Effects of dot-type adhesive and yarn float on shear stiffness of laminated fabric with interlining

A shear model for laminated fabrics bonded with dot-type adhesive interlining was proposed. The effect of fixing two or more interlacing points by adhesive on the shear stiffness of laminated fabric was taken into account. Using the proposed model, a prediction method for shear stiffness of laminated fabrics was proposed and verified experimentally. The increasing ratio (IR) of the shear stiffness of face fabric due to bonding interlining was defined as the ratio of difference between shear stiffness of laminated fabrics and pressed adhesive interlining, and the initial shear stiffness of face fabric. The relationships among the ratio of fixed interlacing points, IR and adhesive mass were investigated. It is clear that IR is affected by the adhesive fixing of adjacent floating yarns in addition to the fixing of interlacing points. The experimentally obtained IR for a face fabric shows a linear relation with adhesive mass. Then, a regression equation for IR was formulated as a function of the mass of the adhesive agent using a small number of interlinings. It was possible to predict shear stiffness of other laminated fabrics with the regression equation and adhesive mass. Furthermore, the shear stiffness values of laminated fabrics were predicted more precisely by dividing the regression area according to the mass of adhesive applied during interlining.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 86(5):480-492 (2016)journal articl

A new thermocouple technique for the precise measurement of in-plane capillary water flow within fabrics

A new method was proposed for the measurement of in-plane capillary water flow within fabrics automatically. The method was based on the use of thermocouples to measure temperature changes as the fabric absorbed water. The wicking length of three different woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics in the warp, weft and 45 degrees bias directions was measured using this technique. The wicking length was found to have a linear relationship with the square root of time, in agreement with the Washburn equation. Comparing the results with the data acquired using the horizontal Byreck method, the thermocouple technique was found to be suitable for the precise measurement of in-plane capillary water flow through fabrics automatically. Moreover, based on this method, the feasibility of estimating the water contents of fabrics from temperature differences generated during the flow process was also investigated. We found that it was possible to estimate the water content of a fabric, provided the moisture level is below the critical water content at equilibrium. This can be used to estimate the water content of fabric when it is worn.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 84(5):513-526 (2014)journal articl

Effects of hydrophobic yarns on liquid migration in woven fabrics

Liquid migration in woven fabrics was investigated by measuring the wicking coefficients of hydrophilic cotton and hydrophobic PVDF (polyvinylidene fluoride) monofilament fabrics and some other fabrics. The coefficients of fabrics with cotton warp yarns were essentially equal along the weft direction but differed along the warp because of variations in the warp yarn crimps. Then factors affecting the liquid migration along the weft direction were investigated, especially the effect of hydrophobic weft yarns, by using three different warp weave densities for fabrics with both cotton and PVDF weft yarns. The results showed that in the warp direction, liquid moved along longitudinal yarns and migrated to hydrophilic but not hydrophobic transverse yarns. In the weft direction, similar results were obtained for fabrics with cotton weft yarns. Fabrics with PVDF weft yarns, however, showed no migration through the longitudinal yarns, although liquid did move along the transverse direction of connected cotton warp yarns. The largest wicking coefficient was associated with the highest warp weave density. Liquid did not move through transverse yarns separated from one another. It is apparent that liquids can migrate along transverse, adjacent, in-contact hydrophilic yarns of fabrics incorporating longitudinal hydrophobic yarns.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 85(5):479-486 (2015)journal articl

Bending rigidity of laminated fabric taking into account the neutral axes of components

The bending rigidity of laminated fabric was investigated considering the positions of the neutral axes in bending for components in addition to the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components. Theoretically derived equations were proposed to obtain the position of the neutral axis and to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric. Eight face fabrics, ten adhesive interlinings and eighty laminated fabrics of those combinations were used for experimental samples. Tensile properties, bending rigidities and thicknesses of samples were measured and used to investigate the validity of the theory. The positions of the neutral axes for the face fabrics were obtained and they were not close to the centroid of the fabric. The calculated bending rigidities of laminated fabrics using the obtained position of neutral axes were more agreed with the experimental ones than the results by the method without considering the position of neutral axis. Therefore, it was found that the bending rigidity of laminated fabric can be predicted more precisely considering the position of neutral axis.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 83(2):160-170 (2013)journal articl

