Bowen, Tony

de Vriend, Huib

Deigaard, Rolf

Holman, Rob

Huntley, David

Thornton, Ed

Calhoun, Institutional Archive of the Naval Postgraduate School

Calhoun: The NPS Institutional ArchiveDSpace RepositoryFaculty and Researchers Faculty and Researchers' Publications1997-09Intermediate Scale Coastal Behaviour:Measurement, Modelling and PredictionHuntley, David; Holman, Rob; de Vriend, Huib; Bowen,Tony; Deigaard, Rolf; Thornton, EdNaval Postgraduate Schoolhttp://hdl.handle.net/10945/69401This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, UnitedStates Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in theUnited States.Downloaded from NPS Archive: CalhounINTERMEDIATE SCALE COASTAL BEHAVIOUR:MEASUREMENT, MODELLING AND PREDICTIONDavid HuntleyInstitute of Marine StudiesUniversity of PlymouthPlymouth, PL4 8AADevon, UK.Phone: (44) 1752 232431  fax: (44) 1752 232406  email: dhuntley@plymouth.ac.ukRob Holman,College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences,Oregon State University,104 Ocean Admin. Building,Corvallis,Oregon, 97331-5503Phone: (1) 541 737 2912  Fax: (1) 541 737 2064 email: holman@oce.orst.eduHuib de VriendUniversity of Twente,PO Box 217,7500 AE Enschede,The Netherlands.Phone: (31) 53 489 4475 Fax: (31) 53 489 2511  email: h.j.devriend@sms.utwente.nlTony Bowen,Department of Oceanography,Dalhousie University,Halifax, B3H 4J1,Nova Scotia,Canada.Phone: (1) 902 494 7082  Fax: (1) 902 494 3877  email: tony.bowen@dal.caRolf Deigaard,Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA),Technical University of Denmark,DK-2800 Lyngby, Denmark.Phone: (45) 42 884829  Fax: (45) 45 932860  email: rolf@email.isva.dtu.dkEd Thornton,Oceanography Department,Naval Postgraduate School,Monterey, CA 93943-5000.Phone: (1) 408 656 2847  Fax: (1) 408 656 2712  email: thornton@oc.nps.navy.milReport Documentation Page Form ApprovedOMB No. 0704-0188Public reporting burden for the collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering andmaintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information,including suggestions for reducing this burden, to Washington Headquarters Services, Directorate for Information Operations and Reports, 1215 Jefferson Davis Highway, Suite 1204, ArlingtonVA 22202-4302. Respondents should be aware that notwithstanding any other provision of law, no person shall be subject to a penalty for failing to comply with a collection of information if itdoes not display a currently valid OMB control number. 1. REPORT DATE 30 SEP 1997 2. REPORT TYPE 3. DATES COVERED   00-00-1997 to 00-00-1997  4. TITLE AND SUBTITLE Intermediate Scale Coastal Behaviour: Measurement, Modelling and Prediction 5a. CONTRACT NUMBER 5b. GRANT NUMBER 5c. PROGRAM ELEMENT NUMBER 6. AUTHOR(S) 5d. PROJECT NUMBER 5e. TASK NUMBER 5f. WORK UNIT NUMBER 7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) Oregon State University,College of Oceanic and AtmosphericSciences,104 Ocean Admin. Bldg.,Corvallis,OR,97331 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATIONREPORT NUMBER 9. SPONSORING/MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 10. SPONSOR/MONITOR’S ACRONYM(S) 11. SPONSOR/MONITOR’S REPORT NUMBER(S) 12. DISTRIBUTION/AVAILABILITY STATEMENT Approved for public release; distribution unlimited 13. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 14. ABSTRACT  15. SUBJECT TERMS 16. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF: 17. LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT Same asReport (SAR) 18. NUMBEROF PAGES 4 19a. NAME OFRESPONSIBLE PERSON a. REPORT unclassified b. ABSTRACT unclassified c. THIS PAGE unclassified Standard Form 298 (Rev. 8-98) Prescribed by ANSI Std Z39-18 Richard Soulsby,HR Wallingford Ltd.,Howbery Park,Wallingford,Oxon, OX10 8BA,UKPhone: (44) 1491 835381  Fax: (44) 1491 825743  email: rls@hrwallingford.co.ukAward #: N00014-97-1-0792LONG-TERM GOALOur overall goal is to achieve a better understanding  and better predictions of coastalbehaviour at intermediate (event/season/year/decade) scales. We aim to bring togetherresearchers from Europe and North America to gain the best possible benefit fromdevelopments in field observation, theory and numerical modelling.SCIENTIFIC OBJECTIVESWe are following a four-pronged collaborative approach. Data on intermediate scalebehaviour from both sides of the Atlantic are being studied and ways are being soughtto project these observations onto a manageable number of descriptive parameters orbasic patterns. Top-down modelling will use these data products to develop black-box(data extrapolation) and grey-box (behaviour-oriented) models for the observedbehaviour. Bottom-up modelling will investigate the predictive potential of process-based models, making best use of process results from US and European fieldcampaigns, combined with existing modelling expertise. There is also a vital linkingactivity aimed at ensuring that the data, top-down modelling and bottom-up modellingactivities interact fully, in order to bring together the most productive aspects of eachinto a predictive capability for intermediate-scale coastal change.APPROACHThis project is designed