Chemical Compounds Responsible for Skin Allergy to Complex Mixtures: How to Identify Them?

International audienceIn the cosmetics industry, various natural complex mixtures such as botanical extracts or essential oils are used. In addition to that, finished consumer products may contain a number of constituents of natural origin but many products derived from organic synthesis too. Hence, finding skin sensitizers within this myriad of chemicals is an arduous task. Nowadays, methods validated by European dedicated instances to evaluate the allergenicity of chemicals are incapable to predict the sensitization potential of complex mixtures, even if research has progressed a lot in this direction recently. Accordingly and in this context, to identify precisely the culprit(s) responsible for skin sensitization to the mixtures is essential for risk assessment. This review is a short summary of approaches that allow identifying allergens in chemical mixtures such as bioassay-guided chemical fractionation, structure-activity relationships studies and recent methods allowing identification of reactive intermediates in natural extracts exposed to air oxidation. It is shown that a big progress has been accomplished, even if the identification of sensitizers in complex mixtures continues to be puzzling

Identification of Allergens in Complex Mixtures and Products

Identifying contact allergens among the myriad of chemicals used in commercial products is an extremely arduous task. This is even more difficult in the case of components of complex mixtures such as natural extracts and essential oils. Today, non-animal alternative methods validated to assess the sensitizing potential of chemicals are, overall, unable to completely predict the skin sensitization potential of these complex mixtures of chemicals. Moreover, toxicological profiles are very difficult to extrapolate from the mere sum of the profiles of the individual constituents as required today. In this context, hazard identification remains still one of the best solutions for risk assessment. This chapter presents a brief overview of methods allowing the identification of allergens in complicated chemical mixtures, going from bioassay-guided fractionation and combination with structure-activity relationships studies, to more recent new techniques developed to trap and identify reactive intermediates in natural extracts during air oxidation. Practical applications are exposed such as the case of oak moss absolute. Also, the assessment of the sensitization potential of tea tree oil is a typical example of the challenges that toxicologists encounter in the safety evaluation of essential oils. Methods based on chemical reactivity and fluorescence trapping, basically studying the oil after aging and air oxidation, are discussed. Hence, a great deal of progress has been accomplished during the last years for the identification of chemicals culprit of the sensitizing potential of very complex chemical mixtures. That being said, the identification of allergens in complex mixtures and products is still a challenging puzzle

Formation of free radicals from the skin sensitizer ascaridole in a 3D epidermis model and activation of the innate immune response.

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Formation of free radicals from the skin sensitizer ascaridole in a 3D epidermis model and activation of the innate immune response. IUTOX (International Union of Toxicology) 15th International Congress of Toxicology. Honolulu, Hawaii, États-Unis (15-18 juillet 2019).

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