Modelling of annual sand transports at the Dutch lower shoreface

Dutch coastal policy aims for a safe, economically strong and attractive coast. This is achieved by maintaining the part of the coast that support these functions; the coastal foundation. The coastal foundation is maintained by means of sand nourishments. Up to now, it has been assumed that net transports across the coastal foundation's offshore boundary at the 20 m depth contour are negligibly small. In the framework of the Coastal Genesis 2.0 program we investigate sand transports across this boundary and across other depth contours at the lower shoreface. The purpose of this paper is to provide knowledge for a well-founded choice of the seaward boundary of the coastal foundation. The lower shoreface is the zone where the mixed action of shoreface currents (tide-, wind- and density gradient driven) and shoaling and refracting waves is predominant. Transport rates are relatively small and hence the bed levels in the lower shoreface undergo relatively slow changes

Numerical model configurations for "A synthetic spring-neap tidal cycle for long-term morphological modelling"

The dataset includes all Delft3D-FM model configurations used for the results in the paper "A synthetic spring-neap tidal cycle for long-term morphological modelling". The model output files are not included. The original datasets used for constructing model input are not included as well, but are freely accessible. See the paper for references

Observations of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms on the Dutch lower shoreface

The lower shoreface, with water depths between about 8 and 20 m, forms the transition between the inner shelf and upper shoreface. Knowledge of the lower shoreface is essential, as it is – in many cases – the sediment source for the upper shoreface and beach. This paper presents new data of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms at various depths and locations on the Dutch lower shoreface. Near-bed orbital velocities were beyond 1 m/s during high-energetic wave conditions. They increase with wave height and decrease with water depth, and can be reasonably well described by linear wave theory. Ripple heights range between 0.01−0.03 m and ripple lengths between 0.08−0.20 m. Ripple dimensions are controlled by wave mobility, with lower and shorter ripples for higher waves, and not so much by the currents. The Van Rijn (2007) formula generally overpredicts the ripple heights, and the variation with tidal currents in time. The measurements clearly indicate significant sediment mobility at the lower shoreface under higher wave events. It is yet unclear what this means for the net sand transport. This will depend on the subtle timing of sediment suspension, wave-mean currents and near-bed orbital velocities. It requires detailed modeling to determine lower shoreface net transport rates, and to unravel the controlling sand transport mechanisms

Observations of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms on the Dutch lower shoreface

The lower shoreface, with water depths between about 8 and 20 m, forms the transition between the inner shelf and upper shoreface. Knowledge of the lower shoreface is essential, as it is – in many cases – the sediment source for the upper shoreface and beach. This paper presents new data of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms at various depths and locations on the Dutch lower shoreface. Near-bed orbital velocities were beyond 1 m/s during high-energetic wave conditions. They increase with wave height and decrease with water depth, and can be reasonably well described by linear wave theory. Ripple heights range between 0.01−0.03 m and ripple lengths between 0.08−0.20 m. Ripple dimensions are controlled by wave mobility, with lower and shorter ripples for higher waves, and not so much by the currents. The Van Rijn (2007) formula generally overpredicts the ripple heights, and the variation with tidal currents in time. The measurements clearly indicate significant sediment mobility at the lower shoreface under higher wave events. It is yet unclear what this means for the net sand transport. This will depend on the subtle timing of sediment suspension, wave-mean currents and near-bed orbital velocities. It requires detailed modeling to determine lower shoreface net transport rates, and to unravel the controlling sand transport mechanisms

Observations of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms on the Dutch lower shoreface

The lower shoreface, with water depths between about 8 and 20 m, forms the transition between the inner shelf and upper shoreface. Knowledge of the lower shoreface is essential, as it is – in many cases – the sediment source for the upper shoreface and beach. This paper presents new data of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms at various depths and locations on the Dutch lower shoreface. Near-bed orbital velocities were beyond 1 m/s during high-energetic wave conditions. They increase with wave height and decrease with water depth, and can be reasonably well described by linear wave theory. Ripple heights range between 0.01−0.03 m and ripple lengths between 0.08−0.20 m. Ripple dimensions are controlled by wave mobility, with lower and shorter ripples for higher waves, and not so much by the currents. The Van Rijn (2007) formula generally overpredicts the ripple heights, and the variation with tidal currents in time. The measurements clearly indicate significant sediment mobility at the lower shoreface under higher wave events. It is yet unclear what this means for the net sand transport. This will depend on the subtle timing of sediment suspension, wave-mean currents and near-bed orbital velocities. It requires detailed modeling to determine lower shoreface net transport rates, and to unravel the controlling sand transport mechanisms