Prediction of creep behavior of laminated woven fabric with adhesive interlining under low stress in the bias direction

The effect of adhesive interlining on the creep behavior of a woven fabric in the bias direction was investigated. Three-element viscoelastic models were used to approximate the creep behavior of a face fabric and adhesive interlining. The creep model of a laminated fabric comprised a six-element model in which two three-element models are connected in parallel with the three-element model. Creep tests were carried out using face fabrics, adhesive interlinings, and their laminated fabrics without and with bonding adhesive interlining by hanging samples in the 45 degrees bias direction under their own weight for 7 days. Creep strains of face fabrics bonded with adhesive interlining were found to be weaker than those of the face fabrics. The creep behavior for the face and interlining fabrics could be approximated using the three-element viscoelastic model with appropriate parameters. The experimental creep behavior of a laminated fabric without bonding was similar to the theoretical behavior. However, the experimental creep of laminated fabrics with bonding interlining was less than the calculated creep, owing to the increase in stiffness due to the adhesive. By revising the six-element model with the strains just after hanging and for 2 days, it was possible to predict the creep strain over 7 days.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 87(3):285-295 (2017)journal articl

Verification of prediction for bending rigidity of woven fabric laminated with interlining by adhesive bonding

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by the KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses were reduced compared to those before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn't change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 81(6):598-607 (2011)journal articl

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated weft knitted fabric with adhesive interlining

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated weft knitted fabric using three prediction methods and to determine their suitability for predicting. The methods are as follows: Method 1: the laminate theory using bending rigidities and thicknesses of components, Method 2: an equation derived from the laminate theory taken into account the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components, Method 3: an equation in consideration of the position of the neutral axis in bending on a face fabric. Six weft knitted fabrics and ten adhesive interlinings, sixty laminated composites with those combinations were used. Tensile properties and bending rigidities, thicknesses of samples were measured. The other necessary parameters for the prediction were obtained by additional experiments and calculation. It was found that the results by Method 3 showed the closest agreements with experimental ones. It is due to the relative positions of the neutral axes for all knitted fabric samples are not in the centroid. It became clear that the position must be taken into account for calculating bending rigidities of laminated knitted fabric with adhesive interlining.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 83(9):937-946 (2013)journal articl

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated fabric with adhesive interlining by a laminate model considering tensile and in-plane compressive moduli

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining considered tensile and in-plane compressive moduli. The predicting method considering those moduli was proposed by theoretical derivation based on laminate model. Tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of neutral surface for face fabric and adhesive interlining respectively before laminating and modulus for bending rigidity were considered independently. The calculating equation for in-plane compressive modulus was proposed from the relationship between bending rigidities and tensile properties. The proposed predicting method was verified experimentally. Bending rigidities, tensile properties and thicknesses of adhesive interlinings, face fabrics and laminated fabrics with adhesive interlinings were measured by KES-FB system. The in-plane compressive moduli of adhesive interlinings were calculated by the proposed equation with the results of tensile properties for face fabrics. With the results of tensile and in-plane compressive moduli, the bending rigidities of laminated fabric with adhesive interlinings were calculated. The predicted bending rigidities considered with measured tensile properties and calculated in-plane compressive moduli were precisely closer to experimental results than the ones of the laminated model from our previous study. Therefore, this model gives a new way to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 82(4):385-399 (2012)journal articl

Quantifying the appearance of jackets with adhesive interlinings

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively evaluate the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity. Design/methodology/approach - Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waistline. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis. Findings - The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of the waist are important criteria in the assessment of jacket appearance. The smoothness value for the front body and the constriction value of the waist partially agreed with the normal scores of sensory test results. Sensory evaluation values for the entire jacket appearance were estimated employing multiple regression analysis with the constriction and smoothness values. The values of jacket appearance estimated using multiple regression analysis were in good agreement with the sensory test results. Originality/value - Criteria and characteristics to be used in the assessment of the appearance of a jacket with adhesive interlining were clarified. Employing the proposed methodology, it is possible to predict jacket appearance for different adhesive interlinings, quantitatively.ArticleINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY. 28(1):18-35 (2016)journal articl

Three-dimensional garment-size change modeled considering vertical proportions

ArticleINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY. 29(1):84-95 (2017)journal articl