Study on prediction for bending rigidity of laminated fabrics

信州大学博士（工学）学位論文・平成25年3月20日授与（甲第577号）・Kim KyoungOkThesisKim KyoungOk. Study on prediction for bending rigidity of laminated fabrics. 信州大学, 2013, 101p, 博士論文doctoral thesi

Effects of dot-type adhesive and yarn float on shear stiffness of laminated fabric with interlining

A shear model for laminated fabrics bonded with dot-type adhesive interlining was proposed. The effect of fixing two or more interlacing points by adhesive on the shear stiffness of laminated fabric was taken into account. Using the proposed model, a prediction method for shear stiffness of laminated fabrics was proposed and verified experimentally. The increasing ratio (IR) of the shear stiffness of face fabric due to bonding interlining was defined as the ratio of difference between shear stiffness of laminated fabrics and pressed adhesive interlining, and the initial shear stiffness of face fabric. The relationships among the ratio of fixed interlacing points, IR and adhesive mass were investigated. It is clear that IR is affected by the adhesive fixing of adjacent floating yarns in addition to the fixing of interlacing points. The experimentally obtained IR for a face fabric shows a linear relation with adhesive mass. Then, a regression equation for IR was formulated as a function of the mass of the adhesive agent using a small number of interlinings. It was possible to predict shear stiffness of other laminated fabrics with the regression equation and adhesive mass. Furthermore, the shear stiffness values of laminated fabrics were predicted more precisely by dividing the regression area according to the mass of adhesive applied during interlining.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 86(5):480-492 (2016)journal articl

EFFECTS OF COMBINATIONS OF PATTERNMAKING METHODS AND DRESS FORMS ON GARMENT APPEARANCE

We investigated the effects of the combinations of patternmaking methods and dress forms on the appearance of a garment. Six upper garments were made using three patternmaking methods used in France, Italy, and Japan, and two dress forms made in Japan and France. The patterns and the appearances of the garments were compared using geometrical measurements. Sensory evaluations of the differences in garment appearance and fit on each dress form were also carried out. In the patterns, the positions of bust and waist darts were different. The waist dart length, bust dart length, and positions of the bust top were different depending on the patternmaking method, even when the same dress form was used. This was a result of differences in the measurements used and the calculation methods employed for other dimensions. This was because the ideal body shape was different for each patternmaking method. Even for garments produced for the same dress form, the appearances of the shoulder, bust, and waist from the front, side, and back views were different depending on the patternmaking method. As a result of the sensory evaluation, it was also found that the bust and waist shapes of the garments were different depending on the combination of patternmaking method and dress form. Therefore, to obtain a garment with better appearance, it is necessary to understand the effects of the combinations of patternmaking methods and body shapes.ArticleAUTEX RESEARCH JOURNAL.17(3):277-286(2017)journal articl

Verification of prediction for bending rigidity of woven fabric laminated with interlining by adhesive bonding

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by the KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses were reduced compared to those before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn't change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 81(6):598-607 (2011)journal articl

Effect of Patternmaker’s Proficiency On the Creation of Clothing

The effect of the patternmaker’s proficiency on the creation of clothing was investigated by the observation of the patternmaking process for clothing that satisfies the designer. We asked Japanese and French patternmakers to make a clothing pattern for the same design. The reasons for the differences in resultant clothing patterns and toiles made by the two patternmakers are discussed. Although the patternmaking processes used by the proficient patternmakers were similar, the resultant patterns were different owing to different recognition of the design. In particular, the shape and size of the collar that the designer emphasized in the illustration were different in the resultant patterns. Differences in patternmaking originated from differences in the patternmakers′ levels of expertise in terms of education, experience, and proficiency. However, the designer was satisfied with both patterns.ArticleAUTEX RESEARCH JOURNAL.17(2):120-128(2017)journal articl

Quantifying the appearance of jackets with adhesive interlinings

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively evaluate the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity. Design/methodology/approach - Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waistline. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis. Findings - The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of the waist are important criteria in the assessment of jacket appearance. The smoothness value for the front body and the constriction value of the waist partially agreed with the normal scores of sensory test results. Sensory evaluation values for the entire jacket appearance were estimated employing multiple regression analysis with the constriction and smoothness values. The values of jacket appearance estimated using multiple regression analysis were in good agreement with the sensory test results. Originality/value - Criteria and characteristics to be used in the assessment of the appearance of a jacket with adhesive interlining were clarified. Employing the proposed methodology, it is possible to predict jacket appearance for different adhesive interlinings, quantitatively.ArticleINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY. 28(1):18-35 (2016)journal articl

Measurements and prediction of fabric surface fitting ability under low tension

ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. (2017). doi:10.1177/0040517517700201journal articl

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated weft knitted fabric with adhesive interlining

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated weft knitted fabric using three prediction methods and to determine their suitability for predicting. The methods are as follows: Method 1: the laminate theory using bending rigidities and thicknesses of components, Method 2: an equation derived from the laminate theory taken into account the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components, Method 3: an equation in consideration of the position of the neutral axis in bending on a face fabric. Six weft knitted fabrics and ten adhesive interlinings, sixty laminated composites with those combinations were used. Tensile properties and bending rigidities, thicknesses of samples were measured. The other necessary parameters for the prediction were obtained by additional experiments and calculation. It was found that the results by Method 3 showed the closest agreements with experimental ones. It is due to the relative positions of the neutral axes for all knitted fabric samples are not in the centroid. It became clear that the position must be taken into account for calculating bending rigidities of laminated knitted fabric with adhesive interlining.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 83(9):937-946 (2013)journal articl

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated fabric with adhesive interlining by a laminate model considering tensile and in-plane compressive moduli

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining considered tensile and in-plane compressive moduli. The predicting method considering those moduli was proposed by theoretical derivation based on laminate model. Tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of neutral surface for face fabric and adhesive interlining respectively before laminating and modulus for bending rigidity were considered independently. The calculating equation for in-plane compressive modulus was proposed from the relationship between bending rigidities and tensile properties. The proposed predicting method was verified experimentally. Bending rigidities, tensile properties and thicknesses of adhesive interlinings, face fabrics and laminated fabrics with adhesive interlinings were measured by KES-FB system. The in-plane compressive moduli of adhesive interlinings were calculated by the proposed equation with the results of tensile properties for face fabrics. With the results of tensile and in-plane compressive moduli, the bending rigidities of laminated fabric with adhesive interlinings were calculated. The predicted bending rigidities considered with measured tensile properties and calculated in-plane compressive moduli were precisely closer to experimental results than the ones of the laminated model from our previous study. Therefore, this model gives a new way to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 82(4):385-399 (2012)journal articl

Bending rigidity of laminated fabric taking into account the neutral axes of components

The bending rigidity of laminated fabric was investigated considering the positions of the neutral axes in bending for components in addition to the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components. Theoretically derived equations were proposed to obtain the position of the neutral axis and to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric. Eight face fabrics, ten adhesive interlinings and eighty laminated fabrics of those combinations were used for experimental samples. Tensile properties, bending rigidities and thicknesses of samples were measured and used to investigate the validity of the theory. The positions of the neutral axes for the face fabrics were obtained and they were not close to the centroid of the fabric. The calculated bending rigidities of laminated fabrics using the obtained position of neutral axes were more agreed with the experimental ones than the results by the method without considering the position of neutral axis. Therefore, it was found that the bending rigidity of laminated fabric can be predicted more precisely considering the position of neutral axis.ArticleTEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 83(2):160-170 (2013)journal articl