Quantification of oligopeptide-20 and oligopeptide-24 in cosmetic creams
using hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography with electrospray
ionization mass spectrometry
Peptides are a very popular category of cosmetic ingredients covering a
wide range of applications in cosmetics. Hydrophilic interaction liquid
chromatography is promising for the analysis and separation of such
polar substances. In this work, the chromatographic behaviour of
oligopeptide-20 and oligopeptide-24 was initially investigated on a
zwitterionic ZIC (R)-HILIC analytical column under isocratic elution
with UV detection. Then, a hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography
with positive ion electrospray mass spectrometric assay was developed
and validated for the quantitation of these peptides in cosmetic creams.
All analytes were separated by using a polymeric zwitterionic ZIC
(R)-pHILIC analytical column (150.0 x 2.1 mm i.d., particle size 3.5 mu
m, 200 angstrom) with isocratic elution. The mobile phase was composed
of a 28% 32.5 mM ammonium formate water solution pH 9.5 in acetonitrile
and pumped at a flow rate of 0.25 mL min(-1). A run time of less than 11
min for each sample made it possible to analyze a large number of
samples per day. This is the first reported application of hydrophilic
interaction liquid chromatography in the simultaneous determination of
oligopeptide-20 and oligopeptide-24 in cosmetic creams and it can be
used to support routine quality control of these products