Land Reclamation Controls on Estuarine Morphological Evolution

The morphological configuration of estuaries and tidal basins influences future development because the channel-flat pattern and geometry control tidal dynamics and, as a result, residual sediment transport patterns. Large-scale human alteration of estuarine plan-form and channel dimensions, as a result of land reclamation, influences long-term evolution, because the existing balance of sediment import versus export is disrupted. The morphodynamic response to land reclamation is, however, slow, impacting the system for decades to centuries. Consequently, there are usually multiple human interventions cumulatively impacting the system. Our understanding of the cumulative effects of land reclamation and other anthropogenic interference is limited because observations usually do not span the complete morphological adaptation time. The Ems estuary (bordering The Netherlands and Germany) provides an unique site to study the effects of the cumulative impact of land reclamations and 20th-century human interference. Extensive storm surge-formed basins have been gradually reclaimed over a period of 500 years in this well-documented estuary, and dredging works dominated in the past century. Our objective is to quantify the effects of land reclamations and channel dredging on the historic evolution of the Ems estuary from century-scale observations combined with numerical morphodynamic modelling.We compiled a digitized bathymetric dataset, spanning nearly the full reclamation period, from historical maps, nautical charts, and recent sounding observations. The dataset was used to reconstruct the morphological evolution of the estuary over the past 500 years. The centennial-scale morphodynamic trends show that the system responded to land reclamation by subtidal infilling and evolved from a multichannel system separated by shoals to a single channel system flanked by fringing flats. The long-term geometric changes show that the main system-scale morphodynamic adaptation is controlled by the effects of land reclamation. The present-day evolution is additionally influenced by the effects of 20th-century dredging works.A process-based morphodynamic model (Delft3D-FM), forced with a synthetic spring-neap tidal cycle, was used to investigate the Ems estuary channel evolution in response to historical land reclamations. Simulation results showcase the transformation from an initially flat-bed bathymetry to a system with multiple channels and tidal flats when historic storm surge basins provide extensive intertidal areas. Simulations in which these former storm surge basins are reclaimed result in a single-channel system, confirming the influence of land reclamations on the observed evolution. The results of this study emphasize that, contrary to what is generally assumed, pre-dredging estuarine morphologies are often far from pristine. Ongoing research focuses on quantifying the interplay between natural and human-driven factors in century-scale channel evolution.Environmental Fluid Mechanic

Observations of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms on the Dutch lower shoreface

The lower shoreface, with water depths between about 8 and 20 m, forms the transition between the inner shelf and upper shoreface. Knowledge of the lower shoreface is essential, as it is – in many cases – the sediment source for the upper shoreface and beach. This paper presents new data of near-bed orbital velocities and small-scale bedforms at various depths and locations on the Dutch lower shoreface. Near-bed orbital velocities were beyond 1 m/s during high-energetic wave conditions. They increase with wave height and decrease with water depth, and can be reasonably well described by linear wave theory. Ripple heights range between 0.01−0.03 m and ripple lengths between 0.08−0.20 m. Ripple dimensions are controlled by wave mobility, with lower and shorter ripples for higher waves, and not so much by the currents. The Van Rijn (2007) formula generally overpredicts the ripple heights, and the variation with tidal currents in time. The measurements clearly indicate significant sediment mobility at the lower shoreface under higher wave events. It is yet unclear what this means for the net sand transport. This will depend on the subtle timing of sediment suspension, wave-mean currents and near-bed orbital velocities. It requires detailed modeling to determine lower shoreface net transport rates, and to unravel the controlling sand transport mechanisms

From ripples to large-scale sand transport : The effects of bedform-related roughness on hydrodynamics and sediment transport patterns in delft3d

Bedform-related roughness affects both water movement and sediment transport, so it is important that it is represented correctly in numerical morphodynamic models. The main objective of the present study is to quantify for the first time the importance of ripple-and megaripple-related roughness for modelled hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the wave-and tide-dominated Ameland ebb-tidal delta in the north of the Netherlands. To do so, a sensitivity analysis was performed, in which several types of bedform-related roughness predictors were evaluated using a Delft3D model. Also, modelled ripple roughness was compared to data of ripple heights observed in a six-week field campaign on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta. The present study improves our understanding of how choices in model set-up influence model results. By comparing the results of the model scenarios, it was found that the ripple and megaripple-related roughness affect the depth-averaged current velocity, mainly over the shallow areas of the delta. The small-scale ripples are also important for the suspended load sediment transport, both indirectly through the affected flow and directly. While the current magnitude changes by 10–20% through changes in bedform roughness, the sediment transport magnitude changes by more than 100%.</p

