Wave dissipation on a complex coral reef: An experimental study

Atolls and coral islands in and around the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean largely rely on coral reefs for their coastal protection. On these reefs a large roughness is created by different coral species. The dissipative character of these species reduces the incident wave height, thereby reducing the amount of run-up on the coast. In our current society we are confronted with large issues due to climate change such as global sea level rise and temperature rise. Because of these issues, coral reefs are more prone to bleaching and degradation. Research has also shown that the wave climate will intensify due to sea level rise. As the sea level will rise globally, the water level above the rough coral elements will increase leading to less wave dissipation and more extreme wave conditions at the coast. It is therefore of vast importance to gather more knowledge about the dissipative character of corals to quantify the risks coral reef islands and atolls will face in the coming decades due to climate change. For this master thesis, an experimental study was performed in the wave flume of the Fluid Mechanics Laboratory of the Technical University of Delft, investigating dissipation rates due to complex corals. 384 corals were reproduced and exposed to 21 different wave conditions. It was found that the presence of corals significantly enhanced dissipation rates. Shallower water depths, higher wave frequencies, and higher wave heights positively influenced the dissipation rates due to the corals. By increasing the amount of corals in flumewise direction and over the cross section, rates also increased. Lowe et al. (2005b) and Lowe et al. (2007) developed a canopy model that is able to estimate in-canopy flow velocities and dissipation rates due to coral canopies. In the final part of this thesis, this canopy model was assessed and its output was compared with the experimental results. In general, the model predictions were in good agreement with the experimental results. The research presented in this thesis is a contribution to the understanding of hydrodynamic processes around coral reefs. The good performance of the analytical model of Lowe et al. (2005b) and Lowe et al. (2007) can be of value for quantifying risks atolls and coral reef islands will face in the coming decades. The model can also be used to estimate the impact of coral restoration projects, when coastal protection is of the essence.<br/

Dune erosion during storm surges: A review of the observations, physics and modelling of the collision regime

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical modelling have developed with time, which enabled a more comprehensive description and new predictive techniques. This review concerns dune erosion in the collision regime, and summarises relevant observations, describes underlying processes and explains existing models predicting dune erosion. Observations of dune erosion consist of field observations, laboratory experiments and manipulative field campaigns. The underlying physical processes that contribute to dune erosion are divided into processes that contribute to sediment transport due to hydrodynamic forcing, which occurs in the surf and swash zone, and sediment transport due to avalanching, which occurs in the swash zone, on the dune face and on the dune crest. The existing dune erosion models that are discussed here contain (empirical) equilibrium profile models and process-based models, which can both be a valuable tool for the risk assessment of storm surges. However, model uncertainties still remain, as specific processes are not yet fully understood and described. Examples are the influences of wave obliquity, sediment grain size, and vegetation on the dune face. By improving our knowledge through research and reducing these uncertainties, we can further improve our predictive models. This could eventually lead to more accurate predictions, more complete risk assessments, and sandy coastlines which are more resilient to excessive dune erosion and possible floods.Coastal EngineeringEnvironmental Fluid MechanicsHydraulic Engineerin

Avalanching of the dune face: field observations and equilibrium theory

A field experiment to study dune erosion was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from November 7th 2021 to January 7th 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed near the high water line, and experienced significant erosion through avalanching during three storms. This paper aims to identify what drives dune erosion through avalanching by using the collected data and equilibrium theory. Results suggest that the cumulative volume eroded through avalanching during a single high water is positively correlated with the profile mismatch between the pre-storm profile and a ‘storm equilibrium profile’, described by a 2/3rd power law, an empirical coefficient A, and the total water level. This mismatch is quantified by calculating the area integral of the profile that is acquired when the upper 35 m of the pre-storm profile is subtracted from the upper 35 m of the equilibrium profile. Avalanching commences when this mismatch becomes larger than approximately 0, after which 1 m3/m of sediment erodes from the dune face for every 3 m3/m mismatch. In addition, during one event avalanching occurred even though the elevation of the total water level did not exceed the initial elevation of the dune toe. This implies that a total water level that exceeds the initial elevation of the dune toe is not a requisite for avalanching and a collision regime to occur, which contradicts conventional definitions of dune erosion regimes. These results have implications on risk assessment of storm conditions on dune erosion.Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.Coastal EngineeringEnvironmental Fluid Mechanic

