Issues of reconstruction the clothes based on results of archaeological textile research

Methodical issues of reconstruction medieval clothes on the basement of researches in textile from archaeological sites of Golden Horde, Rus’ etc are analyzed in the article. Historic reenactment is actively developed nowadays in our country and all over the world. This is the direct extension of experimental archaeology, but beyond academic science. Information for reenactment is generally provided by scientific articles and the analysis of such information is of great importance. The author believes that there is a need to evaluate the authenticity of reenactments offered by scientists. The article deals with the reconstruction of excavated artifacts with due regard for the traditional techniques of manufacture. The author analyses some published reconstructions of clothes and assesses their accuracy pointing out typical errors

Gold-metallic textile and gold-silver lace in women’s headwear of the XVIII century: results of research in the archaeological textile from Nizhniy Novgorod

The article deals with research results of women’s headwear, which was discovered during archaeological excavations the necropolis at Verhneposadskaya St. Nicholas Church in Nizhny Novgorod. The structure of the textile and lace, the headwear cutting, the location of lace, and the time of its creation have been determined in the course of study. Most attention has been given to the gold-metallic threads. Technological classification of goldmetallic archaeological threads from different historical periods is considered in the article. The headwear was made of gold brocade of tinsel thread. It can be attributed to the mid or low value for the price. At the same time the good quality threads were used in the silver lace. According to the analysis of types and kinds of women’s headgear in Western fashion the time of creation a cap under study is determined as the middle or second half of the XVIII century. Dating is supported by results of the lace research. It is a typical XVIII century fan-shaped agramant named «vilyushka». Overall research results became a possible reconstruction of headdress. It is a small cap decorated with metallic lace along a bottom edge and the axis of symmetry of the forehead to the nape of the neck

http://archaeologie.pro/en/archive/8/141/

The article summarizes primary results of technological analysis of textile fragments (45 items) from the Mari 9th-10th-century burials located at the Rusenikha and Nizhnyaja Strelka burial ground sites in the Vetluga-Vyatka interfluve area. Six textile groups have been singled out: 1) woolen fabric of plain weave; 2) woolen fabrics of twill weave; 3) plain weave cloths from plant fibers; 4) silk fabrics; 5) cords and cord tassels from woolen yarn; 6) fragments of felt. They are remains of garments, mats and fabrics used for wrapping funerary gifts. An attempt to reconstruct the cut of individual parts of the garments has been made by the authors

Restoration and research of the archaeological fabric from burial of the bulgarian woman of the Golden Horde period (the end of the XIV century)

The results of technological research of silk fabrics from the noble-born woman grave from Bolgar, which was made in the period of the Golden Horde are represented in the article. The burial has been found in the ruins of the mausoleum, which is dated from the end of the XIV century. The deviation from the Islamic traditions is regarded as peculiarity of this burial. There were found clothes from silk, which was decorated by golden threads and the temple rings. The object of study is a well-preserved complex headdress, which includes several textile layers, such kinds of the silk products of various kinds: shawls, scarves, veilings. That sort of headdress has analogues in ethnographic materials in Central Asia. Microscopy has been used to determine the species composition of the fabrics: there were considered the structure of textile weaves, technology for manufacturing threads, in polychrome fabrics - colour selection of the threads. The samples of medieval fabrics, such as lance, taffeta, summit and others have been identified. During the restoration of the veiling the method of stabilizing the object has been used, which combines the strengthening of the gold threads and plasticization of the archaeological fabrics. Golden embroidery pattern has been also recovered. The enhanced diversity indicates on developed trading system with various sources of imports - from China, Central Asia, Egypt