The lower shoreface of the Dutch coast – An overview

The lower shoreface, defined here as between about 8 and 20 m water depth, forms the transition between the inner shelf and upper shoreface. Knowledge of lower shoreface hydro- and morphodynamics is essential for coastal management and maintenance. The shoreface of the Dutch coast is a complex area. It is partly determined by its evolution in the past, whereas present-day processes are influencing or even changing it. The present situation and large-scale anthropogenic supply of sediment will determine its future development. The shoreface morphology varies along the Dutch coast, depending on the coastal slope and superposition of ridges (central Holland coast) and ebb-tidal deltas (Delta area, Wadden Sea). The architecture of the shoreface-connected ridges off the central Holland coast indicates that they are still active today. The development of most ebb-tidal deltas along the Dutch coast is largely influenced by interventions in the tidal inlets and tidal basins. The Kustgenese 2.0 Lower Shoreface project comprised both field data collection in 2017 and 2018 and numerical modelling. Field data was collected in study areas at Ameland Inlet, Terschelling and Noordwijk. Sediment cores and multibeam sonar surveys provided information on the Holocene deposits, geomorphology and sediments. Instrumented frames placed at the seabed collected a wealth of process data. The variation in shoreface composition and morphology is larger than anticipated previously. In general, the lower part of the shoreface consists of older Holocene deposits overlain by an active sand layer that responds to variations in tidal, wave and wind conditions. The deposits at the lower shoreface of Terschelling were comparable to the ebb-delta channel deposits at the ebb-delta front at Ameland Inlet. At Noordwijk, deposits of the Late-Holocene prograded barrier shoreface overlie those of back-barrier tidal channels and river channels. The large-scale morphology of the lower shoreface seems rather stable. Decadal time series show an erosional trend. Small-scale bedforms can change over an interval of days to weeks. The multibeam surveys revealed unexpected details such as geology-based shoreface irregularities between −12m and −18m that probably act as conduits for downslope currents and sand transport. After a high-energy wave event, more erosional features were discovered that suggest seaward sand transport. Measured orbital velocities at the seabed at 14–16 m depth reached 1.5 m per second under high-wave events. This caused high sediment mobility under sheet-flow conditions with abundant sediment suspension. It is not clear what this means for the net sand transport at the lower shoreface. The modelled alongshore-directed sand transport is much larger than the cross-shore transport. The largest transports at the 20m depth contour occurs along the northern part of the Holland coast. Here, transport is parallel to the coast or directed to deeper water. Transports at 20 m depth along the other parts of the coast are directed to shallower water. The modelled total landward sand transport over the −20m contour is c. 4 million m3 per year and c. 7 million m3 per year over the −16m contour. This suggests a yearly erosion of c. 4 million m3 in-between, in case of no alongshore transport gradients. The results of the sand transport calculations imply a net landward sediment transfer that needs to be further tested against the morphological changes in the shoreface

Modelling of annual sand transports at the Dutch lower shoreface

Dutch coastal policy aims for a safe, economically strong and attractive coast. This is achieved by maintaining the part of the coast that support these functions; the coastal foundation. The coastal foundation is maintained by means of sand nourishments. Up to now, it has been assumed that net transports across the coastal foundation's offshore boundary at the 20 m depth contour are negligibly small. In the framework of the Coastal Genesis 2.0 program we investigated sand transports across this boundary and across other depth contours at the lower shoreface. This paper presents a computationally efficient approach to compute the annual sand transport rates at the Dutch lower shoreface. It is based on the 3D Dutch Continental Shelf Model with Flexible Mesh (3D DCSM-FM), a wave transformation tool and a 1DV sand transport module. We validate the hydrodynamic input against field measurements and present flow, wave and sand transport computations for the years 2013–2017. Our computations show that the net annual sand transport rates along the Dutch coast are determined by peak tidal velocities (and asymmetry thereof), density driven residual flows, wind driven residual flows and waves. The annual mean alongshore transports vary along the continuous 20 m depth contour. The computed total cross-shore transports are onshore directed over the continuous 20 m, 18 m and 16 m depth contours and increase with decreasing water depth. The effect of density difference and wind on the 3D structure of the flow and on the sand transports cannot be neglected along the Dutch lower shoreface. Our computations show that excluding the effect of density results in a significant decrease of the onshore directed transports. Also switching off wind largely counteracts this effect. The net cross-shore transport is determined by a delicate balance between gross onshore and offshore transports, where wave conditions are important. We show an example for Scheveningen where the net cross-shore transport is onshore directed when including all wave conditions but would be offshore directed when excluding waves higher than 3.5 m. In contrast, at Callantsoog the highest waves contribute more to the offshore directed transports. These results suggest that storm conditions play an important role in the magnitude and direction of the net annual transport rates at the lower shoreface