Unravelling photoprotection in microbial natural products

Mycosporine-like amino acids have long been known as a natural form of photoprotection for fungi and cyanobacteria. This review will highlight the key time-resolved experimental and theoretical techniques unravelling their photochemistry and photophysics, and directly link this to their use in commercial skin-care products, namely as sunscreen filters. Three case studies have been selected, each having aided advancement in this burgeoning field of research. We discuss these studies in the context of photoprotection and conclude by evaluating the necessary future steps towards translating the photochemistry and photophysics insight of these nature derived sunscreen filters to commercial application

Observing and understanding the ultrafast photochemistry in small molecules : applications to sunscreens

In this review we discuss the importance of biological and artificial photoprotection against overexposure to harmful ultraviolet radiation. Transient electronic and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopies are highlighted as important tools in understanding the energy transfer in small molecules, with a focus on the application to commercial sunscreens with representative examples given. Oxybenzone, a common ingredient in commercial sunscreens and sinapoyl malate, a biological sunscreen in plant leaves are presented as case studies

Applications of ultrafast spectroscopy to sunscreen development, from first principles to complex mixtures

Sunscreen formulations have been developed to provide an artificial protective barrier against the deleterious effects of overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation in humans. Ultrafast pump-probe spectroscopy techniques have been an invaluable tool in recent years for determining the photochemistry of active ingredients in sunscreen formulations, predominantly UV filters, in both the gas- and solution-phases. These measurements have enabled the elucidation of molecular relaxation pathways and photoprotection mechanisms, which are in turn insightful for assessing a filter's photostability and suitability for sunscreen use. In this review, we discuss the benefits of a bottom-up approach: the progression from the study of UV filters for sunscreens in vacuum, away from the influences of any solvent; in solution, to investigate the relaxation pathways of potential sunscreen filters in closer to real-life conditions, whilst exploring the merits of selective functionalisation to improve their characteristics; and beyond, to current advances that are mimicking the application of sunscreen formulations to the surface of the skin

Observing and understanding the ultrafast photochemistry in small molecules: applications to sunscreens

In this review we discuss the importance of biological and artificial photoprotection against overexposure to harmful ultraviolet radiation. Transient electronic and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopies are highlighted as important tools in understanding the energy transfer in small molecules, with a focus on the application to commercial sunscreens with representative examples given. Oxybenzone, a common ingredient in commercial sunscreens and sinapoyl malate, a biological sunscreen in plant leaves are presented as case studies

From fundamental science to product : a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable s kin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10 - 15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10 - 12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom - up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research

New insights into the dissociation dynamics of methylated anilines

Aniline, an important model system for biological chromophores, undergoes ultrafast H-atom loss upon absorption of an ultraviolet photon. By varying the number and position of methyl substituents on both the aromatic ring and amine functional group, we explore the ultrafast production of photofragments as a function of molecular structure. Both N-methyl aniline and 3,5-dimethyl aniline show altered H-atom loss behaviour compared to aniline, while no evidence for CH3 loss was found from either N-methyl aniline or N,N-dimethyl aniline. With the addition of time-resolved photoelectron spectroscopy, the photofragment appearance times are matched to excited state relaxation pathways. Evidence for a sequential excited state relaxation mechanism, potentially involving a valence-to-Rydberg decay mechanism, will be presented. Such a global, bottom-up approach to molecular photochemistry is crucial to understanding the dissociative pathways and excited state decay mechanisms of biomolecule photoprotection in nature

Unravelling the photoprotective mechanisms of nature-inspired ultraviolet filters using ultrafast spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens

Time-resolved velocity map imaging of methyl elimination from photoexcited anisole

To date, H-atom elimination from heteroaromatic molecules following UV excitation has been extensively studied, with the focus on key biological molecules such as chromophores of DNA bases and amino acids. Extending these studies to look at elimination of other non-hydride photoproducts is essential in creating a more complete picture of the photochemistry of these biomolecules in the gas-phase. To this effect, CH3 elimination in anisole has been studied using time resolved velocity map imaging (TR-VMI) for the first time, providing both time and energy information on the dynamics following photoexcitation at 200 nm. The extra dimension of energy afforded by these measurements has enabled us to address the role of πσ* states in the excited state dynamics of anisole as compared to the hydride counterpart (phenol), providing strong evidence to suggest that only CH3 fragments eliminated with high kinetic energy are due to direct dissociation involving a 1πσ* state. These measurements also suggest that indirect mechanisms such as statistical unimolecular decay could be contributing to the dynamics at much longer times

A perspective on the ultrafast photochemistry of solution-phase sunscreen molecules

Sunscreens are one of the most common ways of providing on-demand additional photoprotection to the skin. Ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy has recently proven to be an invaluable tool in understanding how the components of commercial sunscreen products display efficient photoprotection. Important examples of how this technique has unravelled the photodynamics of common components are given in this Perspective, and some of the remaining unanswered questions are discussed

Photophysics of sunscreen molecules in the gas phase : a stepwise approach towards understanding and developing next-generation sunscreens

The relationship between exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and skin cancer urges the need for extra photoprotection, which is presently provided by widespread commercially available sunscreen lotions. Apart from having a large absorption cross section in the UVA and UVB regions of the electromagnetic spectrum, the chemical absorbers in these photoprotective products should also be able to dissipate the excess energy in a safe way, i.e. without releasing photoproducts or inducing any further, harmful, photochemistry. While sunscreens are tested for both their photoprotective capability and dermatological compatibility, phenomena occurring at the molecular level upon absorption of UV radiation are largely overlooked. To date, there is only a limited amount of information regarding the photochemistry and photophysics of these sunscreen molecules. However, a thorough understanding of the intrinsic mechanisms by which popular sunscreen molecular constituents dissipate excess energy has the potential to aid in the design of more efficient, safer sunscreens. In this review, we explore the potential of using gas-phase frequency- and time-resolved spectroscopies in an effort to better understand the photoinduced excited-state dynamics, or photodynamics, of sunscreen molecules. Complementary computational studies are also briefly discussed. Finally, the future outlook of expanding these gas-phase studies into the solution phase is considered