Estimation and Analysis of JONSWAP Spectrum Parameter Using Observed Data around Korean Coast

The relationship between significant wave height (H1/3) and period (T1/3) was obtained using wave data from the East and Yellow coasts of the Korean Peninsula to facilitate the calculations of the wave parameters. In addition, the JONSWAP spectral parameters were estimated and analyzed for all wave height ranges. The relational expression between the two wave variables (H1/3~T1/3) obtained from this study showed a significant difference from the previously proposed relational expressions, most of which tended to follow the lower limit of the data. Meanwhile, the suggested peak enhancement factor (PEF, γ) is 1–7; however, for this study, a peak control factor (PCF, γc) with a range of 0–10 was introduced. As a result of the analysis, the PCF was determined to be 1.13–1.42, which is approximately 40% smaller than the previously proposed γ = 3.3. The probability density distribution of the appropriate PCF was then calculated, and the gamma and log-normal distributions for the East and Yellow coasts of the Korean Peninsula were found, respectively. This study covered waves of all range heights, and the analysis results can be used as important data to explain the characteristics of the sea area

Estimation and Analysis of JONSWAP Spectrum Parameter Using Observed Data around Korean Coast

The relationship between significant wave height (H1/3) and period (T1/3) was obtained using wave data from the East and Yellow coasts of the Korean Peninsula to facilitate the calculations of the wave parameters. In addition, the JONSWAP spectral parameters were estimated and analyzed for all wave height ranges. The relational expression between the two wave variables (H1/3~T1/3) obtained from this study showed a significant difference from the previously proposed relational expressions, most of which tended to follow the lower limit of the data. Meanwhile, the suggested peak enhancement factor (PEF, γ) is 1–7; however, for this study, a peak control factor (PCF, γc) with a range of 0–10 was introduced. As a result of the analysis, the PCF was determined to be 1.13–1.42, which is approximately 40% smaller than the previously proposed γ = 3.3. The probability density distribution of the appropriate PCF was then calculated, and the gamma and log-normal distributions for the East and Yellow coasts of the Korean Peninsula were found, respectively. This study covered waves of all range heights, and the analysis results can be used as important data to explain the characteristics of the sea area

On the Separation Period Discriminating Gravity and Infragravity Waves off Gyeongpo Beach, Korea

Although there have been a number of studies investigating fundamental characteristics of infragravity waves in coastal zones, a proper method of deciding period ranges that are associated with gravity or infragravity waves remains uncertain. In this study, we proposed an empirical method of separating spectral energies of gravity and infragravity waves by analyzing the wave observation data acquired off Gyeongpo beach on the Korean east coast. The fundamental principle of the suggested method is to represent the separation period discriminating gravity and infragravity waves as a function of the significant wave period, rather than a fixed value that was conventionally applied in previous studies. As a consequence of using the new method, the relationships between heights and periods of gravity and infragravity waves were more clearly identified

High Waves in the West Coast of Korea during Winter Season Generated by Excessively Developed Low Pressure

AbstractCharacteristics of the high waves arriving on the west coast of Korea areintensively examined based on the analysis of long-term coastal wave observation data obtained at multiple locations as well as some available meteorological data. It was clarified that the rapid drop of the atmospheric pressures during the development and evolution of the extra-tropical cyclone is the chief reason for the occurrence of high waves in the Yellow Sea. Directly influenced by this meteorological phenomenon, very strong winds tend to blow extensively over the entire sea region and evoke generation of high waves. Since the wave field is predominantly governed by the local wind field, the temporal variation of wave height and period is very closely related to that of the wind speed. Hence, characteristics ofthe high waves appeared in the Korean west coastare found to be wind waves rather than swel

Wave Height Reduction Inside Pohang New Port, Korea, Due to the Construction of a Detached Breakwater

The effect of a detached breakwater, which was constructed to improve harbor tranquility inside Pohang New Port, was examined through the comparison of wave data measured before and after the construction of the breakwater. The observation data showed that the wave energy was effectively reduced by the breakwater, although the wave height measured outside the breakwater was higher after its construction. The wave energy was reduced in all of the measured wave-propagating directions, but it was also observed that the breakwater became less effective in protecting against northeastwaves than in protecting against NNE waves. The BOUSS-2D Boussinesq-type wave model was employed to analyze the pattern of wave propagation, showing that, before the breakwater’s construction, NE waves could directly enter the port, increasing the wave energy inside the port. After the breakwater’s construction, simulations showed that the detached breakwater effectively blocked the waves approaching the port from both the NNE and NE directions, although the wave heights of the waves from the extreme NE direction inside the port increased. Considering that the estimated probability of failing to preserve the port tranquility was only 0.2–0.5% for these extreme NE waves, it was concluded that no secondary structures were necessary, and the existing breakwater was sufficient for the protection of the port