to create interaction between European and North Americanscientists who are already involved in research related to intermediate scale coastalbehaviour. We have a four part approach to achieving this interaction. These areoutlined below, and details of work acheived so far in each are in the following section.A series of seven Workshops is planned over the lifetime of the project, with threeexpected to be held in Europe and four in the US.Exchanges of key personnel between the US and Europe have already begun. Weenvisage exchange visits lasting anywhere from a few days to several months, to allowreal collaboration in modelling, in fieldwork and in data analysis and interpretation. Amajor element in these exchanges is linking existing major projects in Europe fundedthrough the EC MAST programme, such as COAST3D, INDIA, SASME, PACE,with related major programmes in North America, such as the current Sandy Duckfield programme.The project also provides for the partial funding of researchers at the four Europeancentres (Plymouth, Wallingford (both UK), Twente (The Netherlands) and Lyngby(Denmark). These researchers will be central to the collaboration within this projct,and are expected to be the main beneficiaries of the proposed exchanges.Finally the project also provides for some additional research support to ensure thatbest use is made of the field expertise within the project. Two new ARGUS stationsare planned, for the two field sites of the EC-funded COAST3D project, and anexisting ARGUS station in the UK (Perranporth) will be upgraded by the installation ofan offshore pressure sensor array for tide and wave measurments.WORK COMPLETEDThis project nominally started on 1st May 1997 and has therefore been in existence forless than 6 months. Nevertheless a good start has been made on collaborativeactivities.Planning for the first of our Workshops is well advanced. The title is "How can weassess skill and predictability of coastal morphological forecasts?" and it will be held atHR Wallingford, UK 17th-19th November 1997. Guest speakers will discuss measuresof skill in oceanographic and meteological modelling, the current understanding ofchaos and non-linear systems, and the use of Baysian statistics for improvingpredictions. Project participants will also give presentations, but more than half of thetime will be devoted to discussions and workshop groups. The number of participantswill be limited to ensure a genuine workshop interaction.The first exchanges of researchers from Europe have begun. Visits to the SANDYDUCK experiment, some underway as this report is being written,  include two fromthe University of Plymouth (Drs Paul Russell and Mark Davidson), one from ISVA,Denmark (PhD student Nils Droenen), two from Holland (Dr Piet Hoekstra, UtrechtUniversity and Ad Reniers, Delft University and Delft Hydraulics) and one from HRWallingford (Dr Richard Whitehouse). Nils Droenen also visited Dalhousie Unversityduring his nearly three-week visit to North America. Richard Whitehouse also vistedUSACE, Vicksberg.Ad Reniers is collaborating with Ed Thornton, of the Naval Postgraduate School, totest a quasi-3D nearshore dynamics model, describing vertical profiles of  coupledcross-shore and longshore currents.  The effects of breaking, wind stress and tides areincluded in the model.  A cross-shore array of eight pressure sensors was used duringSANDY DUCK to measure wave transformation and set up/down.  A vertical array ofelectromagnetic current meters mounted on a mobile sled was used to measure verticalvelocity profiles.  Cross-shore transects of current profiles were obtained at least dailyduring a six week period comprising a variety of weather conditions. Comparisonswith model results show reasonable agreement.Appointment of partially funded researchers has also begun. At Plymouth a PhDstudent, Ken Kingston, started on 1st October and will be involved in the ARGUSsystems at Perranporth and the new system to be installed at Teignmouth. At ISVA,Denmark, Nils Droenen will be employed as Research Assistant in November andDecember 1997.A site survey for the new ARGUS system in the UK has been conducted, and plans forinstallation will be finalised when Rob Holman comes to the UK for the Workshopnext month. Following the Workshop Rob will also travel to Egmond to begininstallation of the new ARGUS there. Equipment for the pressure sensor array atPerranporth is on order and under construction and deployment should occur beforethe end of the year.RELATED PROJECTSSince the start of this project several EC MAST projects involving the PI's havereceived final approval and have either started (COAST3D, SASME) or are expectedto start next month (INDIA). The wide range of European projects envisaged in theproposal is therefore now a reality.REFERENCESThe SASME project has a Web page at : http://www.wldelft.nl/sasme/sasme.htm

Intermediate Scale Coastal Behaviour: Measurement, Modelling and Prediction

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Intermediate Scale Coastal Behaviour: Measurement, Modelling and Prediction

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