The Role of Knowledge in Constructing the Quality of Olive Oil in Spain

The sustainability of a large proportion of Spanish olive oil-producing territories depends to a great extent on their capacity to fit into a specific model of food quality. The strategies used in the di erent territories di er with respect to their adherence to the objectifiable conception of quality, based on scientific-technical knowledge, or subjectivating conception of quality, based on tacit and practical knowledge. In this paper, we analyse the route taken by two territories with olive oil protected designation of origin (PDO) status in Spain to construct their quality model, the type of knowledge that has been applied and how knowledge processes a ect the construction of sustainable quality models. This study applies a qualitative methodology based on participative observation and semi-structured interviews with key actors of the territories. The results indicate that processes of production, reproduction and dissemination of knowledge are basic pillars for the construction of sustainable quality projects. The degree of understanding of the objectifiable and subjectivating conception of quality in olive-producing territories and the interaction between them depend on the specific characteristics of the territory, the objectives set in connection to the olive oil quality method, the importance given to the di erent types of knowledge, and its standing on the issue of territorial sustainabilit

Exceptional human longevity is associated with a specific plasma phenotype of ether lipids

A lipid profile resistant to oxidative damage is an inherent trait associated with animal lifespan. However, there is a lack of lipidomic studies on human longevity. Here we use mass spectrometry based technologies to detect and quantify 137 ether lipids to define a phenotype of healthy humans with exceptional lifespan. Ether lipids were chosen because of their antioxidant properties and ability to modulate oxidative stress. Our results demonstrate that a specific ether lipid signature can be obtained to define the centenarian state. This profile comprises higher level of alkyl forms derived from phosphatidylcholine with shorter number of carbon atoms and double bonds; and decreased content in alkenyl forms from phosphatidylethanolamine with longer chain length and higher double bonds. This compositional pattern suggests that ether lipids from centenarians are more resistant to lipid peroxidation, and that ether lipid signature expresses an optimized feature associated with exceptional human longevity. These results are in keeping with the free radical theory of aging.We acknowledge funding from the Spanish Ministry of Education and Science (ref. SAF2013–44663-R), and from the ‘Red Tematica de Investigación Cooperativa en Envejecimiento y Fragilidad’ (RETICEF) (ref. ISCIII2012-RED-43-029) to J.V.; and from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness/Institute of Health Carlos III (ref. PI14/00328), and the Autonomous Government of Catalonia, Department of Health (ref. SLT002/16/00250) and Department of Business and Knowledge (ref. 2017SGR696) to R.P. This study has been co-financed by FEDER funds from the European Union (“Una manera de hacer Europa”). I.P. was supported by a University of Lleida Predoctoral Fellowship. K.H. was supported by a Dementia Australia Research Foundation Scholarship

La «nueva cultura del aceite» como eje de transformación en los territorios olivareros andaluces

In the field of olive oil, two quality construction models currently coexist. One quality model based on the specific attributes of each territory and the traditional knowledge and other quality model based on rules and standards and on scientific-technical knowledge. The implementation of this second model implies that the different qualities of olive oil are determined, by regulation, through a sensory analysis, following organoleptic parameters. This article analyzes the transformations carried out in the olive oil territories to adapt to this model of regulated quality. Study the differential processes of appropriation of this “new olive oil culture” in different areas of Andalusia with a tradition rooted in the production of quality oil. The research has focused on three Local Olive Oil Systems of Andalusia that have a Protected Designation of Origin (Estepa y Puente Genil, Priego de Córdoba y Mon-toro-Adamuz). In the study, qualitative methodology has been applied based on fieldwork carried out during 12 months between 2015-2016. The techniques used were participant observation and semi-structured interviews with 178 key actors from the three territories. Results show that the success in the process of conversion to the “new olive oil culture” is linked to the territorialization of “expert” knowledge. It is essential that the tasting panel becomes an active actor of the territory and that the knowledge generated is accessible and feedback with the vernacular knowledge of the territory. © 2020, Asociacion de Antropologos Iberoamericanos en Red. All rights reserved.En el ámbito del aceite de oliva conviven, actualmente, dos modelos de construcción de la calidad. Un modelo de calidad que se sustenta en los atributos específicos de cada territorio y en el conocimiento tradicional, y otro modelo de calidad basado en normas, estándares y en el conocimiento científico-técnico. La implantación de este segundo modelo implica que las diferentes calidades del aceite de oliva se determinen, por normativa, a través de un análisis sensorial, siguiendo parámetros organolépticos. Este artículo analiza las transformaciones operadas en los territorios olivareros para adaptarse a este modelo de calidad «científico-técnica». Estudia los procesos diferenciales de apropiación de esa «nueva cultura del aceite» en diferentes zonas de Andalucía (España) con una arraigada tradición en la producción de aceite de oliva de calidad. La investigación se ha centrado en tres Sistemas Oleícolas Locales con Denominación de Origen Protegida (Estepa y Puente Genil, Priego de Córdoba y Montoro-Adamuz). En el estudio se ha aplicado una metodología cualitativa, basada en el trabajo de campo realizado durante 12 meses entre 2015-2016. Las técnicas utilizadas han sido la observación participante y las entrevistas semiestructuradas realizadas a 178 actores claves de los tres territorios. Los resultados obtenidos indican que el éxito en el proceso de conversión a esa «nueva cultura del aceite» está vinculado a la territorialización del conocimiento «experto». Resulta fundamental que el panel de cata pase a ser un actor activo del territorio y que se genere un conocimiento accesible que se retroalimente con el conocimiento vernáculo del territorio