Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Freak waves are very large, rare events in a random ocean wave train. Here we study the numerical generation of freak waves in a random sea state characterized by the JONSWAP power spectrum. We assume, to cubic order in nonlinearity, that the wave dynamics are governed by the nonlinear Schroedinger (NLS) equation. We identify two parameters in the power spectrum that control the nonlinear dynamics: the Phillips parameter $\alpha$ and the enhancement coefficient $\gamma$. We discuss how freak waves in a random sea state are more likely to occur for large values of $\alpha$ and $\gamma$. Our results are supported by extensive numerical simulations of the NLS equation with random initial conditions. Comparison with linear simulations are also reported.Comment: 7 pages, 6 figures, to be published in Phys. Rev. Let

Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence of Random Currents

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation are considered. First, we show that when the average wave steepness is small and nonlinear wave effects are subleading, the wave height distribution is well explained by a single "freak index" parameter, which describes the strength of (linear) wave scattering by random currents relative to the angular spread of the incoming random sea. When the average steepness is large, the wave height distribution takes a very similar functional form, but the key variables determining the probability distribution are the steepness, and the angular and frequency spread of the incoming waves. Finally, even greater probability of extreme wave formation is predicted when linear and nonlinear effects are acting together.Comment: 25 pages, 12 figure

Nonlinear wave interaction in coastal and open seas -- deterministic and stochastic theory

We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model situations of interest, such as the mild slope and modified mild slope equations, the Zakharov equation, or the nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation. These deterministic equations yield accompanying stochastic equations for averaged quantities of the sea-state, like the spectrum or bispectrum. We discuss several of these in depth, touching on recent results about the stability of open ocean spectra to inhomogeneous disturbances, as well as new stochastic equations for the nearshore