Wave Energy in Korean Seas from 12-Year Wave Hindcasting

In this study, a numerical simulation is performed to produce wave hindcasting data from 2007 to 2018 for the assessment of wave energy resources in the sea waters of Korea. The hindcasting data are obtained with a relatively fine spatial resolution of 1/20° covering 120–150 °E longitude and 22.4–47.6 °N latitude using the Simulating WAves Nearshore wave model (SWAN). Three different wind fields, those of the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather (ECMWF), National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP), and Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA), are used for the numerical wave simulation. It is observed that the wind field dataset of JMA exhibits the best agreement with available field observation data. For this reason, the wave energy resources are evaluated based on the data hindcasted using the JMA wind field. It is found that the overall magnitudes of wave energy are larger in winter than in summer. The wave energy in August, however, is comparable to the mean wave energy during winter because of the influence of frequent high wave events caused by typhoons. The highest monthly average wave power around Yellow Sea, South Sea, East Sea, and Jeju Island are 13.3, 18.2, 13.7, and 40 kW/m, respectively

Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Using Video Monitoring Shoreline Data

Video monitoring systems (VMS) have been used for beach status observation but are not effective for examining detailed beach processes as they only measure changes to the shoreline and backshore. Here, we extracted longshore sediment transport (LST) from VMS in order to investigate long- and short-term littoral processes on a pocket beach. LST estimated by applying one-line theory, wave power, and the oblique angle of incident waves were used to understand shoreline changes caused by severe winter storms. The estimated LST showed good agreement with the shoreline changes because the sediments were trapped at one end of the pocket beach and the alongshore direction of transported sediments was corresponded to the direction of LST. The results also showed that the beach that was severely eroded during storms was also rapidly recovered following the evolution of LST, which indicates that the LST may play a role in the recovery process while the erosion was mainly caused by the cross-shore transport due to storm waves. After the beach was nourished, beach changes became more active, even under lower wave energy conditions, owing to the equilibrium process. The analysis presented in this study could be applied to study inhomogeneous beach processes at other sites

Hydrodynamic Measurements of Propagating Waves at Different Nearshore Depths in Hujeong Beach, Korea

This paper reports the results of hydrodynamic measurements at two different water depths to observe wave properties in the course of wave propagation, especially during storm periods, in Hujeong Beach, Korea. In addition to hydrodynamic measurements, video monitoring data and satellite images from Sentinel-II were employed to compare the temporal changes in shoreline positions and shallow water bathymetry during the storms. Through combination of a variety of observational data sets, the accuracy of analysis could be enhanced by preventing possible misinterpretation. Two significant storms were observed from two experiments conducted at different times and locations of the beach. The hydrodynamic conditions were similar in both of the periods in terms of wave and current conditions as well as wave nonlinearity such as skewness. However, the response of shoreline during the two storms was the opposite because it was eroded during the first storm but advanced during the second storm. This suggests that other controlling factors such as storm duration need to be investigated to support the analysis of cross-shore sediment transport and consequent shoreline evolution for future studies

Concentrations of blood and urinary arsenic species and their characteristics in general Korean population

Arsenic (As) exposure has been extensively studied by investigating As species (e.g., inorganic arsenic (iAs), monomethylarsonic acid (MMA), and dimethylarsinic acid (DMA)) in urine, yet recent research suggests that blood could be a possible biomarker of As exposure. These investigations, however, were conducted on iAs-contaminated areas, and evidence on populations exposed to low levels of iAs is limited. This study aimed to describe the levels and distributions of As species in urine and blood, as well as to estimate methylation efficiency and related factors in the Korean population. Biological samples were obtained by the Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. A total of 2025 urine samples and 598 blood samples were utilized in this study. Six As species were measured using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography with inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (UPLC-ICP-MS): As(V), As(III), MMA, DMA, arsenobetaine (AsB), and arsenocholine (AsC). Mul-tiple linear regression models were used to examine the relationship between As species (concentrations and proportions) and covariates. AsB was the most prevalent species in urine and blood. The relative composition of iAs, MMA, DMA, and AsC in urine and blood differed significantly. Consumption of blue-backed fish was linked to higher levels of AsB in urine and blood. Type of drinking water and multigrain rice consumption were associated with increased iAs concentration in urine. Except for iAs, every species had correlations in urine and blood in both univariate and multivariate analyses. Adolescents and smokers presented a lower methylation efficiency (higher %MMA and lower %DMA in urine) and females presented a higher methylation efficiency (lower %iAs, %MMA, and higher %DMA in urine). In conclusion, blood iAs concentration cannot represent urinary iAs; nonetheless, different compositions of urine and blood might reflect distinct information about iAs exposure. Further investigations on exposure factors and health are needed using low-exposure groups.N