Dune erosion during storm surges: The realdune/reflex experiment at the sand engine

Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required.An international field experiment was conducted to study dune erosion during storm surges from November 6 2021 until January 6 2022. on the Sand Engine. During the Realdune/Reflex experiment, two prototype un-vegetated dunes of 5.5 m high and 150 m long were built just above the high waterline. Due to a different shoreline orientation and nearshore bathymetry, these dunes eroded differently during moderate storm conditions. 3 storms were captured during the campaign.This abstract presents preliminary results of morphodynamic change during these 3 storms, by means of profile changes and erosion volumes.Coastal EngineeringEnvironmental Fluid Mechanic

The effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion: A field experiment

Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required. One of such processes is the effect of wave obliquity on sediment transport in the surf zone. Classic dune erosion models assume that dune erosion volumes decrease under oblique wave attack, because the time-averaged cross-shore undertow decreases in magnitude and with that offshore directed sediment transport decreases (Steetzel, 1993). More recent process-based erosion models predict an increase in erosion quantities, because the generated longshore currents increase surf zone sediment concentrations, and with that offshore directed sediment transport increases (Den Heijer, 2013). The main objective of this study is to analyse the effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion through a field experiment, by quantifying the effect of the decreasing undertow but increasing alongshore current on sediment concentrations in the surf zone.Coastal EngineeringEnvironmental Fluid MechanicsCivil Engineering & Geoscience

Continuous Wave Measurements Collected in Intermediate Depth throughout the North Sea Storm Season during the RealDune/REFLEX Experiments

High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions that force models. Here, we present a wave data set collected in the North Sea at three stations in intermediate water depth (6–14 m) during the 2021/2022 storm season as part of the RealDune/REFLEX experiments. Continuous measurements of synchronized surface elevation, velocity and pressure were recorded at 2–4 Hz by Acoustic Doppler Profilers and an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter for a 5-month duration. Time series were quality-controlled, directional-frequency energy spectra were calculated and common bulk parameters were derived. Measured wave conditions vary from calm to energetic with 0.1–5.0 m sea-swell wave height, 5–16 s mean wave period and W-NNW direction. Nine storms, i.e., wave height beyond 2.5 m for at least six hours, were recorded including the triple storms Dudley, Eunice and Franklin. This unique data set can be used to investigate wave transformation, wave nonlinearity and wave directionality for higher and lower frequencies (e.g., sea-swell and infragravity waves) to compare with theoretical and empirical descriptions. Furthermore, the data can serve to force, calibrate and validate models during storm conditions. Dataset: https://doi.org/10.4121/233f11ff-7804-4777-8b32-92c4606e56d8 Dataset License: CC-BY 4.0.Environmental Fluid MechanicsCoastal Engineerin

Measurements of dune erosion processes during the RealDune/REFLEX experiments

Nearshore hydro- and morphodynamic data were collected during a field experiment under calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime. The experiment was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from October 18, 2021, to January 7, 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed just above the high water line to measure storm erosion and dune impacts from higher water levels and waves. During the experiment, three storms occurred that resulted in significant erosion of both dunes. The collected hydrodynamic data include pressure sensor and velocimeter data along two cross-shore transects. The collected morphodynamic data include bathymetry and topography surveys, optical backscatter sensor data in the inner surf zone, and a continuous cross-shore line-scanning lidar data set of the dune face. This comprehensive data set can be used to (1) study relevant nearshore hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes that occur during calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime, and (2) validate existing dune erosion models.Coastal EngineeringEnvironmental Fluid Mechanic

Cross-shore transformation of bound and free infragravity waves off the Dutch coast

Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG waves, such as those radiated from distant coastlines, is neglected. Recent studies however suggest that incoming free IG waves could be significant, particularly in semi-enclosed basins such as the North Sea where they could contribute to coastal hazards (e.g., Reniers et al., 2021, Rijnsdorp et al. 2021). The objective of this work is to improve the understanding of the incoming IG wave field along the Dutch coast. We will quantify how bound and free IG waves develop in intermediate water depths and assess in which conditions (onshore directed) free IG waves become significant.Environmental Fluid MechanicsCoastal Engineerin