoal 12 pushes toward such a balance, and policychoices can aim to support the green and circular tran-sition of the industry’s engaged businesses as well as tosupport information campaigns to stimulate change inconsumer habits. Likewise, it is necessary to generate orintegrate professional figures to reap the benefits of thisgreen transition, which represents a great opportunity torealize a civil society, in which everyone can wear sus-tainable clothes.Declaration of competing interestThe authors declare that they have no known competingfinancial interests or personal relationships that couldhave appeared to influence the work reported in thispaper.AcknowledgementsThe guest editors would like to thank all of the re-viewers who generously evaluated the Special Issuesubmissions, devoting their time to providing valuablescientific input toward improving this collection ofcritical reviews. Furthermore, we are also thankful toManaging Editor Joanna Aldred for her technicalsupport.urrent Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemistry 2023, 42:100815

Editorial overview: The fashion industry wears the circular economy and sustainability

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Editorial overview: The fashion industry wears the circular economy and sustainability

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