Rayon and its impact on the fashion industry at its introduction, 1910-1924

Rayon was and continues to be an important fiber to the textile and fashion industry. Prior to rayon\u27s invention, only natural fibers such as cotton, silk, flax, and wool were available for clothing and home furnishings. Rayon, invented in 1846, began to be manufactured in the United States in 1911. Called artificial silk until 1924 when the name rayon was coined, rayon was a less expensive alternative to silk clothing and accessories. This paper focused on the time period of 1910-1924. The start date 1910 was selected because rayon production in the United States started in 1911. The year 1924 was chosen as a stop date for this project because acetate was invented in 1924 making rayon no longer the only manufactured fiber. This topic was important to study because little to no research had been done to address how rayon was introduced to consumers and to assess its impact on the fashion world. Seven research questions guided the research. These questions were: What was the early history of rayon production and introduction to the public? What names did manufacturers use when selling rayon? What type of products featured rayon? How were the above products promoted to the public? What were the stated advantages of rayon during this time period? What were the stated disadvantages of rayon during this time period? Why was rayon perceived as inferior to silk? This study utilized a grounded theory and content analysis to analyze data collected from the retailers\u27 newspaper Women\u27s Wear, the woman\u27s fashion magazine Harper\u27s Bazar, and the woman\u27s home magazine Good Housekeeping. Manufacturers and the industry used a variety of names to describe rayon which seemingly caused confusion for the consumer. The terms artificial silk, art silk, fiber (fibre) silk, fiber (fibre), chemical silk, manufactured silk, scientific silk, rayonner, and rayon silk were all used to describe one type of fabric. The majority of products made of rayon were hosiery; along with sweaters, draperies and curtains, embroidery and trim, bed spreads, dresses, scarves, blouses, women\u27s suits, hats, and socks. During the time period of 1910-1924, many advantages and disadvantages were apparent. The major advantage of rayon was its luster; the second major advantage was cost. Rayon was lower in cost than silk. Other advantages of rayon included its ability to cover and it wore well as dress trimmings and embroidery. In spite of these advantages, there were many disadvantages. Rayon was susceptible to heat and moisture, only one-eighth as strong as silk, and weaker when wet. Women who purchased rayon did not know how to properly care for the fiber. Rayon fibers were coarser than silk which produced a coarser weave, had poor elasticity, poor abrasion resistance, poor dye affinity, and lacked the necessary qualities to produce a twistable yarn. Rayon was seen as inferior to silk for four main reasons. First, was the industry\u27s portrayal of the fiber rayon. Terms such as real and true silk made consumers think that silk was the optimal choice, but that they might have to settle for rayon, the imposter. Cost perceptions was the second major reason rayon that was seen as inferior. The majority of rayon products were priced less expensively than silk products. For many consumers, cheaper prices equaled lower quality. Third was confusion about the terminology used. A variety of terms were used to describe rayon: artificial silk, art silk, fiber (fibre) silk, fiber (fibre), chemical silk, scientific silk, rayonner, wood silk, and rayon silk. With this list of terms, consumers would not necessarily know what specific product they purchased or the correct fiber content. The fourth, and final reason, was poor information provided about rayon to the consumer

The new costumes of odd sizes: Plus sized women\u27s fashions, 1910-1924

The purpose of this research was to examine the fashionable styles available to women in the 1910s and 1920s, the advice, both prescriptive and proscriptive, given to plus sized women in the 1910 and the 1920s, and the apparel-related patents issued during the 1910s to 1929 to aid the plus sized woman. Primary sources analyzed included The New York Times, Vogue, Good Housekeeping, and utility patents. They provided multiple viewpoints regarding the plus sized woman during this period. The percentage of larger women grew during the early twentieth century, and it was estimated that by 1916 there were over 13 million women, or 12.7% of the total population in the United States was considered overweight or stout. The term stout indicated a figure (often of matronly appearance), with generous bust, back and hip curves that decidedly did not fit in with fashion\u27s demands for the slim figure. Generally, women ten to fifteen percent above the average weight were considered overweight. In 1924, The New York Times stated that stout sizes ranged from 38.5 to 52.5 bust; a 48 in ordinary or average sizes was comparable to a size 42 to 44 in plus sized sizing. This research demonstrated that plus sized women were able to purchase ready-to-wear clothing in the years 1910 to 1929. The ready-to-wear industry did exist for plus sized women in the 1910s though it was just in its infancy. By the latter half of the 1910s, the ready-to-wear clothing industry had expanded for the plus sized woman. Plus sized woman strayed away from dressmakers clothing because of the satisfaction and convenience of ready-to-wear clothing. By the 1920s, plus sized women were able to purchase ready-to-wear clothing specially designed for their size. More clothing manufactures saw the potential and purchasing power of the plus sized woman

“The New Costumes of Odd Sizes” Plus-Sized Women’s Fashions, 1920–1929

By 1916 over 13 million women or 12.7% of the total U.S. population was considered overweight or “stout.” In the 1920s, the term “stout.” indicated an (often matronly appearance) with generous bust, back and hip curves that did not fit with fashion s demands of the ideal stylish figure. Research related to ready-to-wear fashions for plus sized women in the 20th century is almost non-existent. The purpose of this study was to explore available ready-to-wear fashions for the plus sized woman during the years 1920-1929. To explore this topic, a historical method approach was utilized using primary sources that included The New York Times, Vogue, and Good Housekeeping. The results of this study identified prescriptive and proscriptive advice regarding appropriate clothing styles and merchandising trends marketed to plus sized women

The Introduction and Promotion of Rayon, 1910-1924

The purpose of this project was to determine the early history of rayon\u27s introduction and promotion to the public. The researchers utilized a grounded theory and content analysis approach to analyze data collected from trade, fashion, and home magazines

Pharmacology of recombinant γ-aminobutyric acidA receptors rendered diazepam-insensitive by point-mutated α-subunits

AbstractAmino acids in the α- and γ-subunits contribute to the benzodiazepine binding site of GABAA-receptors. We show that the mutation of a conserved histidine residue in the N-terminal extracellular segment (α1H101R, α2H101R, α3H126R, and α5H105R) results not only in diazepam-insensitivity of the respective αxβ2,3γ2-receptors but also in an increased potentiation of the GABA-induced currents by the partial agonist bretazenil. Furthermore, Ro 15-4513, an inverse agonist at wild-type receptors, acts as an agonist at all mutant receptors. This conserved molecular switch can be exploited to identify the pharmacological significance of specific GABAA-receptor subtypes in vivo

A Sesquicentennial Exhibition of Historic Garments and Textile Treasures

This presentation emphasizes the decisions regarding the selection of garments to best highlight the costume collection and gallery space and the ways in which the curators worked with the university community to promote the exhibition