Globex: wave dynamics on a gently sloping laboraty beach

Abstract

As waves approach the shore, non-linearity in their dynamics becomes increasingly important. Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work, laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1:40. Here, very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on lower sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character, as it can now build up over a long period of time in a cross-shore extensive area. This second case of strong non-linearity is not well understood. This contribution serves to introduce the GLOBEX project, during which a high-resolution (in space and time) data set of the cross-shore evolution of short and infragravity waves was collected on a low-sloping (1:80) non-mobile laboratory beach for a range of wave conditions. Various other presentations at the conference will build on this introductory contribution