Don’t Look Back: The Paradoxical Role of Recording in the Fashion Design Process

Although there is little systematic research in academia or industry examining design processes in Fashion, anecdotal evidence, based on self- reports and observations, suggests that designers very rarely record the process of designing. Conversely, benefits and requirements of recording the design process within other domains, such as Engineering and Architecture, are well supported in the literature. This paper attempts to explore the dichotomy of recording and non-recording practice across these fields through a review of the literature, semi-structured interviews and a report on one case study in particular, drawing out further detail. Commonalities and differences are identified and new directions for research proposed

Prime beef cuts : culinary images for thinking 'men'

The paper contributes to scholarship theorising the sociality of the brand in terms of subject positions it makes possible through drawing upon the generative context of circulating discourses, in this case of masculinity, cuisine and celebrity. Specifically, it discusses masculinity as a socially constructed gender practice (Bristor and Fischer, 1993), examining materialisations of such practice in the form of visualisations of social relations as resources for 'thinking gender' or 'doing gender'. The transformative potential of the visualisations is illuminated by exploring the narrative content choreographed within a series of photographic images positioning the market appeal of a celebrity chef through the medium of a contemporary lifestyle cookery book. We consider how images of men 'doing masculinity'are not only channelled into reproducing existing gender hierarchy and compulsory heterosexuality in the service of commercial ends, but also into disrupting such enduring stereotyping through subtle reframing. We acknowledge that masculinity is already inscribed within conventionalised representations of culinary culture. In this case we consider how traces of masculinity are exploited and reinscribed through contemporary images that generate resources for rethinking masculine roles and identities, especially when viewed through the lens of stereotypically feminised pursuits such as shopping, food preparation, cooking, and the communal intimacy of food sharing. We identify unsettling tensions within the compositions, arguing that they relate to discursive spaces between the gendered positions written into the images and the popular imagination they feed off. Set against landscapes of culinary culture, we argue that the images invoke a brand of naively roughish "laddishness" or "blokishness", rendering it in domesticated form not only as benign and containable, but fashionable, pliable and, importantly, desirable. We conclude that although the images draw on stereotypical premeditated notions of a feral, boisterous and untamed heterosexual masculinity, they also set in motion gender-blending narratives

Andy Warhol: Polaroids & Portraits

Enigmatic Andy Warhol claimed he had “no real point to make” in producing art. Yet, his silkscreens, sculptures, paintings, and photographs reveal the artist’s profound interest in the way art intersected with fields like advertising, fashion, film, mass culture, and underground music. In his experimentations with photography and portraiture, Warhol was fascinated with representations of both the individual and the masses and used the Polaroid portrait to illustrate the fine lines between art and popular culture, celebrity and anonymity. [excerpt]https://cupola.gettysburg.edu/artcatalogs/1010/thumbnail.jp

A study of Filene's "This is the Life" promotion

Thesis (M.S.)--Boston Universit

Vijai Patchineelam: A Work in Process

Latin American Studie

Madame Gres – Goddess of Drape: Review of ‘Madame Gres: Couture at Work’, Musee Bourdelle, Paris 25th March – 28th August 2011

With the revived importance attached to object based research for fashion scholars and its obvious significance to fashion designers, the Madame Gres retrospective at the Musee Bourdelle in Paris, promoted an ideal opportunity to analyse her work in close detail. As fashion historian Valerie Steele (1998) commented; “Object based research provides unique insights into the historic and aesthetic development of fashion” (p.27). It allows the researcher to analyse the history, material, construction, design, and function of garments. This can be achieved through touching, feeling and by trying clothes on. The fashion scholar can gain an understanding about a garments cultural significance and its impact on fashion design and technology. The designer or pattern cutter can be inspired by the design and construction of the garment, its fabrication, colour and cut

AI-Generated Fashion Designs: Who or What Owns the Goods?

As artificial intelligence (“AI”) becomes an increasingly prevalent tool in a plethora of industries in today’s society, analyzing the potential legal implications attached to AI-generated works is becoming more popular. One of the industries impacted by AI is fashion. AI tools and devices are currently being used in the fashion industry to create fashion models, fabric designs, and clothing. An AI device’s ability to generate fashion designs raises the question of who will own the copyrights of the fashion designs. Will it be the fashion designer who hires or contracts with the AI device programmer? Will it be the programmer? Or will it be the AI device itself? Designers invest a lot of talent, time, and finances into designing and creating each article of clothing and accessory it releases to the public; yet, under the current copyright standards, designers will not likely be considered the authors of their creations. Ultimately, this Note makes policy proposals for future copyright legislation within the United States, particularly recommending that AI-generated and AI-assisted designs be copyrightable and owned by the designers who purchase the AI device

Resistance through style: Antonio and Tom of Finland

An article about political subtexts and strategies in Antonio's fashion illustrations and the political and cultural impact of Tom of Finland's drawings

Fashioning the Future Awards 2011

Established in 2008, Fashioning the Future aims to inspire curiosity, encourage the testing of ideas and create a platform for emerging thinkers, doers, designers and innovators. It facilitates interactions between people in education and business, steering a course towards a better future. The Fashioning the Future Awards were conceived by Dilys Williams as a means for CSF to share and exchange knowledge, skills and experience with others. So far, CSF has connected over 3000 students from a host of fashion institutions worldwide with global businesses and NGOs. Resources, developed from Dilys’ and CSF’s expertise, act as a guide to participants and outcomes are showcased through exhibition, catwalk and digital mediums. For the third edition of the Fashioning the Future Awards, and as part of the decade of biodiversity and partnering with UNCTAD, finalists were selected to be featured in an experimental multimedia exhibition and catwalk show supported by Canary Wharf and held in the imposing East Winter Gardens

Regimes of Temporality: China, Tibet and the Politics of Time in the Post-2008 Era

While the politics of time are an important dimension of Chinese state discourse about Tibet, it remains insufficiently explored in theoretical and practical terms. This article examines the written and visual discourses of Tibetan temporality across Chinese state media in the post-2008 era. It analyses how these media discourses attempt to construct a ‘regime of temporality’ in order to manage public opinion about Tibet and consolidate Chinese rule over the region. While the expansion of online technologies has allowed the state to consolidate its discourses about Tibet’s place within the People’s Republic of China (PRC), they have also provided Tibetans a limited but valuable space to challenge these official representations through counter readings of Tibet’s past, present and future. In doing so, this article contributes new insights on the production of state power over Tibet, online media practices in China, and the disruptive potential of social media as sites of Tibetan counter discourses