Investigation of Factors Influencing Rise in Needle Temperature to Enhance the Production and Seam Performance –part I

The most recent industrial sewing machines are designed and developed to give high production and quality. These machines are capable to operate at very high speed. On the other hand, the sewing machines operated at high speed are facing the challenge of very high needle temperature generation which leads to seam damages like burnt holes, stiff seam, molten seam etc. Such seam damages are serious issue and affects the performance of the garment produced. An attempt was taken to analyze the factors influencing the rise in needle temperature change during sewing to derive exact solution to the problem. Thermal camera was set up in the sewing machine and change in needle temperature under varying influencing parameter was recorded and taken for analysis. From this study, it is found that twill fabric and interlock fabric with superimposed seam of four layers and high needle tension produced higher needle temperature. The other factors such as sewing thread, stitch density, needle size etc falls in next level of contribution

Badanie właściwości komfortu termicznego różnych rodzajów dzianin poliestrowych

This research focused on the thermal comfort behaviour of polyester with respect to the type of yarn (spun, micro denier, continuous filament and hollow), linear density of the yarn (111 and 166 dtex), and the loop length of knitted fabric (0.25, 0.27 and 0.29 cm).The air permeability of continuous filament yarn fabric and micro denier yarn knitted fabrics was noted to be higher than that of spun yarn knitted fabrics. 111 dtex micro denier yarn fabric has the highest air permeability and 111 dtex spun yarn fabric the lowest air permeability value among all the other fabric samples. Comparatively, coarser spun yarn fabric has lower air permeability characteristics than finer microdenier fabric.The water permeability of the fabric shows a significant difference between the spun yarn, continuous filament yarn and Micro denier yarn knitted fabrics and between the linear density of the yarn. The water vapour permeability of spun yarn of 166 dtex single jersey fabric is higher, while the water vapour permeability of continuous filament yarn fabric of 166 dtex is lower. The thermal conductivity value is high for continuous filament polyester fabric of 100 D and low for microdenier polyester fabric of 166 dtex. Based on the statistical analysis, it is clearly shown that there are significant differences between the three different polyester yarn fabrics of two different denier of the same fabric. Furthermore, the count and different polyester yarn affect the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics.Badania koncentrowały się na zachowaniu komfortu cieplnego poliestru w odniesieniu do rodzaju przędzy, gęstości liniowej przędzy (111 dtex i 166 dtex) oraz długości pętelki dzianiny (0,25 cm, 0,27 cm oraz 0,29 cm). Zbadano właściwości wytworzonych dzianin takie jak: przepuszczalność powietrza, wody, pary wodnej oraz przewodność cieplną, a wyniki poddano analizie statystycznej