Estimation of Wave Run-up in the Northern Indian Ocean using WAM model

River, Estuarine and Coastal Dynamic

Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address different levels of nonlinearity, time series with five different significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the effects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditional Weibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations

Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach

6 pages, 1 figure, 2 tables, 11 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.denys-dutykh.com/International audienceDispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach are studied. We take an advantage of experimental data collection of different wave types (single pulses, sinusoidal waves, bi-harmonic waves, and frequency modulated wave trains) and simulate their run-up using two models: (i) non-dispersive nonlinear shallow water theory and (ii) dispersive Boussinesq type model based on the modified Peregrine system. It is shown, that for long positive pulses, dispersive effects are not so important and nonlinear shallow water theory can be used. However, for periodic sinusoidal and bi-harmonic pulses of the same period, the dispersive effects result in significant wave transformation during its propagation, but do not have a strong impact on its maximal run-up height. Overall, for maximum wave run-up height, we could not find a preference of dispersive model against the nondispersive one, and, therefore, suggest using nonlinear shallow water model for long wave run-up height estimation

Nonlinear deformation and run-up of tsunami waves of positive polarity: numerical simulations and analytical predictions

International audienceEvaluation of wave run-up characteristics is one of the most important tasks in coastal oceanography. This knowledge is required as for planning coastal structures and protection works, as for short-term tsunami forecast and tsunami warning. The nonlinear deformation and run-up of single tsunami waves of positive polarity in the conjoined water basin, which consists of the constant depth section and a plane beach is studied numerically and analytically in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Analytically, wave propagation along the constant depth section and its run-up on a beach are considered independently without taking into account wave reflection from the toe of the bottom slope. The propagation along the bottom of constant depth is described by Riemann wave, while the wave run-up on a plane beach is calculated using rigorous analytical solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory following the Carrier-Greenspan approach. The numerical scheme employs the finite volume method and is based on the second order UNO2 reconstruction in space and the third order Runge-Kutta scheme with locally adaptive time steps. The model is validated against experimental data. Found analytically, that maximum run-up height of single waves of positive polarity on a beach of a conjoined water basin depends on the wave front steepness at the toe of the bottom slope. This dependence is general for single waves of different amplitudes and periods and can be approximated by the power fit: R max / R 0 = ( s / s 0 )^0.42. This dependence is slightly weaker than the corresponding dependence for a sine wave, proportional to the square root of the wave front steepness. The stronger dependence of a sinewave run-up on the wave front steepness is consistent with the philosophy of N-waves. Shown numerically, that all numerical curves for different wave amplitudes and periods, are parallel to the analytical one. Therefore, for estimates one can use the analytical dependence onthe wave front steepness.Voir le livre des résumés de cette conférence

Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

13 pages, 7 figures, 2 tables, 32 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.denys-dutykh.com/International audienceThe runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address different levels of nonlinearity, the time series with five different significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow also seeing the effects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 hours (~360000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditional Weibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and assessment of extreme inundations

Abstracts of The Second Eurasian RISK-2020 Conference and Symposium

This abstract book contains abstracts of the various research ideas presented at The Second Eurasian RISK-2020 Conference and Symposium.The RISK-2020 Conference and Symposium served as a perfect venue for practitioners, engineers, researchers, scientists, managers and decision-makers from all over the world to exchange ideas and technology about the latest innovation developments dealing with risk minimization