A new method of evaluating the fineness and residual gum content of hemp fibres

The demand for eco-friendly apparel and technical textiles has led to a resurgence of interests in bast fibres such as hemp. The lack of fast and objective evaluation of the quality attributes of bast fibres has been a major barrier to the advancement of the bast fibre industry. One of the most important quality attributes of a fibre is its fineness. For bast fibres, the fibre fineness measurement can also reflect the degree of fibre separation during retting or degumming. The traditional method of evaluating the fineness and residual gum content of bast fibres is a very tedious process. In this paper, degummed hemp fibres have been measured for fineness on an Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA), and the results have been co-related with the residual gum content in the fibre samples. Since hemp fibres do not have a circular cross section, it is the width of the fibre that gets measured by the OFDA instrument, and this width has been used as an indication of the fibre fineness in this paper. The findings from this study suggest that the optical method can provide a fast and objective way of evaluating the fineness of hemp fibres, and that there is a good correlation between the fibre &bdquo;width‟ measurement and the residual gum content.<br /

Correlating the fineness and residual gum content of degummed hemp fibres

It is well known residual gum exists in degummed or retted hemp fibres. Gum removal results in improvement in fibre fineness and the properties of the resultant hemp yarns. However, it is not known what correlation if any exists between the residual gum content in retted hemp fibres and the fibre fineness, described in terms of fibre width in this paper. This study examined the mean width and coefficient of variation (CV) of fibre width of seventeen chemically retted hemp samples with reference to residual gum content. The mean and CV of fibre width were obtained from an Optical fibre diameter analyser (OFDA 100). The linear regression analysis results show that the mean fibre width is directly proportional to the residual gum content. A slightly weaker linear correlation also exists between the coefficient of variation of fibre width and the residual gum content. The strong linear co-relation between the mean of fibre width and the residual gum content is a significant outcome, since testing for fibre width using the OFDA is a much simpler and quicker process than testing the residual gum content. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) reinforces the OFDA findings. SEM micrographs show a flat ribbon like fibre cross-section hence the term &ldquo;fibre width&rdquo; is used instead of fibre diameter. Spectral differences in the untreated dry decorticated skin samples and chemically treated and subsequently carded samples indicate delignification. The peaks at 1370 cm&minus;1, 1325 cm&minus;1, 1733 cm&minus;1, and 1600 cm&minus;1 attributed to lignin in the untreated samples are missing from the spectra of the treated samples. The spectra of the treated samples are more amine-dominated with some of the OH character lost. <br /

Impact abrasion resistance quantification of protective motorcycle gloves

The hands are often the first contact point with the road surface in a motorcycle crash. Wearing well designed protective gloves has been proven to significantly reduce the occurrence and severity of injuries to the hand. The European Standard for motorcycle protective gloves requires testing of component materials separately and does not consider the impact of abrasive surfaces on seems. This work aimed to develop a new method of testing of fully constructed gloves as worn by a rider in impact abrasion situations. It used previously published fall mechanics to understand the areas that may undergo impact abrasion. It defines the important zones for abrasion resistance and details ideal impact/measurement geometry for measurement on a Cambridge type abrasion tester. It proposes a method for the impact abrasion resistance of the palm, knuckles, wrist, outer side of the little finger and the tops of fingers. This information may be used for the quantification of fully manufactured gloves for standard certification or use in a rating system

Cuticle modifications and dyeing property of ultrasonically scoured wool

Ultrasonics has the potential to reduce the cost and environmental impact of textile processing. This work investigates the effects of utrasonic irradiation during wool scouring on fibre surface properties and fibre dyeing rate. A range of ultrasonic frequencies were used in the scouring bath to examine the forms of fibre cuticle damage. It was shown that ultrasonically scoured wool underwent some modifications of the fibre surface structure which resulted in a higher rate of dye uptake by the fibres, when compared with the conventionally scoured wool. The lower the ultrasonic frequency the more sever was the cuticle damage to wool during scouring, hence the higher the fibre dye uptake

