Binqing Wang

Ke Baozhu

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International Journal of Business and Social Science                                                Vol. 5, No. 12; November 2014 
149 
 
Analysis of the Hollowing Design on Knitwear 
 
WANG Binqing 
KE Baozhu 
Fashion Institute 
Shanghai University of Engineering Science 
Shanghai, China 
 
 
 
Abstract 
 
As people's life is in the direction of leisure, freedom and comfort, the requirements of garments have been 
changed from warm, durable to fashion and beautiful. The individual, fashion and applicative garments become 
more and more popular, and knitwear is no exception. Overlap, unevenness, and hollowing are the main ways of 
individual design of knitwear. And the hollowing design is the most popular. Rationale and forming technologies 
of hollowing have been introduced in this paper; Different effects that the design of hollowing could reach have 
been analyzed; And different styles of knitwear that use various kinds of hollowing design are generalized at last. 
 
Keywords: Knitwear; Hollowing; Design 
 
1. Introduction 
 
With the improvement of people’ life and cultural tastes, the requirements of knitwear has also been changed. Not 
only have leisure, fit and comfort are required, but fashion, beauty and novelty are also asked. So the design of 
knitwear has brand new demand. Hollowing design is unusual in the innovation of knitwear’ style. It is air 
permeable, artistic, and fashion. Because of its good air permeability and high exposures of skin, knitwear which 
has hollowing design is just worn in end of spring and early autumn. But with the development of knitting 
technologies and the variation of fashion trends, the application of hollowing design is more flexible, so the 
wearing of hollowing knitwear has no seasonal restrictions and hollowing design has satisfied the requirements of 
people’s pursuit of individuality and fashion. 
 
2. Shaping Technologies of Hollows on Knitwear 
 
The shaping technologies of hollow on knitwear have become more plentiful because of the change of human’s 
aesthetic taste and the development of modern machinery and equipment. Shaping technologies mainly include as 
follow. 
 
2.1 Using Loop Transfer Structure to Shape Hollows 
 
Loop transfer structure is to move some loops from one longitudinal structure line to another longitudinal 
structure line according to requirements of pattern design. And using loop transfer structure to shape hollows is a 
basic method[1]. 
 
Because there are two ways to transfer loops, loop transfer structure has two styles, including cross stitch and 
cable stitch. Cross stitch is to move loops to difference orientations to shape hollows on knitwear[2]. Figure 2-1 is 
the loopdiagram of cross stitch. Cable stitch is to transfer the loops which are adjacent on the basis of the 
requirements of pattern. Hollows also can be shaped by cable stitch. Figure2-2 is the loopdiagram of cable stitch. 
The style of hollow on the knitwear would be monotonous only using loop transfer structure. So it could be varied 
if coordinates knockover, as shown in the Figure 2-3. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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150 
 
 
 
2.2 Using Tucking Texture to Shape Hollows 
 
The hollow shaped by tucking texture is to use tuck loops to form uneven tiny holes. every tuck loop will form 
neighbouring holes[3-4]. Figure2-4 is the loopdiagram of tucking texture. With drawing yarns of the adjoining 
loops, loops in the unit of tucking texture will lengthen. But the height of tuck loops is unequal with other loops’ 
which are in the same line, and this forms an uneven surface. The more uneven surface of fabric is, the bigger 
hollow will be.  
 
2.3 Using Needle-Out Structure to Shape Hollows 
 
Hollowing pattern shaped by needle-out structure is maverick, exaggerated and artistic. The size and distribution 
of hollows are all optional, as shown in the Figure 2-5. If want to form large area of hollow, we can use needle-
out structure and loop transfer structure in the same time. when weaving fabric, we just need to move the needle-
out parts to the neighbouring knitting needles, then let the needles quit working and return to work after other 
needles having woven several line. 
 
2.4 Using Dropped Loop Structure to Shape Hollows  
 
Dropped loop structure is to drop stitch in the parts that are needed hollowed, which ends connection in 
longitudinal structure line and then shape hollow. The size of hollow is according to the number of neighbouring 
knitting needles of dropped stitch[5]. If want to form large area of hollow, dropped loop structure and tucking 
texture can be used together. The hollowing effect shaped by dropped loop structure is similar to what is shaped  
by needle-out structure, because they all will not make the yarn to shape a loop, just the state of yarn, as shown in  
the Figure 2-6. 
 
 
2.5 To Shape Hollows via Changing the Length of Loop 
 
To shape hollows via changing the length of loop can be easily formed by computerized flat knitting machine. We 
just make knitting needles that are on the corresponding needle bed form tucking loops in the same time via the 
needle selection technology of computerized flat knitting machine, and then let them out after weave. Hollows can 
be made by increasing the length of loops, as shown in the Figure 2-7. 
 
 
 
 
International Journal of Business and Social Science                                                Vol. 5, No. 12; November 2014 
151 
 
2.6 Using Different Thickness of Yarns to Shape Hollows 
 
Weaving fabric with different thickness of yarns make fabric surface has different thickness and density, and then 
form hollowing effect in thin place, as shown in Figure 2-8. 
 
2.7 Using Narrowing and Widening to Shape Hollows 
 
Using narrowing and widening can shape different sizes of hollows according to design. hollows will be free, 
optional and avant-garde, as shown in Figure 2-9. 
 
 
 
3. Effects of Hollowing Design on Knitwear 
 
There are plenty of shaping technologies of hollows on knitwear and different shaping technologies will form 
various effects that woven garment cannot achieve. Designers can integrate some of their beauty-appreciation and 
design concept into innovation of knitwear. 
 
