39 research outputs found
Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed wave in shallow water
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is
studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum
and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially
sine wave can be expressed through the wave steepness, and this is important
for applications.Comment: 10 pages in Russian with English abstrac