A Sustainable Fashion Business Opportunity? Exploring Clothing Redesign with the Theory of Planned Behavior

University of Minnesota Ph.D. dissertation. December 2015. Major: Design. Advisors: Marilyn DeLong, Juanjuan Wu. 1 computer file (PDF); xi, 242 pages.In the United States, more than half of post-consumer used clothing has been discarded into landfills (Chen & Burns, 2006). Redesigning used clothing could be a sustainable alternative to disposal. Through in-depth interviews, visual analysis of redesigned clothing, and questionnaires, redesign behavior was explored. Thirty women participated in the study (mean age 43.75, 86.67% Caucasian). Participants were divided into groups based on their experience with redesign. Redesign Consumers (RC) 30% of participants, hired someone for redesign or redesigned without advanced sewing and fashion design skills. Redesign Enthusiasts (RE), 33.33% of participants, redesigned clothing for themselves, implementing advanced sewing and design skills. Redesign Professionals (RP), 36.67% of participants, had sold redesigned garments in the past. The theory of planned behavior was used as a theoretical framework for data analysis (Ajzen, 1991). Participants had a generally high level of concern for the environment, were somewhat likely feel social pressure from friends and family to behave ecologically, and engaged in several types of sustainable fashion behaviors, especially wearing used clothing. Eighty percent (n = 16) intended to keep their redesigned garments and indicated high likelihood to redesign again in the future. Participants discussed barriers to redesigning clothing, such as worry that the garment wouldn’t turn out as expected. Almost half of participants (48.28%), expected to pay less than the original retail price of the garment for redesign which could make it difficult to profit from redesign. The findings will have practical implications for entrepreneurs, who might use these results to weigh the pros and cons of starting a new redesign business

Poppin’ Tags: How Consumers Communicate Uniqueness with Vintage Clothing

Aesthetics in the 21st Century has been marked by the coexistence of many styles, with consumers often in charge of creating their own sense of personal style (Postrel, 2003). However, convergence of global trends has led to similarity across brands and price points, which makes it difficult to create an individualized appearance when shopping solely at new clothing stores. Some consumers have sought alternative sources, including thrift shops, vintage stores, clothing swaps, garage sales, do-it-yourself projects, and professionally redesigned clothing (Janigo, 2011; Reiley, 2008). The purpose of this

Changing clothes for sustainability? The how and why of clothing redesign

Redesigning used clothing – requiring deconstruction and reconstruction beyond basic repair and alteration – could be a sustainable alternative to these problems. Only a few authors have researched clothing redesign but even so have identified potential opportunities for economic and environmental gain (Janigo & Wu, in press; Young, Jirousek, & Ashdown, 2004). Our research goals were to add a longitudinal element to previous research which involved women in a collaborative redesign project in 2011 (Janigo & Wu, in press), to further understand how and why female consumers might redesign used clothing, and to identify what characteristics, if any, are shared among consumers of redesign

Grabbing Back: The Form and Meaning of the Pussy Hat

The purpose of this study was to understand motivations for participating in the Women\u27s March. We used symbolic interaction theory, specifically, the essay Appearance and the Self as a guideline to analyze the data (Stone, 1962). We also interpreted the meaning of the pussy hats as symbols through the form, viewer, and context aesthetic analysis framework (DeLong, 1998). The study used an inductive approach with observations and audio recorded interviews of the event attendants 18 and older. Authors collected data in Washington, D.C., and in St. Paul. The goals of the ethnographic process were to observe dress as a tool of nonverbal communication and to understand referent meanings of the pussy hat. Pussy hats provided salient visual communication representing women\u27s empowerment and support. The making of the hats became a form of activism, which mobilized supporters of the movement

Collaborative redesign of used clothes as a sustainable fashion solution: exploring consumer interest and experience.