3.1 Real and Fantasy Effect 
 
The real and fantasy effect expresses well texture and illusion. That is to say, this effect is a visual feeling which 
is made by hollowing fabric overlapping with body bare flesh. This effect can be formed by needle-out structure 
and dropped loop structure, as shown in Figure 2-5 and Figure 2-6. Using different thickness of yarns also can 
make this effect, as shown in Figure 2-8. 
 
3.2 Primary and secondary effect 
 
We can make use of hollowing design to show the primary and secondary effect while the color of hollowing 
fabric is similar or same with another layer of fabric which overlaps with the hollowing fabric. The technology 
used in Figure 2-3 is exactly primary and secondary effect that is showed by using hollows to set cable stitch off 
to advantage. 
 
3.3 Functional Effect 
 
Structure optimization also can be promoted by hollowing design. As shown in Figure 3-1, the hollowing parts are 
just human bones and joints. This application of hollowing design achieves the functionality of the garment 
design to some extent, and also has visual effect of beauty and individuality. 
 
3.4 Pattern Effect 
 
Taking advantage of hollowing design to form patterns is a common technique of knitwear design. Geometric and 
natural patterns(such as flower and animal patterns) are the main patterns. Geometric patterns are mainly shaped 
by computerized flat knitting machine and knitting pin, as shown in Figure 3-2. But the flower patterns are 
principally formed via crochet hook. and they are different and varied, as shown in Figure 3-3. 
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152 
 
4. Styles of Knitwear Formed by Hollowing Design  
 
Clothing design style is a integral visual effect of full collision force, which is formed by all components of 
clothing design such as colors, fabrics, style and clothing accessories[6]. Different hollowing techniques will form 
different knitwear styles, such as follows. 
 
4.1 Classic Style 
 
Hollowing design of classic knitwear style is usually more simple and generous, but it is unique and can withstand 
the test of time, and accepted by most people. The hollows of this style is small and close and forms a relatively 
conservative sexy, as shown in Figure 4-1. 
 
4.2 Lovely Style 
 
Hollowing design of lovely knitwear style focuses on showing girls’ cute, humorous, simple and plain intrinsic 
nature. The color of this style is pure, fresh, soft and lively. In the meantime, color lightness is taller. In this style 
design, knitwear will be ornamented with lace and bow-tie frequently to express young girls' feelings of beauty. 
What’s more, patterns of lovely cartoon and concise geometry are also powerful expression of lovely style. The 
hollows of this style is small, and the entirety is concise and not heavy or complicated, as shown in Figure 4-2. 
 
4.3 Rural Style 
 
In the hollowing design of rural knitwear style, floral print and checks are the main performance materials. And 
this style knitwear is always interspersed with bright color falbala to bring a feeling of leisurely rural life and a 
spirit back to nature. Rural style are often have regular hollowing shapes that have outstanding details but no 
complication. we will feel a warm and sweet mood rural style design, as shown in Figure 4-3. 
 
4.4 Complex Style 
 
Complex style hollowing knitwear is formed by advanced techniques and looks delicate. This style lays emphasis 
on creation of layered sense of the fabric and processing of details. Hollowing effect of complex style always has 
exaggerated and gorgeous patterns. The sizes of hollows are discrepant. Complex style has luxurious and elegant 
beauty, as shown in Figure 4-4. 
  
International Journal of Business and Social Science                                                Vol. 5, No. 12; November 2014 
153 
 
 
4.5 Romantic Style 
 
We can experience the feelings of femininity, grace, soft and elegance by romantic style hollowing knitwear. The 
romance that is presented by romantic style knitwear is a new sense of interpretation. In other words, it is a 
regression of radical and unaffected romance elements[7]. The hollows of this style is small and close, but has a 
special distribution. This style pursues a kind of unaffected, soft and emotional beauty, as shown in Figure 4-5. 
 
4.6 Casual Style 
 
Blocks, strips and words are often use as ornament in casual style hollowing knitwear. A great number of people 
love to wear this style knitwear because it is full of vigorous and urban breath. Concise line, brief material and 
pure color are the main features of this style. The distribution of hollow is casual, with no limitations. It expresses 
a leisurely psychological state.  Knitwear in Figure 4-6 is a typical example of casual style. 
 
4.7 Avant-Garde Style 
 
In pursuit of expressing individuality to break the habits is the main feature of avant-garde style hollowing 
knitwear. Concealing, thermal protection and cold-proof functions are not the considerations of avant-garde style 
hollowing knitwear design any more. Understanding, attitude, idea, and emotion of life will be expressed in 
knitwear. Hollows of this style are big and exaggerated. Knitwear has regular mixed irregular distribution and 
artistic post-modern flavor, as shown in Figure 4-7. 
 
 
 
5. Conclusion 
 
After entering the new century, personalized and fashionized hollowing design of knitwear follows the changing 
trend of public lifestyle. Hollowing design plays an important role in knitwear design and has broad promotion 
space and unlimited business opportunities. With today's post-industrial highly developed, computerized flat 
knitting machine is widely used in knitwear industry and becomes the main equipment to shape hollow because it 
has multiple forming technologies. It can form variety of effects when used together with crochet hook and 
knitting pin.  
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154 
 
Different style of hollowing knitwear can be formed by using various technologies, diverse yarn, multiple 
distribution and different size of hollow. Different knitwear meet different preference of people and open up a 
broader market. 
 
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2002： ．106  
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Analysis of the Hollowing Design on Knitwear

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Analysis of the Hollowing Design on Knitwear

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