Comparative analysis of two selective bleaching methods on alpaca fibers

Dark brown Alpaca fiber was reduced in shade via selective bleaching with peroxide. Two selective oxidative bleaching methods were tested on alpaca top to assess their effectiveness for color removal and fiber quality properties. Color change, bundle strength, weight loss, fiber diameter, surface modification, dye-ability and dye wash fastness were assessed for both methods and compared with the original brown top. Bleach method 1 (BL-I) showed little surface modification, 5.8 % weight loss and 2.4 % strength loss. D1925 yellowness index was reduced to 74.3 from 83.1 and provided a good base for the dyeing of medium to deep shades. Bleach method 2 (BL-II) displayed considerable surface modification, 7.8 % weight loss and 18 % strength loss. BL-II also resulted in a mean diameter reduction of 1.9 micron during bleaching. Yellow-ness was reduced to 64.5 from 83.1 and provided a very good base for the dyeing of medium to deep shades. BL-I showed better exhaustion of the pre-metallised dye Lanaset Violet B than BL-II. Wash fastness for BL-II was 1 grey scale unit poorer than BL-I. BL-II showed far better color clarity at pale depths however the wash fastness of the finished product was not good enough to maintain the depth or clarity of the color. BL-I showed poorer clarity of color but exhibited better wash fastness results. <br /

Ultrasonic scouring of wool and its effects on fibre breakage during carding

Ultrasonics has shown the potential to reduce the cost and environmental impact of textile processing. This work investigates the impact of ultrasonic scouring on fibre entanglement caused during the scouring process. Levels of fibre entanglement were quantified by measuring fibre length using OFDA4000 after carding. A significant reduction in fibre entanglement after ultrasonic scouring was observed and this was due to a reduced fibre migration in the wash bath when compared with the mechanical agitation seen in conventional scouring process. Fibre cuticle scale damage resulting from the ultrasonic irradiation may also have contributed to the reduction in fibre entanglement. A reduced level of fibre entanglement from ultrasonic wool scouring leads to a reduction in fibre breakage during carding

Motorcycle clothing fabric burst failure during high speed impact with an abrasive surface

High energy is involved when a rider impacts a road surface in a crash. Rider speed, height of fall and road surface morphology all contribute to the level of initial impact energy. Impact can cause fabrics and seams of protective garments to burst rendering their protective value void. The Cambridge abrasion tester tests protective clothing with a fall height of 50mm and abrasive belt speed of 28km/hr, far below what can happen in a &ldquo;high side&rdquo; motorcycle crash at 100km/hr. This work addresses the mechanics of what occurs in the first few microseconds of an impact and provides insight into the effect that speed has on fabric burst. This work used a Cambridge impact abrasion test to evaluate two different protective motorcycle clothing fabrics (a denim and brushed fleecy fabric over a p-aramid protective liner). It measured their abrasion resistance at an abrasion speed of 28km/hr and standard impact height. It used a high speed camera to measure the impact displacement of the test head. Fabrics with high stretch were more prone to burst failure on initial impact. Fabric burst is caused by a high speed tensile stress between the fabric coupled with the abrasion surface and the inertia of the body dragging against it. Stretch fabrics are pushed into the abrasion surface for a longer period by the body before the tensile stress occurs so the coupling force is higher. If the transition to abrasion occurs early in the impact then a fabric is less likely to burst

The mechanism of needle penetration through a woven aramid fabric

Fabrics that resist needle penetration are important for the manufacture of protective gloves and clothing. Understanding the mechanism of needle penetration through a fibrous structure enables optimisation of protective fabric design. This work investigated the process of low speed penetration of a needle through a woven aramid fabric. Motion image capture of the needle enabled needle position correlation with the needle penetration force profile. The needle penetration force curve had three characteristic peaks and more than 70% of the needle tip was already exposed at maximum penetration force

Effects of bleaching and dyeing on the quality of alpaca tops and yarns

This paper reports the effects of bleaching of alpaca tops and dyeing of bleached alpaca tops/yarns on the quality of tops and yarns. A dark brown alpaca top was bleached with hydrogen peroxide. Two bleaching methods were tried for effectiveness of color removal. A portion of each bleached top was dyed after bleaching. Color parameters were examined for unbleached, bleached and bleached/dyed tops, these tops were then converted into yarns of different twist levels and counts using a worsted spinning system. Some of the bleached yarn from each bleaching method was dyed in a package dye vat to compare the difference of top dyeing versus yarn package dyeing on yarn quality. Fiber diameter, yarn strength, yarn evenness, yarn hairiness and fiber degradation were tested to examine the effects of bleaching and dyeing on these properties at top and yarn stages. A processing route for bleaching and dyeing alpaca fiber was recommended. <br /