University of Minnesota M.A. thesis. December 2011. Major: Design. Advisor: Juanjuan Wu. 1 computer file (PDF); vii, 123 pages, appendices A-G.Consumers’ clothing disposal decisions have lasting effects because the decomposition process of certain materials can span several decades (Fletcher, 2008; Black, 2008). Unfortunately, only 48% of post-consumer used clothing is recycled (Chen & Burns, 2006). The primary aim of this mixed methods study was to explore the viability of a service or business involving consumers in redesigning their used garments as a sustainable alternative to disposal. Through focus groups discussions and questionnaires with closed-ended items, I sought to answer who potential redesign consumers are and therefore the appropriate target market for the service. I collaborated with participants to conceptualize practical, executable redesign plans for their garments. After all redesigned garments were returned, consumers provided their feedback in focus groups and questionnaires. These suggestions may be used to develop recommendations for future redesign businesses. A total of 27 mostly Caucasian (89%) women ages 18-62 participated, and 27 corresponding garment redesigns were completed. Although not motivated by environmental concerns to modify their clothing purchase behavior, the women were comfortable with used clothing and were interested in using a redesign service in the future. Participants indicated they were mostly satisfied with their redesigned garment and will continue to wear their garments for a mean of approximately two additional years. They were willing to pay $50 to$60 for the service. Many (52%) suggested redesign could be marketed as a social experience to commemorate life events (i.e., engagement or marriage) among women, similar to a Tupperware® or Mary Kay® event

Poppin’ Tags: How Consumers Communicate Uniqueness with Vintage Clothing

Aesthetics in the 21st Century has been marked by the coexistence of many styles, with consumers often in charge of creating their own sense of personal style (Postrel, 2003). However, convergence of global trends has led to similarity across brands and price points, which makes it difficult to create an individualized appearance when shopping solely at new clothing stores. Some consumers have sought alternative sources, including thrift shops, vintage stores, clothing swaps, garage sales, do-it-yourself projects, and professionally redesigned clothing (Janigo, 2011; Reiley, 2008). The purpose of this r</p

Redesigning Fashion: An Analysis and Categorization of Women's Clothing Redesign Behavior

While many Western consumers donate used clothing to charities, most end up in landfills (Chen & Burns, 2006). Redesigning used clothing could transform textile waste into new fashion items. Research methods included in-depth interviews, visual analysis of redesigned clothing, and questionnaires. The theory of planned behavior was the chosen framework for data collection and analysis (Ajzen, 1991). The thirty female participants (mean age 43.75, 86.67% Caucasian) were divided into groups based on their experience. Redesign Consumers (RC) 30% of participants, hired someone or completed simple redesigns themselves. Redesign Enthusiasts (RE), 33.33% of participants, implemented advanced sewing and design skills to redesign for themselves. Redesign Professionals (RP), 36.67% of participants, sold garments they redesigned. Eighty percent (n = 16) intended to keep their redesigned garments and indicated high likelihood to continue redesigning. The findings may assist entrepreneurs in weighing the pros and cons of starting a new redesign business.</p

Changing clothes for sustainability? The how and why of clothing redesign

Redesigning used clothing – requiring deconstruction and reconstruction beyond basic repair and alteration – could be a sustainable alternative to these problems. Only a few authors have researched clothing redesign but even so have identified potential opportunities for economic and environmental gain (Janigo & Wu, in press; Young, Jirousek, & Ashdown, 2004). Our research goals were to add a longitudinal element to previous research which involved women in a collaborative redesign project in 2011 (Janigo & Wu, in press), to further understand how and why female consumers might redesign used clothing, and to identify what characteristics, if any, are shared among consumers of redesign.</p

Grabbing Back: The Form and Meaning of the Pussy Hat

The purpose of this study was to understand motivations for participating in the Women's March. We used symbolic interaction theory, specifically, the essay "Appearance and the Self" as a guideline to analyze the data (Stone, 1962). We also interpreted the meaning of the pussy hats as symbols through the form, viewer, and context aesthetic analysis framework (DeLong, 1998). The study used an inductive approach with observations and audio recorded interviews of the event attendants 18 and older. Authors collected data in Washington, D.C., and in St. Paul. The goals of the ethnographic process were to observe dress as a tool of nonverbal communication and to understand referent meanings of the pussy hat. Pussy hats provided salient visual communication representing women's empowerment and support. The making of the hats became a form of activism, which mobilized supporters of the movement.</p